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Joined: May 2017
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'Bolter
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Hello all,
Are the rivets holding drums to hub on front of 53 3100 nessary ? if so where can i find replacements ? I need to change out to new drums seems like it would be easy and faster to service brakes if i didnt need to pull hub. Thanks Aaron

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'Bolter
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It's not really necessary to replace the rivets. The hub will center the drum just like the rears. Just grind off the heads and punch them out.
Fred


1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes
1957 Bel Air Sport Coupe/Red/355/TH350/PS/Disc Brakes
2017 Silverado LT Single Cab SB/Black/5.3/6 Speed Trans
1947 Willys CJ2A w/F-Head engine
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'Bolter
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Thanks Fred, kinda what i was thinking, just wanted to get input from others, Aaron

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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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If you want to attach the drums to the hubs to keep them from slipping off during a tire change, just tap the rivet holes with a thread, and use a flathead machine screw countersunk even with the surface of the drum to hold it on. Some rear drums are attached to the hubs that way.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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'Bolter
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Sounds like a good idea, thanks Jerry

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Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
If you want to attach the drums to the hubs to keep them from slipping off during a tire change, just tap the rivet holes with a thread, and use a flathead machine screw countersunk even with the surface of the drum to hold it on.
If you do it this way, make sure you use anti-seize compound on the threads. The brake drums see the harshest environment which will rust those screws in solid. I would also use a higher grade torx head so it would have some beef when trying to remove them. You may want to use stainless.

Whatever you do, don’t use a slotted flathead machine screw. That will decrease you chance of removal.
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Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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'Bolter
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Here's a chart, you might be able to find actual rivets on Ebay.

When using a rivet you can peen them.

[img]https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...er/33756/filename/brake-rivets-chart.jpg[/img]

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Working around the hub when trying to do a front brake job is going to be incredibly frustrating. The wheel bearings are going to need to be repacked periodically, so doing that in conjunction with a brake job (which requires removing the hubs) makes sense to me. Since the current drums have been on there close to 70 years, how often do you plan on having to change them? Chances are the screws won't have to be removed again in your lifetime!
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
Since the current drums have been on there close to 70 years, how often do you plan on having to change them? Chances are the screws won't have to be removed again in your lifetime!
Jerry
Jerry, as always, you make a very good point. Still, it would’t hurt to add a little anti-seeze, just in case!


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum

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