The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop AD Fender Repair and other questions?

I don't have the facilities at this time to address the moderate rust and repairs I found when the orange shag (glued w/liquid nails) was removed but I would like to straiten the drivers front fender before I start driving it. I assume that dismounting it and beating it into a sandbag might work but I've read the removing a fender is difficult. I had made some effort to drive the dent out with the wheel removed but it was hard to get a good swing. I also have access to a stud welder and could place rows of studs in the valleys for use with a slide hammer. In your opinion what would be the best way to get this out? Would also like to confirm that when I hear the words epoxy primer it refers to a two part product? Thanks in advance for a bit of your expertise.

Yes epoxy primers have two parts, the primer and the primer catalyst.

However, Eastwood sells a two part spray-can primer.

I noticed today when I was in NAPA that they also have 2-part epoxy primers. Might try there if you have one nearby.

Dennis

You have a lot of work to do on that fender, but fortunately you don't have any sharp lines/creases plus it can be made to look about like new with careful work. And no matter what anyone might tell you, there are different ways to fix it. Please remember metal has a memory. I realize that might sound odd, but it is true. If it were me, I'd remove the fender and sand all the paint off around the damaged areas and remove any dirt, etc on the back side. Then get a pick/finishing hammer and either a general use dolly or a hand held 8 pound hammer with one face made smooth. I would start working very carefully at the edges heading in to the center of the damage. Begin with the dent that is midway on your fender...the one above your hub. That will be the easiest one (obviously). When you get the feel for how the metal will work, then move to the front dent. Just remember to take your time and don't start in the center of any damage. I'm not a big fan of slide hammer work, but some people like it. If you need to shrink metal (and in this case you probably will), then you can use the pick part of the hammer and a sandbag or a soft pine board. I try to do that as little as possible, however. I'm a fan of getting the metal as close to original as possible before using any filler. Look on Google. You will probably find many ideas on straightening metal and maybe even some tutorials. I wouldn't waste my time with YouTube, but that's just me. Once you get started feel free to reach out to the folks here. Good luck.

Ouch. That ain't gonna just buff out.
That crease in the wheel well looks like a pucker caused by the brutal impact in the front of the fender.
That fender needs to come off.

I did body work in a restoration shop for years and could and would work out those dents and use a minimum of filler. A lot of guys in the rust belt would be happy to start with a fender that good. First of all , the pucker dent in the middle was caused by the impact in the front. If you some how reverse the impact in the front, the pucker dent in the middle will try to relax and stretch back to its original contour. You will need to bump it with a small 2 by 4 block and hammer as you work out the front damage. Best thing to do with the front dents would be to use a porta power and small block against the deepest back sides of the 2 front dents and push the dents out. If you don't have a portapower, a big hammer and block of wood might work. Do some finer messaging with a smaller hammer and dolly when the big dents are reversed. It might be a big help to remove the headlight bucket and fender brace to give you more access. Believe me, those rounded heavy gauge fenders message out nicely if you are patient and avoid just pounding out damage.

Thanks so much for the responses. I suspected it would probably need to come off but I do have a PortaPower and might try that first. It is good to know it's best not to start from the middle. I recently retired with 28 years as a custom sheet metal welder so I am no stranger to hammers or dollies, however in my trade most welds were planished flat. My only compound radius's were sink corners but I think I'm up to the task. If not I'll ask my son in law if he'll spend a couple lunch hours on it.

A "leave the fender on" method: You can..................take off headlight trim and headlight.........Use 2 x 4's and any other wood.............carved a little to match the area to be straightened...... turn/position tire/wheel as necessary to use as the fulcrum for popping/forcing the dents outward. Use your imagination to build wooden lever mandrels.

Then take tire off and finish it up with hammer taps. You won't get it perfect and depends on what you envision as acceptable. Removing fender as Carl says, and working as Jon and Geo describe, will result in full resto of fender. BUT that will then need painted. The 2 x 4 against tire may not.

If you use my method, you will have to do it under a "shade tree" and be prepared to have the autobody community Dox and Tweetter bomb you.

I have a fine shade tree in mind and will probably try this first. Perfection is not a priority just now though I would like to tackle it in the future. I sure do hate this color.

I agree with Geo55. I went to a two year trade school for autobody and was taught to try to reverse the sequence of damage.

There are many ways to accomplish this as our fellow ‘bolters have noted, but if it was me, I would leave the fender on and use your porta-power to push on the deepest part of the dent up front. Use a contoured 2x4 (match the fender) to soften the push. As you push, massage the rim of the dents with a hammer (light taps). Also massage the side dent in the process. During this process of pushing, you may have to jump from one place to another as the dents decrease. I would remove headlight bucket to gain better access (as bartamos suggested).

Good luck and post your results!