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Fixing the old truck

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R
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R Offline
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I have a 1951 2ton with the 235 engine. It has been converted to 12volt. Truck was running several years ago got it this spring and wouldn't start. I went ahead and replaced the plugs, plug wires, rotor, cap, resistor, condensor and points since I had planned on doing this anyways. Still got no spark. Checking through everything I found out that the wire going from the coil to the distributor when the wire was connnected to the distributor I got 0volts, when I took the wire off the distributor then I got 12v on the wire. I have tried another coil that I know is good and it is a 12v coil and I got the same thing. What would cause this? I have spent many hours on this site looking through things to try and things to look at to trouble shoot this and I have tried about everything I can think of and I can not get this figured out. My guess is it has to be somthing simple because there is not a lot there. I have tried putting the old condensor and points back one and still nothing. The only thing I havent done is put back on all the old parts = plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, resistor, points and condensor and try that. I doubt that would do anything but at this point I am at a complete loss as to what is wrong and I am getting rather frustrated. Thanks for any help and if there is any other information needed that I forget I can provide.

Joined: Mar 2014
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J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,210
Offhand it sounds like the connector at the distributor is bad. Maybe broken and an open circuit or maybe broken and providing a ground through the body of the distributor. If you have a handheld electric meter, then put it on the circuit check selection (most of these make a little buzz sound when the circuit is complete). Disconnect the wire going from the coil to the distributor and touch one pole of the tester to where that wire connects and the other to the distributor body. You should hear nothing but if you do, there is your problem. If you hear nothing, then remove the distributor cap, touch one pole of the tester to where the wire connects and the other to where the condenser connects. If you hear a buzz, that's good (but you have another problem) and if you hear nothing that means that somehow that piece has broken and no connection is being made. There should be a hard plastic piece going through the body of the distributor and the connection piece is simply a screw going through that. Take a look below and you can see. That plastic piece is to insulate (from ground) the connection. Please let us know what you find.
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~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 28,675
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 28,675
Connect a temporary jumper wire from the big battery cable terminal at the starter to the upstream (ignition switch) side of the coil, and spin the starter. If the engine starts, find the dirty or loose connection at the back of the ignition switch or somewhere else upstream. A bad connection will show 12 volts in a "open circuit" situation, bit it won't flow enough current to make the coil work. Dirty contacts INSIDE the ignition switch can do the same thing.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 28,675
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
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Posts: 28,675
OK, I re-read your original post. Getting 0 volts at the distributor side of the coil- - - -WITH THE POINTS CLOSED- - - - - is normal since the non-moving point is grounded. That's what lets the primary current flow to ground and energize the coil. If you're getting 0 volts at the side terminal of the distributor or the downstream side of the coil with the points open, you have created an unintentional ground at the distributor connector or the moving point during your installation of the new points. Recheck everything you have done recently- - - -it's easy to get the primary circuit grounded between the distributor housing and the points so that opening the points doesn't interrupt the circuit.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 620
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 620
The only thing I noticed is you replaced the resistor. Is this the old type aftermarket item that keeps an AM radio from having static? Doc


Currently making 1954 3100 better than new and Genetics

Moderated by  Jon G, Rusty Rod 

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