The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Suggest Avoiding "new" Distributors

I did a quick search and didn't see an active thread on this.

Rebuilt the 292 last year. The teardown indicated that the engine had turned over 200k+ so I opted to replace everything for new including distributor. Opted for points because I am stubborn and wanted to learn them inside and out. Among many things I purchased from Classic Parts was a brand new 292 distributor with vac advance for a stock replacement. Had everything tuned up great in September 2020 and started rolling the road.

I couldn't get more than 300miles on a points set though, which I attributed to the point physically slipping on the mounting plate (regardless of how tight I screwed them down). Every 2-3 weeks I was adjusting them again back to proper gap. Fast forward to May 2021. My final load of logs for the year and I had a real boggy engine with top end miss, indicative of points out of alignment. Pulled over, popped off the cap, turned the engine over to proper lobe orientation for point set, and found that I was out of usable adjustment. Limped 80mi home on out of spec points (with 4ton load) at 30-45mph while feathering the throttle. Ripped the top of the dizzy off the next day and found the culprit (see photos).

Whatever metal they used in manufacturing this dizzy is so beyond pathetic its frustrating. All the holes are wallowed out. As the hole size increased, the vac advance plate would shift backward on its pivot, closing the points gap, where I would then reset gap. This continued for 5k miles until there was no more adjustment left. Even the pin hole for the vacuum advance rod is shot. Further, some of the plastic components in this dizzy broke merely by me breathing on them too.

Grabbed the dizzy top plate from the original and swapped it over to the new dizzy base which solved the issue, but its just a band aid. Im still tracing a bad miss across all RPMs now. I HIGHLY advise steering well clear of any of these distributors from Classic Parts as they all seem to be from the same manufacturer. This particular one is WPS DST1612 from them. Pretty sad. The condition of this (which sees minimal wear) makes me second guess everything else (gear, shaft, etc etc).

It is really difficult to find quality parts nowadays. Thanks for the heads-up on their lack of quality. It makes me wonder about other companies. I like Classic Industries, but their stuff may be just as bad when it comes to distributors. I know HotRodLincoln mentioned it in one of your other threads, have you considered going HEI?

Often its better to rebuild the old parts then use these foreign after market parts. On the electrical parts like points, cond., & coils, get name brand parts from the local stores. I would not trust any of these HEI units sold at low prices. They know what their stuff is worth.
George.

There are two kinds of GM ignition parts- - - - -Delco-Remy and "WRONG". There are enough original equipment distributors on Ebay that I'd never even consider an offshore manufactured "clone". Get an OEM distributor and do whatever is necessary to put it in "as new" condition, using original equipment parts.

Or get an original equipment HEI.
Jerry

It is back on the table now and being researched. I have no desire to keep this dizzy in. If the top is wallowing and shaving, I no longer trust the drive gear or anything else. I have actually been disappointed by a couple of things I've bought from ClasssicParts now. Only took 14 months for the new rubbers I got to look as bad or worse than the ones I took off (gas filler neck grommet, gas filler next leaking fumes again, gas cap leaking fumes again, etc etc), and this girl is barn kept, away from weather and sun. Not a jab at CP, this just seems to be the shift across industry.


I only ran Delco or Blue Streak points/condenser and aside from having improper ballast resistor at first, never had issue. Im digging my bins now for all the old dizzy parts for a rebuild. I disassembled it to use it as an oil pump for priming the engine, just need to see if I can rebuild it as a stop gap solution now.


I would agree 100%. I was younger and much dumber a year ago, so it is a hard lesson learned on my end that I take full responsibility for. Being a year later, a year smarter, and a year more experienced, I am currently researching on HEI with plans to plop one in. I've done points now, I fully understand them, I can appreciate them for what they are, and im ready to move on.

If you buy Delco-Remy parts at your FLAPS, check the box over carefully with a strong magnifying glass!

New old stock from a quality vendor would be my suggestion on ignition parts.

Jon

That's why I specified "Delco-Remy", not AC Delco. They aren't the same by any means. There's no telling where AC Delco parts are made, or what quality (or lack of it) you're likely to get. Another long gone quality product is a new "Carter" fuel pump. At least they spell the name right on the box!
Jerry

The Standard/Blue Streak seem to be good quality. Thats what I put on my 72. I have some factory HEI units but I want to keep it original.
George

I would like to see vendors become more proactive in discontinuing products which are found to be junk by the consumer, but that is not as easy as it might seem.
Not everyone who gives them bad feedback knows what they are doing or what they are talking about.

Reaching out to sites like this one would be a big step in the right direction. I could personally provide any of the vendors a list of parts to either find a better source for manufacturing, or just flat out not offer the part at all.

Stuff like this is what led to the "Alternative Condenser Project." You can see that as a sticky note at the top of the electric bay section. The condensers you get today are all made in China...unless you rely on a BSA for transportation. Those are made in India. From what I've seen, none of them are worth having. I understand the economy of things, and I understand back in the 40s through 70s they were cheap and meant to be changed with each points change. They were never meant to last long, but they were at least accurate when you got them. Not any more. Condensers are used less and less every year, but it doesn't mean they have to be junk produced rapidly with no apparent quality control. The "Alternative Condenser" has been designed to last for around 300,000 operating hours and made with one of the highest quality capacitors you can buy today. I'll be only a memory by then, but your condenser doesn't need to be.

I have refrained from posting my comments about this thread but I feel this Vendor Bashing has gone on long enough. You got a bad part from a respected Vendor. I didn’t see anywhere that you had contacted this vendor about a refund or replacement. You didn’t even give them a chance to make it right. Your post suggesting not buying from this particular Vendor because they sell parts made off shore is based on your one experience. Our hobby relies on these Venders to supply us with parts that are no longer made in the USA except for a few specialty manufacturers. The Vendors cannot improve their product line without direct feedback from their customers. Bashing them on internet sites is counterproductive. JMO

One point on the fuel cap leaking fumes..............the fuel cap is VENTED*. It’s suppose to leak fumes.


* As opposed to a modern cap that is unvented and the tank is vent through the charcoal canister.
Unvented cap on the old truck will create problems:

Like fuel starvation
Might even crush or deform the tank with vacuum as it starves the pump.

1. You do not say what year your motor is. ALWAYS provide that info.
2. The part number you gave IS NOT a Classic Trucks part number. Not saying you didn't get it from them.
3. The part is sold by many many many vendors, Ebay, Rockauto, etc. $75.
4. The part is made in China. A Delco reman would be a good idea.
5. Most of us have had good luck with Classic Truck Parts. Classic has two distributors for 292. years 63-70 and 71-74. Many of us do not use Classic Trucks for parts like that. Dizzy's can be purchased everywhere. At a local place where you can walk in a get a refund.
6. They have a no questions asked refund within 30 days. Even though they say electrical parts are excluded, you could have explained it's not an electrical issue and 90% of a distributor is mechanical. But you have past the window so your gripe rights against them are void.

I would contact Classic Parts. They are a good outfit. I think they might work with you on this.

Have seen the tanks suck in many times due to no vented cap on old rigs.
Also see it on rigs with EVAP canisters that plug with dirt.

I have used Classic Parts and have been satisfied with most parts I have received. I also agree with you that Classic Parts is a quality vender and without feedback it would appear everyone is happy, so why would they change.

Classic Parts appears to provides a spot (I never used it so I don’t know if it works) to give reviews on each item and in most cases, I don’t see any. We are our own worst enemy, when we don’t give negative feedback (or send them back) on parts that don’t fit properly or don’t function as intended. I for one, am guilty of not giving feedback so I have myself to blame for contributing to this issue.

It would be in all of our interest to provide both negative and positive feedback (just like we do for Amazon, eBay etc.), to help these vendors improve the product line, so we don’t have to experience the disappointment of inferior parts. JMHO

As far a complaints and vendors are concerned I always go right to the source and tell them when I have a problem. If more complain the more the vendors will complain to the factory. Jon, don't you make the "Alternative Condenser". Doc.

Apologies, I in no way meant to bash or trash the name, simply spread that word that distributors from them are not something to go for. I have reached out to classic parts with no reply as of yet and I did leave a review of the specific distributor mentioned but said review has not been populated on the web site for reasons unbeknownst to me. It was not an opinion review, just a factual one, and I don't expect CP to comp anything, I don't really want that, just want them to know the super low quality of the units.

Engine is a '64 and yes, the distributor was/is listed for this application during purchase. Part number is the one offered via CP, but from the box, not the website. CP is the vendor for said part. I went in knowing full well a possible lower quality part (tight budgets, etc), but a mere 5k to total failure could never have been imagined. I'm frustrated in the failure and quality of the product, not the supplier, and the lack of my feedback getting anywhere with the supplier pushed me to want to share.

Again, I did not mean for the thread to come off as such, but I can see where my side comment on rubbers may sound as such. This is more so a comment directed industry wide, across Ag, vehicles, and heavy equipment, seals and rubbers seemed to have tanked as of late, regardless of manufacturer, all from firsthand experience.

Yes I know there are better options out there. Yes most of these have been on the radar for a while. Farm finances govern everything though. Wish in one hand, spit in the other, see which one fills faster. All I wanted to do is caution others from possibly going down this road.

When i decicded to go HEI on my 235, I went to one off the local auto recyclers(aka wrecking yard). Found a car with a 250 in it.yanked the distributor and ingnotion leads from it,took it home made the mods to put it in the 235, made sure the cap was clean and crack free. Dropped it in , set the timing, 6-7 yrs later, no prolems. 50 bucks and my time...original,honest gm parts. If i wanted to go back to points, i have enough of those distributors to make 1 or 2 that will work. I too,am leary of alot of the "new" replacement parts and learned many years ago the value of recyling ussd stuff. Now there are somethings one has to buy new and it takes some research before buying. Also i buy alot of stuff thru anyone of the 3-4 local parts stores and usually can get what i want. Product support,warranty,cores etc are easier deal with locally. Plus the added bonus of building personal connections, i do better with that than someone one the other end of the phone i have never met.
Having read through a lot of post on this site, I see alot of people rely on Amazon, EBay etc for their parts,at times for very good reasons. Lets not forget about the local stores just down the road who can very capably us out. As been said on here before,get to know the best parts guy and he/ she will go the exrta mile. I also dont mind helping them learn something new.
As replacement parts,,,and quality of said replacement parts gets more and more questionable,its up to us to leg out the best choice for us,and figure out a workable alternative. Many on here do that, and its commendable.
Enough of my ramble.

With all due respect, Wouldn't "Suggest Avoiding ClassicParts Distributors", and "I in no way meant to bash or trash the name", be considered in literal contradiction of each other.
I do believe that you don't want to trash a vendor. I am guessing that you were hot under the collar when you started this thread, which is understandable.
Maybe you could change the title to something which better fits your situation with out mentioning a specific vendor by name.
I can find fault with parts from every parts suppliers out there. Parts don't fit, parts don't work, parts too expensive, ETC.
I bring these problems to light in here when I encounter them.
I just prefer not to call them out by name, even though I am tempted. I do steer people towards vendors who do have a good version of a part which other vendors do not carry.
My 2 cents. (Maybe an overcharge.)

I’m my venture with my 51, I have pitched good parts and bad parts from lots of vendors. I’ve only had problems with one vendor not making things right. I will not mention the vendor, simply just don’t use them anymore. In my quest for reliability and goals of long highway trips, I went with Tom Langdon’s mini HEI. I have absolutely no complaints at all. I am in no way worried about period correct or originality.

Why not just go with a factory OEM HEI. Too simple of an option?

I have rebuilt and upgraded original equipment stovebolt point-type distributors by boring out the top of the housing and installing a Torrington needle bearing, and adding a hardened steel sleeve to the distributor shaft. I remove the grease cup, spring, and plastic disc on the side of the housing, and replace it with a 1/8" pipe thread grease fitting. That procedure totally eliminates the shaft wobble and dwell variation that has been a problem since those distributors were new. It's also possible, but not really necessary, to add a bronze bushing at the bottom of the housing.
Jerry

Can you see this wobble-related dwell variation on the meter? And if so, how much needle bounce is considered normal vs problematic?

No, but it will show up clearly on an oscilloscope. It's also pretty informative to take the insulator block out of the side of a distributor and put a dial indicator plunger against the cam. There's usually a few thousandths of difference in the lobe lift from one high spot to another, which means the ignition timing varies a little from one cylinder to the next.
Jerry

My ‘235 distributor lobe has a .002” runout and you can see it when you time it. It vary’s the timing by a few degrees.

Glad to see you changed the title of your thread. We need every vendor we can get to help us restore our beloved trucks. The more vendors means more competition, helping to keep the cost down.

I use a caged Torrington needle bearing with a 9/16" inside diameter, and make a sleeve for the distributor shaft from air hardening drill rod, ground to a very close fit to the bearing rollers. The process of heating the sleeve for a shrink fit onto the shaft also hardens it. If a final adjustment for fitting purposed id needed, I use a tool post grinder on the sleeve. The result is a zero-wobble upper bearing that will last about three days past forever as long as it gets a small shot of grease once a year.
Jerry

HFfarms Have 4 HEI distributors made from v-6 GM distributors all are used parts run fine. Learned from my local junk-yard dogs how to find a live one. Take jumper cables for power turn it ..if it sounds like a popcorn popper is good,make it look like what you took out install time it , lot lot better !!! OK to have a spair with you,pick-up coil cable wears out ,so not bad to start with a new one !!

HFfarms Had a chat with my local junk-yard dog they still have older not electronic HEI.s so they are out there.

wrenchbender ret. I think your right on there ,better to trust good-used !!