The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Swapping Integral Clutch/Brake Master Cylinder For A Newer/Safer Style

Hi Guys, I recently acquired a beautiful 1962 Chevrolet C60 that has the integral one piece clutch and brake master cylinder. I was wondering if there was a go to for a seperate clutch master and dual reservoir brake master with booster from something newer that would work. I would also like to eliminate the original hydro boost under the cab.

I'm not sure of the bore on the cylinders just yet.

I'm all for keeping things original and period correct but I make an exception when it comes to safety. I had a 1953 Ford that had a single reservoir which I upgraded to a 1965 mustang dual and was very happy that I did that when one of my lines leaked.

Hy FoodTrucker, welcome, I think your best option would be a Hydroboost system, you would have to install a power steering pump if you don't already have one and possibly locate the clutch master farther outboard than its present location. Plumbing of lines and valves of course. Hope that helps.

Sounds like a cool project.
Millions of cars had single master cylinders and they lasted decades without real problems as yours did but it's one of those things you'll always be wondering about. Whether you change to a dual or rebuild what you have, the key is not to have any weak links by making sure you address every single item in the brakes to make sure they are 100%. The lines especially with the age as you found out before. If anything is marginal, you can lose all brakes with a dual as you can with a single. Been there. Don't forget to get the parking brake up to 100% too and use it so it works in an emergency.
I'm sure someone will jump in that has done the same truck and ironed out the wrinkles already.

LMC trucks has a complete unit for your purpose , consists of a new brake master , power booster and separate clutch master with all hardware needed
for the price of only about $ 450.

John

Is that kit for the 1/2 ton or 2-ton?

Mike B

Thanks for the suggestions so far.

I will look into the hydroboost system, so far seems they are used with disc/drum masters where mine is setup is drum/drum.

Is there not enough vacuum produced to run a conventional vacuum brake booster for trucks this size?

Seems the LMC unit is for the 1/2 ton trucks.

The clutch and bracketry should be the same and to the best of my knowledge there is only 2 bore sizes in the Brake master , I have a one ton and I installed the larger bore. I did not install this kit as I find my truck stops just fine with the stock brakes .
I suspect if you go to the website you'll get all the info you'll need .
I'm sure the brake booster in itself will make a significant difference .

John

After looking at my notes from years back I find that it was the clutch slave cyl. with 2 bore sizes , the masters were al 1 1/8 and on the CMV site it sated the same masters wee used into the mid sixty's on trucks up to c 60 .
Do what your comfortable with as brakes can come in handy at times .

John

The original Hydrovac on your C60 was vacuum, so you should be fine with a newer booster.

Mike B

Make sure the MC bore is the same size for the new dual pot as your original single pot...you need the larger diameter to have enough volume to get all of the wheel cylinders to make contact.

Mike B

Update: I ended up rebuilding my entire brake system with new lines, hoses, wheel cylinders, master cylinder and a rebuild of my hydrovac.

Unfortunately, my hydrovac had some bore defects and is leaking brake fluid past the seals again.

I am now planning on replacing it with a hydroboost system as user 3B suggested. I have sourced a rebuilt hydroboost unit and PS pump. The hydroboost unit is the newer style found in 1980's and up GM trucks.

Can anybody suggest a dual master cylinder to work with a hydroboost and my brake system?

My original master cylinder is a 1.125" bore.

I have Wagner type F dual front wheel cylinders. 1.125" bore

The rear is a Twinplex dual wheel cylinder set up. 1.5" bore