I have a 63 c10 with sm 420 4 speed What will I need to modify to put in the 283. I have seen I can use the same motor mounts with out using the metal parts that mounted to my 230? I’m hoping to use the same frame mount perches , but will this cause distributor intergpference with firewall? I will be getting a 283 radiator Thanks for any helpful tips Kevin
You are correct. Same motor mounts but without the engine brackets. Same engine to frame perches are used. Tall rocker covers are problematic for firewall clearance from what I’ve read. So use shorter if possible. An HEI distributor will fit but it’s tight near the firewall. I have a 283 awaiting some parts. I will convert the draft tube to a PCV system, so I’ll use aftermarket rocker covers. You could move the engine perches slightly forward on the frame rail but then your bell will move forward too. That would require modifying or relocating your bell support crossmember as well as lengthening your drive shaft.
I had a 1963 C10 that came stock with the 283 SBC. Clearance was no issue. As Lugnutz stated, engine mounts are the same. I currently have a 1962 that I installed a 327 SBC in after removing a 1967 250 I6.
Originally Posted by Lugnutz
I have a 283 awaiting some parts. I will convert the draft tube to a PCV system, so I’ll use aftermarket rocker covers.
No need to replace the valve covers. Here's how I converted mine to use a PCV using the Road Draft tube hole. You should already have the breather tube at the front of the intake manifold, so you should be good there. Next, get a freeze plug that will fit in the road draft tube hole at the back of the block. Next, cut a hole in it to match a regular PCV grommet that would go into a valve cover, Install the grommet in the freeze plug. Test fit the PCV valve in the grommet. Make sure it slides in easily. You might have to adjust the size of the hole in the freeze plug if it's too tight. Once it's mounted in the block, it's difficult to change things. Once you know that the fit is good, you can mount the freeze plug in the block with the grommet installed.
Once you have installed the freeze plug, you can install the PCV and run the lines to the intake. I used hard lines, but rubber hose will work just fine. Make sure you get the correct PCV that is sized for a V8. I originally used one for the I6 I took out. That was a mistake. Not enough draw and I was getting back pressure that was blowing oil spray out the breather.
I've included a few photos to illustrate what I did. I hope that helps.
"You should already have the breather tube at the front of the intake manifold, so you should be good there."
These show the Filler/Breather Tube I was talking about. Also the engine once it was installed to show that Clearance is not an issue for the V8 in a 60-66 series truck.
There are kits also, to convert draft tube to PCV. The DIY mentioned is good if wish to fab a little.
I haven't purchased the new Valve Covers yet, but I wanted to be able to go back to the original stamped "Chevrolet" script valve covers. That's why I went with the method above. I had been using newer style valve covers and routed the PCV from them. I'm trying to go with an original 283 look, even though I am running a 1963 327 in the truck. ( I know, 327's were not a factory option in these trucks until 1966. )
Doing the freeze plug trick at the back of the block can cause increased oil consumption, especially with a high mileage engine with some blow by, just like what can happen when trying to do the same modification in a stovebolt six by replacing the road draft tube with a PCV fitted to a freeze plug. There's a reason the factory guys chose to locate the PCV several inches above the block vent port on both engines. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Jerry, I haven't had an issue with it since I went to the PCV that was listed for the V8 instead of the one meant for the I6. However, I just rebuilt this engine 3 1/2 years ago, so it's a low mileage engine.
I did just pick up the valve covers I wanted today. I scored! They only cost me $25.
I've got a set of the original equipment Corvette script finned aluminum valve covers- - - -but somebody has butchered one of them with a hole for a PCV grommet. I think somebody that's a little better than me with a TIG torch could probably patch it with a minimum of distortion and the damage to the script wouldn't be terribly obvious. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
If you use valve covers that do not have a [provision for the PCV you wil have to fabricate a baffle on the bottom side of the valve cover where you intend to put the PCV. Make sure you select a place in the rocker arm chamber is clear of the baffle and PCV. The '63 to 66 small block V8's that had a fitting in the rear portion of the block for the PCV hose had a baffle can that extended into the lifter chamber so the hose could not suck oil into the PCV. Any time I encounter a '64 or later V8 that still has the original PCV system I grab it, pretty hand to have on hand when needed for a PCV conversion.
Unless you're going for a "period-correct" look, valve covers from a 327 or 350 with the rubber grommet and the splash baffle will bolt right on. They're sort of angular instead of rounded, but the bolt pattern will be the same. Pre-1959 283 valve covers and 55-57 265 covers have a different bolt spacing on the exhaust manifold side of the head, and no provision for vents or grommets. jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
A 283ci has a “device” in the lifter valley that keeps the draft tube from picking oil. I have one. It’s really dirty and crusty.
The dome piece with a nipple and a long bolt is an adapter that replaces the draft tube. You connect a PCV inline to manifold vacuum. Available from vendors like TRUCK and CAR SHOP.
A simpler, and much less expensive option would be to plug off the port at the back of the block with a freeze plug, and use later model valve covers with baffles and grommets for a more modern PCV system. Just because the earlier model vent system with the pushrod valley baffle can and the road draft tube hole is there is no reason it has to be used. Air flows into the engine through one valve cover with a vented oil filler cap, flows down into the crankcase, and exits the engine through the PCV valve inserted into the grommet in the other valve cover. Simple and efficient, and all the parts are available at the local FLAPS- - - - -no scarce and expensive adapters involved! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
