Common pinion seal leak. The seal should be available at your local Napa or specialty aftermarket source. Remove the driveshaft, remove the large nut on the shaft, tap the flange off the shaft. It's probably a good time to drain the oil as most of it will run out anyway. Remove the seal, clean up the components, install the new seal with some sealant on the outer edge and some grease on the sealing surface. Reinstall the flange & nut. Torque the nut down, install the shaft, refill the diff. Fred
1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes 1957 Bel Air Sport Coupe/Red/355/TH350/PS/Disc Brakes 2017 Silverado LT Single Cab SB/Black/5.3/6 Speed Trans 1947 Willys CJ2A w/F-Head engine
That style of diff uses a crush sleeve between the two pinion bearings. You should check how much force it takes to turn the pinion shaft/yoke after the nut is tightened. If it more than spic you will burn the bearings out. All this information is in your shop manual.
Make sure that the there isn't lateral movement when grasp the yoke and give it a firm shake. That is what ruins seals. If it is loose, you will need to disassemble the rearend so that you can inspect the pinion bearings.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
I'd have the shop obtain the seal, I've had customer bring me either wrong or poor quality part the want installed. A good shop will know where to get good parts.
BC 1960 Chevy C10 driver 261 T5 4.10 dana 44 power loc 1949 GMC 250 project in waiting 1960 C60 pasture art Retired GM dealer tech. 1980 - 2022
I'd have the shop obtain the seal, I've had customer bring me either wrong or poor quality part the want installed. A good shop will know where to get good parts.
Its a GM service. They work on older cars. They had a 1934 in last week. They wanted me to get the right one. I guess there are different seals.
I've only done a very few pinion seal changes that didn't end up also involving changing at least one bearing, either immediately, or after only a few miles of running on the new seal. The reason a seal starts leaking is usually looseness in the bearing that allows the pinion flange to wobble and damage the seal surface. Getting the preload right on a used bearing can also be a challenge when retightening the pinion nut. Jerry
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The yoke/flange should not move in or out, you have another issue along with the leaking seal. Could be as simple as a loose pinion nut but probably has caused other damage.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
The yoke/flange should not move in or out, you have another issue along with the leaking seal. Could be as simple as a loose pinion nut but probably has caused other damage.
This the sheet the GM came up with that closely resembles my rear end. Where can I find all the gears and bearings seals to repair? Spider gears? They have it up in the air and the pumpkin disassembled.
Update on this has to be funny. GM fixed the pinion seal leak. But in their effort to inspect and ID the gears in the differential , the differential back cover leaks more than the PS from before. They put some kind of grey pematex like seal. I hope oreileys parts store will come up with the right 10 bolt round cover gasket tomorrow. This something I can do. They never ID the gears. Here is a paper they found that is similar to mine. Evidently , the side /spider gears have play in them.
If there was still oil oozing from the bottom of the housing that sealant won't stick. Generally for that stuff to work the surface has to be completely clean and dry and it has to set up for several hours before filling with oil. Fred
1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes 1957 Bel Air Sport Coupe/Red/355/TH350/PS/Disc Brakes 2017 Silverado LT Single Cab SB/Black/5.3/6 Speed Trans 1947 Willys CJ2A w/F-Head engine