I have a new starter and solenoid on my Chevy L6 250 motor. I have 2 questions and appreciate any help. 1.) How do I wire the solenoid? What wire goes were? On the picture below there is a "P" marked near the left terminal and a "S" marked near the right terminal. 2.) Second question is what starter support bracket do I need to go between the starter and the hole in the block next to the dip stick? If anyone knows of a source, please let me know. Many thanks.
The large terminal at the top gets the battery cable from the positive (+) post, and a smaller wire (8 or 10 gauge) is also attached to the top terminal which supplies battery voltage to the ignition switch, ammeter, and/or the vehicle's fuse block. The "S" terminal gets the wire from the ignition switch "start" position. The "P" (sometimes labeled "I") terminal is used to supply full battery voltage to the coil of a point-type ignition coil during engine start. If you have a HEI ignition system, nothing is attached to that wire.
You probably don't need a support bracket, but if you want one, simply make it out of 1" wide 1/8" thick flat steel stock.
It would help to know what vehicle you're working with and if it's got an original equipment wiring harness. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
My car is a 1956 Chevy Belair. However I put in a 1968 Chevy L6 250 instead of the 235 6 cylinder. The wiring harness is for the stock 56 Chevy 235 motor.
I ASSUME (and you know what that makes you and me) that you're still running a point-type distributor. If so, wire it up just like the 235 that you removed. A 56 Bel Air had a ballast resistor on the firewall, and a key switched solenoid type starter. Wire the + terminal of the ignition ignition coil to the downstream side of the ballast resistor, and run a wire from the "P" terminal of the solenoid to the same coil terminal. The resistor will drop the running voltage to the coil to approximately 9V to prevent point burning and the bypass wire will provide full battery voltage during cranking for better cold starts.
In about 3-2-1 seconds, somebody who has read at least two Hot Rod Magazine articles will chime in with "Run an internal resistance coil and eliminate the ballast resistor." Ignore that advice! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
The "P" term. you refer to is probably a R term. It should have a wire from it to the pos. side of the coil. If your starter mounting bolts are straight across from each other, you need the brace from the rear of the starter to the block. If they are stagered it is not necessary.
George
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super In the Gallery Forum
