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BUSY BOLTERS Are you one? The Shop Area
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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,265 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Feb 2019 Posts: 99 Van | Van Joined: Feb 2019 Posts: 99 | Working on resealing oil leaks and a major leak was the timing cover. I removed it to discover a loose timing chain, but what really surprized me was the cam gear has nylon teeth! I was told the engine was original, or at least the heads were and to be sure and use lead additive because the valve seats were not hardend inserts but milled original heads. I was thinking that nylon gears were not introduced until the late 70's, and only GM until they figured out they were prone to breaking ect. Am I correct to think that the nylon gear means the engine is possibly a replacement? Nobody would replace a timing chain and use a nylon gearset?? How would I determine the valveseats are original without removing the heads themselves? Is there a serial number under the valve covers much like my old small block ford? This is my first SBC to ever get my hands on.
Thanks RK
1959 Apache swb stepside Atlanta Ga.
| | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 2,985 Crusty Old Sarge | Crusty Old Sarge Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 2,985 | The original timing gear would have nylon teeth, aftermarket gears would be steel. GM used nylon gears to reduce the noise on the timing chain, they started with those in the early V8's (60's) and continued for most of the Gen 1 small block run. Your engine should have stamped numbers on the block just in front of the passenger side head. That number will give you the build date and designation (car or truck).
Last edited by TUTS 59; 08/09/2021 4:04 PM.
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400"The Book of Thor"Read the story in the DITY1960 Chevrolet C10"A Family Heirloom"Follow the story in the DITY Gallery'59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting) Come Bleed or Blister, something has got to give!!! | Living life in the SLOW lane | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,208 Moderator, Electrical Bay | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,208 | I would not say you had to use hardened valve seats unless you plan on some pretty severe use (towing, racing, etc) or doing something like running it on natural gas or propane, but I can't say somebody won't show up to tell you that you do need them. If it were me, I wouldn't worry about it.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
| | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 | I'm pretty sure P.T. Barnum originated the "use lead additive" advice. It's a good way to transfer money from gullible people's pockets to the people who sell that stuff. Unless you're running some sort of super-dry fuel like LP gas of CNG, there's no reason whatsoever to worry about having hardened exhaust valve seats. Your engine is in a lot more danger from an incorrectly-installed seat coming adrift and wrecking it than any problems that might happen with erosion of the original seats. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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