Wondered why noise occurred. Turns out upon disassembly the coil springs in the clutch disc were rubbing the heads of the flywheel attach bolts slightly. Flywheel was made too thin by turning or wrong clutch disc was installed. Hard to determine, everything had just been replaced , probably because being used as mouse hotel. Perhaps only. .030” or so of interference.
Hard to determine without complete disassembly.
Should be able to remove problem by grinding bolts slightly to area of full thickness, removing locking tabs, using lock title. still a pain.
I wonder what the mechanic told the owner when that noise appeared, perhaps the same person?
Ed
Last edited by EdPruss; 06/15/202111:06 PM.
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Is the clutch disc facing the right way? I always have to stop and think about this, but shouldn't the side we're looking at be facing the transmission?
Last edited by Jon G; 06/15/202110:01 PM.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Hmm, well I've seen probably 30 or more flywheels resurfaced and have never seen one overcut so much this happened. However if the disc is installed correctly, then I can only see too much cut off the surface of the flywheel, the wrong disc installed or the wrong bolts used as the problem. Maybe a thin washer as a spacer between the hub and the flywheel would be easier? Good luck.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Maybe a thin washer as a spacer between the hub and the flywheel would be easier.
That wouldn't affect how high the bolt heads stick above the flywheel surface.
Maybe taking a few thousandths off the mounting surface of the flywheel would work, but it would be easier to shave the bolt heads down a bit.
Originally Posted by 52Carl
Those bolt heads don't look right to me.
What's wrong with them?
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Is there a minimum thickness specification that a flywheel can be cut?
Originally Posted by klhansen
Maybe taking a few thousandths off the mounting surface of the flywheel would work, but it would be easier to shave the bolt heads down a bit.
I agree with Kevin. The flywheel is recessed where those springs ride so more clearance is needed. You could cut that recess deeper, but taking some off the bolt head seems to be much easier option.
Last edited by Phak1; 06/19/202112:01 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
So, did you get that "clutch noise" . . . . figured out . . . . . ?
The reason I'm asking - - - is that I now am using a B-W T 5 ('93 S-15 GMC , W/C ) in my car behind my 250 L-6 motor . I have changed over from a power glide to the T 5 .................. and at times my stock ( 10.5" clutch disc ) does make a noise . I've been running this "set - up" since March 2018 ................ and the noise drives me 'crazy' ................ but only happens part time . I used all new parts when doing this install : with the stock Z- bar linkage , and stock ' rebuilt T 5 tranny . Thanks for any info you may have ............