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Joined: Jun 2002
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C
'Bolter
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I got the third fuel pump for my truck today.
Ordered a fuel pump, Carter M2118.
Picture showed the correct old school pump.
It showed up as modern style.
Still wrong.
Where do you all get ORIGINAL style pumps, not the new Carter units?

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T
Ex Hall Monitor
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VERY difficult to find. The Filling Station sells a pump that works and much more closely resembles the original pump. I put one on my 53 210. I forget the model number of the pump. https://store.fillingstation.com/detail/4677/Chevrolet_19521957_REPLACEMENT_FUEL_PUMP_NEW.html


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J
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You want the glass bowl type?


1951 3100
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Speedway also sells a pump that very closely looks like the original. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1953-1957-235-Chevy-6-Cylinder-Fuel-Pump,41743.html


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I have had success changing the glass bowl top from my old pump to a Carter M751 new pump. Only 6 screws involved. Not sure if it will work on your new pump. I have a 52 216 in my 49 3100.


Ed
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Curmudgeon
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Commercial rebuilding of the old pumps is almost history. It's easier for FLAPS to sell the new replacement pumps.
Less failure returns. If you want original, you may have to pay $$$ for a specialized pump rebuild service or
rebuild yourself however you need kits that are compatible if you plan to use today's Ethanol gasoline.
Even NOS 1970's Carter and AC pumps have diaphragms that may react with Ethanol and fail.
Ethanol safe kits are available for some AC pumps but there are none, as far as I know, available for Carter.


Below is a work-in-progress subject to errors:


Carter replacement pumps:

M751 = 1937-51, single action
M2118 = 1952-57, single action
M2430 = 1952-57, dual action

Chevrolet original pumps by AC:

AC 429 = 1937-51, single action, GM 1523089, glass fuel bowl

AC 9126 = 1942-51, dual action, GM 5591547

AC 9803 = 1942-52 (first design), single action, GM 5592626

AC 9832 = 1935-54 & 55 1st, single action, angle output, GM 5592627, glass fuel bowl
AC 9798 = 1935-54 & 55 1st, single action, angle output, GM 5592627

AC 9797 = 1952-54 (second design) & 1955 1st, dual action, GM 5592675


* Beginning 1952, the pressure increased by a 1/2 psi.
* On 1952 cars, the motor mounts changed to side mount. The pump in and out positions were changed to clear the mount.
* In 1952 the length of the cam arm changed.
* 1953 Service Bulletin says the current model fuel pump, 5592627, can be used on 1937-51 models. The fuel line has to be bent to fit.


"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
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C
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I found an Airtex 4149, which appears to be the pump I have on the truck.
Any feedback on these?
No glass bowl.

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Run far, run fast. That's another using an old picture but sending a newer style. I bought one for my 53 based on the picture and sent it back. Look at the Airtex 429. That is what The Filling Station sells and I put on my 53. It's not an exact replacement but works fine with the original plumbing and looks similar to the OEM pump. I found a pump on Speedway that looks exactly like the OEM pump and bought one. It's on the shelf for a spare. Speedway

Last edited by Tiny; 05/19/2021 12:06 PM.

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Pump rebuilding kits are best bought from a company called Then and Now Automotive. However, an electric fuel pump may be your best answer in the world we live in today. Since 1997 I've used this fuel pump and it works great. I actually keep an extra since these are small, very easy to install and not expensive. I also used the hole where the mechanical pump used to be to add a spin-on oil filter to the engine (shown below). Electric pump: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00496RE82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I prefer this pump over any others because it produces between 2 and 3.5 psi pressure and no matter what anyone else might tell you, that is all you need for the Chevy inline 6. In fact, more than that can cause overfilling problems in your carburetor (meaning flooding, running rich, etc). Mount this back where the line comes out of your fuel tank. Electric pumps were made to push, and not to pull.

Now you can see what I did with the old fuel pump mounting spot...
Attachments
plumbing oil 2.JPG (39.68 KB, 167 downloads)


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
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Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet.
The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion.
Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
Joined: Jan 2014
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Originally Posted by Jon G
Pump rebuilding kits are best bought from a company called Then and Now Automotive. However, an electric fuel pump may be your best answer in the world we live in today. Since 1997 I've used this fuel pump and it works great. I actually keep an extra since these are small, very easy to install and not expensive. I also used the hole where the mechanical pump used to be to add a spin-on oil filter to the engine (shown below). Electric pump: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00496RE82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I prefer this pump over any others because it produces between 2 and 3.5 psi pressure and no matter what anyone else might tell you, that is all you need for the Chevy inline 6. In fact, more than that can cause overfilling problems in your carburetor (meaning flooding, running rich, etc). Mount this back where the line comes out of your fuel tank. Electric pumps were made to push, and not to pull.

Now you can see what I did with the old fuel pump mounting spot...

Cool setup. Did you plumb that oil filter to the ports on the other side of the engine?


1951 3100
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Yes, I did. I posted it here maybe 3 or 4 years ago. I ran one line from the oil pump over the crankshaft and out and another from the outlet of the filter, back in, over the crank and to the spot where the oil pump tube normally connects. Then I made a new block-off plate out of 1/4" aluminum, epoxied an outer skin of brass to it and soldered the copper pipes to that. It all went together pretty nicely and has worked well.
Attachments
plumbing2-1.JPG (32.53 KB, 132 downloads)


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by Jon G
Yes, I did. I posted it here maybe 3 or 4 years ago. I ran one line from the oil pump over the crankshaft and out and another from the outlet of the filter, back in, over the crank and to the spot where the oil pump tube normally connects. Then I made a new block-off plate out of 1/4" aluminum, epoxied an outer skin of brass to it and soldered the copper pipes to that. It all went together pretty nicely and has worked well.

Oh gotcha. I was thinking you routed lines from the existing bypass ports on driver side and just used the fuel pump boss as a convenient place to mount a spin on bypass filter.

Last edited by JW51; 05/19/2021 5:12 PM.

1951 3100
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None of the today's new replacement pumps are going to look exactly like the original.
It's not economically practical for a large business to rebuild a pump that may have billions X billions X billions of operating cycles.
It costs too much to fix a part that's just completely worn out.
I happy to have a pump that fits well, installs well, pumps out between 3 an 4 PSI and lasts a long time.

If it is an original AC or Carter, there's usually a number stamped on the base, have a tag or a cast part number somewhere.
This is what you need to do research on for on a 100% original truck (trailer queen).
Join AACA and post your question.

If you can't stand the look of a new replacement pump, spray paint it flat black so nobody can see it.

BTW, Spectra is a great Canadian company especial fuel tanks. I looked up the Spectra Premium SP1124 that Tiny mentioned.
The website says 5 to 8 psi. It okay from a quick few seconds of priming but if you plan to use it all the time, then you need add a pressure regulator.


"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
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There are a number of issues beside appearance regarding the fuel pumps being sold today. They use an old image then send you THIS. The inlet/outlet ports are too high requiring your fuel lines to be rerouted and the mounting flange is much thicker requiring longer bolts. If you're putting one on a PG car with the transmission cooler living in that space it's problematic. Not huge problems but not what they claim to be selling. The pump being sold by Speedway is an exact replacement in fit and appearance. If you're needing a pump or think you might I'd grab one or two before they go completely extinct.


Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet.
The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion.
Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
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Yep!

Summit as well but it says Carter. More mix-up from China.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRT-M2118


"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 150
C
'Bolter
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I'm on my FOURTH go round with online button pushers.
I order an AIRTEX 4149 and get a CARTER M2118 in the shiny new AIRTEX box.
Yes, it would physically fit on my engine.
Is it plug and play? No.
It is dimensionally incorrect.
I COULD modify the fuel lines to work, but if I wanted to modify my original truck it would have a big block, 6 speed, MII front end, 12 bolt, etc...

Last edited by Crowbar65; 06/18/2021 6:53 PM.
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Like I said above The Filling Station sells a pump that is close in appearance and, while not exact dimensionally, close enough no modification is necessary, or at least wasn't on my 53. Speedway sold me one (after installing the one from TFS) that I put on my shelf for a spare that is appearance and dimensionally exact to the original.


Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet.
The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion.
Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.

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