The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Stopping My 1959 STOCK Chevy 3100 Truck

I have completed the restoration on my 1959 Chevy 3100 Truck, to this point. I am looking at adequate stopping power and am wondering if adding disc brakes make a significant difference in stopping power. Is power disc brakes the way to go or just continue with stock brakes as I live in the country, drive two lane roads with little traffic and have a 235 6 cyl engine.? Cost for parts appears to be north of $800 for a complete kit, including bearings, lines, discs, MC...is it worth it?

I can’t speak to how much improvement you’d see with the power disc setup. But for the driving you do and the speeds you’re talking...I definitely think the stock setup is “adequate.”

They don't give more "power". They do make it easier to push the pedal and are better in wet conditions and do not fade from heat very much. You won't stop any faster normally. Not worth it in your case. Won't hurt anything if you have the money. The tapered roller bearings are WAY cheaper to replace than the old ball bearings. So when the bearings need replaced, it's cheaper to by the front roller bearing kit.

Stopping power with drum brakes has everything to do with the shoes matching the contour of the drums.
If the drums have been turned and the shoes have not been arced to match, you will have poor braking power.

My 58 3100 has stock drum brakes and master cylinder and no problem stopping. Just make sure all the lines (rubber and steel) along with the wheel cylinders and master cylinder are in good shape and you won't have any trouble. My truck has a 350 V-8 fuel injected with automatic overdrive. No problems stopping it.

Just be aware the brakes can fade if you drove through some water, and they don't get rid of heat as quickly as disc brakes will. But for normal driving, I'm not worried about the brakes.

If you need all new parts to repair the drum brake system, money would be better spent to install front discs with a power booster and dual master cylinder. I have owned vehicles with both systems and installed many of each. Overall the disc brake system is far superior.
Fred

You can leave longer skid marks with the disc brake system. Once the tires start to lock up, it doesn't matter how efficient the braking system is- - - - -the traction between the tires and the road determines stopping distance. Unless you're planning to haul full gross weight down steep grades on a regular basis, the original brakes should be more than adequate for practically all of the driving conditions you have described.
Jerry

Thanks for the feedback from each of you. I have enjoyed the information I have obtained through Stovebolt and its members. My 1959 3100 and I just enjoy puttzing along thinking of the late 50's and early 60's being a teenager in my 50 Chevy truck. Now all I need to accomplish it fixing the leak on the overdrive lockout shaft, on another thread.

Pre-68 Dave hit it on the head. If you have trouble finding somebody who can contour your shoes (and this is common today), you can just replace the drums and shoes at the same time. New drums and new shoes will be made at the right contour or if the shoes are off it will be very slightly and this will adjust itself as you drive pretty quickly. If your drum brakes are in good nick, they'll stop you just fine. One other suggestion: the last master cylinder I bought came from Rock Auto and was sold under the Cardone name. It was made in the USA...even the rubber boot was marked made in the USA. If you need a new one, you might consider this as an option. The last wheel cylinders I bought were also from Rock Auto and were made in the USA, but I can't remember the name those carried. I did some study on this after receiving the master cylinder and learned there is one private company in the USA still making master cylinders, wheel cylinders and other cast parts...or there was at that time. I suspect Cardone is buying from them and packaging in their boxes. This was the one:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3251646&cc=1487426&jsn=415

Contouring the linings to the drums is a pretty simple do it your self job- - - -no fancy equipment needed- - - -Find some 60 or 80 grit sandpaper made for a body shop "air file" and glue a strip to the inside of the brake drum with the grit facing inward. If you use a water-soluble glue like original Elmer's white glue, it comes off easily with some hot water. Scuff the brake shoes inside the drum until the contour of the lining matches the drum. "Rinse and repeat" for all eight linings, remove the sandpaper from the drum, and clean up the mess. The brakes should really impress you with their stopping ability!
Jerry

Thanks for the info Jon G.

Thanks for the info Jon G.

Hotrod Lincoln, currently all stops well. I appreciate your simple idea to solve a problem.

Great answers all.

I took my rear drums to a local garage to have them turned. Don't tell OSHA but I get to watch. The mechanic showed where you can see the difference in material of original USA made drums and repop drums from China etc. It turns more consistent and has a clean finish. Repops turn somewhat dusty. The guy said the originals wear better. Time will tell but I would convert to disc brakes if the supply of good drums dried up.

I've found a similar situation when I bore Babbit connecting rods for insert bearings. Original equipment GM rods have much harder bearing material bonded to the big ends than reconditioned ones. The OEM bearing material will actually dull a high speed steel cutter bit, while the recon rods have much softer Babbit in them. I fit Perkins Diesel rod bearings to the spray-oiler rods, at a much lower cost than the dedicated conversion bearings that are getting very scarce and expensive.
Jerry