Was just installing shocks today, and am having an issue with the rears. This is on my '51 1/2 ton chassis.
The rear shock, when fully expanded, only comes within ~1.5 inches of hitting the upper mounting point. Granted, this is a bare chassis (no engine installed yet), but even with my fat arse on the rear of the frame, the shock mount barely hits. The FAM Section 4, sheet 1.00 shows the lower rear shock mount below the spring, but turning it over would get the shock closer to meeting both mounts when fully extended. Even then, there'd be very little spring movement below the fully extended position when the truck is empty. Attached a couple pics.
The shocks were bought from RockAuto, and were advertised as correct for a 3100. Monroe #33049. I recall them matching up with what I removed (although those are long gone now).
Any comments or recommendations?
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
The lack of weight on the suspension is letting the springs travel WAY past their normal "rebound" position. Once the cab, bed, and other components are installed, the shocks will fit. If you want to install them now, place a small bottle jack on top of the frame, wrap a chain around the axle housing and over the jack, and use the jack to compress the spring. Then bolt the shock on. Repeat the process on the other side. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I suspect you're right. I can compress the springs to just make the shock seat in the upper mount by sitting on the rear corner of the frame. The bed doesn't weigh a whole lot more than I do, and it would be distributed to both sides.
I'm just concerned a little about the shocks going to full extension on a bump rebound.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
You'd be surprised how often that happens on lots ofl vehicles, not just stovebolt trucks. I wouldn't waste much time worrying about it! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I used a ratchet strap to compress the suspension enough to bolt the rear shocks on. It really didn't take much. Maybe a couple of inches.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Since I carry a bed full of tools and equipment to do some of my inspections, my 04 Ram 1500 squats a little in the rear, which makes the handling a bit squirrely at times. I'm considering adding a set of air bag overload springs, since upper shock mounts aren't really designed to handle weight-carrying loads. The air bags have upper brackets that bolt to the side of the frame rails for carrying the extra load. They also don't need to be aired up as high as air shocks to carry the same weight. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Yeah, I don't think I'd trust the spindly upper brackets with the loads that air shocks would add to them. When I got my truck, it already had a replacement upper shock bracket, AND some coil spring buckets(?) welded to the frame where the bump stops go. Those were the first things I cut off.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Since I carry a bed full of tools and equipment to do some of my inspections, my 04 Ram 1500 squats a little in the rear, which makes the handling a bit squirrely at times. I'm considering adding a set of air bag overload springs, since upper shock mounts aren't really designed to handle weight-carrying loads. The air bags have upper brackets that bolt to the side of the frame rails for carrying the extra load. They also don't need to be aired up as high as air shocks to carry the same weight. Jerry
I did this on my '98 C3500 as the previous owner had removed the overloads and put in a smaller spring pack to lower the vehicle. I wanted to tow and haul loads, so I put in a pair of supplemental Firestone air bags which helped keep the rear axle from slamming the frame over bumps. Came in really handy when hooking up the fifth wheel. Raised or lowered the truck as needed, then when I had the full load of the trailer, set the bags at 60 psi as the leveled out the rig and gave a nice ride. I eventually found the stock springs and overloads. I have yet to test them out on any kind of a heavy trailer, but I noticed I have a lot less sway.
