NOTE: If you do have 100s of builds under your belt, this is probably not the right thread for you, unless you'd like to share your knowledge. In that case I would be very appreciative. I am a DIY wrench that likes to work on my vehicles when I can, but I don't do this professionally or rely on this work to make my living. If people like me bother you, this is probably not a good thread for you either.
Last edited by TradToolworks; 08/27/20216:39 PM. Reason: Add disclaimer for being a DIY wrench
I bought mine from a friend's father that was parting out a S 10 and I still not sure what I have 21 years later. When I post the numbers here I get an argument about what it is.
Ron, The Computer Greek I love therefore I am. 1954 3100 Chevy truck In the Gallery 2017 Buick Encore See more pix 1960 MGA Roadster Sold 7/18/2017
Dave told me to use vice grips on the stubborn bolt as I can put a helicoil in if needed. I was thinking to try my impact wrench on it, maybe that'll knock it free?
Don’t use an impact. Case is aluminum and bolt is steel. The case will break before the bolt will. Heat it with a propane torch and let it cool. If it still doesn’t budge, then cut it off flush with the case lid and remove the lid. Then drill it out. If case threads are damaged, you can easily tap threads into the case.
Looks like your well on your way to comfortably cruising along at 55 mph. I found it fairly simple to keep the hand brake, in its original location no less. I'll get some pictures and show you how if your interested.
Isn’t it a given we’re all handicapped before we even start wrenching on these old rusted girls? I hate rusted bolts. Ugh.
Truck restoration...behind the 8 ball...2 steps forward, 1 back, 2 forward, 2 back, what the?!
You get the idea! 😎
Good job on that T5 swap. I look forward to the day when I’m at that stage, as well.
1970 Chevrolet C10 Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny Follow the build in the Project Journal 1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually "Ole Red Girl" In the Stovebolt Gallery More pictures here 1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's Parts trucks- 1951 GMC 9300 | 1951-GMC 9430 | 1951- Chevrolet 1300
I was lucky all the way along the line. I found a guy that knew what he was doing and the parts that almost fell in my lap worked for what I was doing.
Ron, The Computer Greek I love therefore I am. 1954 3100 Chevy truck In the Gallery 2017 Buick Encore See more pix 1960 MGA Roadster Sold 7/18/2017
My truck is a '46 1/2 ton same as yours. I kept the original bell housing and used an adapter plate to mount the trans. The pedals are from a '46 1 1/2 ton. They mount to the bellhousing the same as the originals but the master cylinder is mounted to the frame.
My T5 and driveshaft are from an '83 S10. The adapter came from Hot Rod Works and mounts a 1982 thru 1992 T5 to a 1937 thru 1947 bell housing. I did have to cut the driveshaft down but that's easy, just ask the driveshaft shop what measurements they need and $150 later your down the road. I'm running a '58 1/2 ton rear end with a 3.38 gear so that's just like yours. Don't get too worked up about your overdrive ratio unless you've modernized your front suspension and brakes. I don't find it to be a usable gear until around 60 or 65 mph which is faster than I care to drive my original suspension.
Looks good! Your T5 had a reluctor wheel for the VSS driven speedometer. The machined boss for the VSS wheel is NOT designed for a plastic drive gear. They make an adapter (I think) that pretty much allows you to plug and play. Basically, I'm telling you that your new DRIVE GEAR will not simply "go right on" the same as if you had a main shaft that was made for a DRIVE GEAR.
Secondly, do not assume that the red DRIVE GEAR (has 9 teeth) in the package has the tooth count you need to make the speedo accurate. You will need to run the numbers through a calculator and see. You might need a BLUE 7 TOOTH DRIVE GEAR.
Modification I did that worked fine. This example with the Camaro T5 isn't exactly like your situation, but the idea of using foil tape to build up the shaft diameter might be useful. The small hole where the reluctor wheel ball bearing goes might be useful to hold the retainer clip, but might need to be drilled deeper.
The link I posted a few days ago HERE AGAIN shows a page on my website explaining how to count the "teeth" on a DRIVE GEAR. You and Dan are correct. That is a red DRIVE gear for the main shaft and it has 9 teeth. A blue DRIVE gear has 7 teeth. Chevy T5s came with a red or blue DRIVE GEAR. Nothing else. The link to TCI you posted is the same web page I use to calculate the correct number of teeth for the DRIVEN gear. You must know the rear tire diameter and the rear axle gear for your application.
Using the formula on the DRIVEN GEAR CALCULATOR page, your DRIVEN gear should be as follows: With a 9 tooth red DRIVE gear and a 3.38 axle 22.7 (23 teeth) for a 27" diameter rear tire 21.8 (22 teeth) for a 28" diameter rear tire 21.1 (21 teeth) for a 29" diameter rear tire
With a 7 tooth blue DRIVE gear and 3.38 axle 17.7 (18 teeth) for a 27" diameter rear tire 17.0 (17 teeth) for a 28" diameter rear tire 16.4 (16 teeth) for a 29" diameter rear tire
Now we go shopping for the DRIVEN GEAR and see if vendors actually sell what you need.
FORD T5 DRIVEN gears will NOT work in a Chevy T5!!!
THE GEAR BOX sells DRIVEN gears with 17 teeth through 24 teeth. $18 each LA SPEEDOMETER GEAR sells 17-22 teeth gears . $9.98 each
Using the calculations I posted, it looks like a RED DRIVE gear will work fine with a 235/75R15 rear tire (28.9" diameter) and 3.38 rear axle. You will need a 21 tooth DRIVEN gear. Do you have a DRIVEN gear housing?
Looks simple enough. I was not sure if the VSS boss was in the correct location to line up with the tail housing bullet port. Obviously they have it figured out. The Camaro main shaft has the boss at a different location and they make a relocation adapter clip that works well but $$$. Looks like you are well on your way to a successful modification and installation.
The .86 overdrive should work fine with the 3.38 ring and pinion. That 3.38 would not be ideal with a .73 overdrive. You would have to reach 70 MPH before you shift into 5th gear. The 3.38 will also make that steep first gear more useful. You will be floored how a T-5 wakes up a Stovebolt engine. Every time you shift you will be in the optimal powerband of the engine. No more lugging after every shift, then make the engine scream before the next shift so that it doesn't lug again.
Last edited by 52Carl; 08/01/20213:06 AM.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
The .86 overdrive should work fine with the 3.38 ring and pinion. That 3.38 would not be ideal with a .73 overdrive. You would have to reach 70 MPH before you shift into 5th gear. The 3.38 will also make that steep first gear more useful. You will be floored how a T-5 wakes up a Stovebolt engine. Every time you shift you will be in the optimal powerband of the engine. No more lugging after every shift, then make the engine scream before the next shift so that it doesn't lug again.
As you can see, 52Carl is a T5 convert. Yes, I agree Carl. It’s a great combination of gears and axle.
Pulled this 1995 S10 T5 (1352-216) out of the truck at the salvage yard today. It gave me a good fight, but I won. In my haste I bolted the shifter on backwards. Haha!
Try a green scotch pad and brake cleaner. I often use a large blade flat blade screwdriver to push the scotch pad into corners. It provides better psi than I can do with my thumb.
