I raised this issue sometime ago but am now to decision time. I have a '95 lt1 from a Buick Roadmaster sitting in my '50 3100. It is coupled to a 4L60E tranny...same car. All accessories came with the 118,000 mile unit. I know the history...it should be a solid engine and tranny. My dilemma-I have NO knowledge about engine electronics...I'm from the age of points, plugs and condenser. Take a screwdriver to adjust your carb, etc. So why did I buy it...sounded like the thing to do at the time! I know I'll have to purchase new wiring,(electronic)...I have the original, however, it was cut from the firewall area when removed...yeah not good. In addition, if I was to convert the engine over to a carb, I would be looking at upwards of a thousand bucks to do so. Then I still have the issue of a electronic tranny. I want to use my original speedo. The conversion of that isn't cheap. If I find a good small block, more than likely it will need a complete overhaul. It probably won't have all the accessories with it. I could possibly trade trannies, (700R4). I suspect some of you fellow "stovebolters" have found yourselves in the same situation. I'm open to all suggestions...snide or otherwise!!!
Recently did the same engine/tranny swap to an el camino. There's a company on ebay that sells wiring harness and computer. Made it simple, basically plug and play.
A stand alone wiring harness is in order and they are available for your combo. There are speedometer conversion modules available so you can run the original speedo. I was coming up in the crossover from carb to efi time frame and I know them both. I will say that I cannot stand a carburetor. My 51 has a 60 model 235 and I have efi on it. So nice to start the truck in single digit temperatures and just drive off!
Dont bother with the LT. If your goin that far just get a cheap LS fully assembled and with all accessories and harness and ecu from the wrecking yard. Add a fuel pump and do some wiring and enjoy. Tons of info online to modify a stock silverado engine harness to run in anything. Way better overall outcome in my opinion. I use mine as a daily basically. Wouldn’t change a thing.
Find a running 350 with a 700r4. Carburetor, No computer. Do a compression test on motor, and check for oil leaks, then buy one. Sell the other. A carb guy, like me and you, don't need the headache. Lots of folks will say the wiring and EFI is no big deal. It is a big deal. Modifying a harness, speedo conversions, ecu......nope. Don't dwell on the speedometer. Forget about that. You don't make decisions because of a speedometer.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
You can plug a holley harness in and run power and ground and fire it up if you dont want to mod a harness. Its not a big deal really. Its a bigger deal putting a 350 in instead of the stock engine. Just put it all back to stock if you want the easiest simple things. Ive converted a few carb guys and now they laugh at how easy it really is. Wiring and efi is no big deal......if your willing to learn something. If your brain is at full capacity then just stay factory stock haha.
You might need a harness, maybe a little programming, like getting rid of the VATS. Maybe get rid of unnecessary stuff like the EGR, etc. LT1 harness. or More LT1 stuff. I went that route and through these guys for my TPI and have been very happy.
Do you really need a speedo? GPS will tell you how fast your going. In fact, you can get a GPS driven speedometer if you so wish. Except for the harness, stick with stock components so if anything breaks, a trip to the FLAPS will get you what you need.
Just look what it looks like. Looks like Alien took over the engine bay. Awful. Some kinna non old school nonsense solenoid gas squirter. Operated by bytes and stuff. Who would do that to a 50 chevy? No one in your neighborhood will talk to you. UG-A-LEE. Letting HAL decide when to shift, "no Dave, I will shift when I'm ready, Dave"
Get rid of VATS? Is there a shot for that? I think I have it.
GPS speedometer? really? What happened to "if people pass you, you are going too slow...if you pass people, you are going to fast" DUH!
It's a crazy world in my mind out there. Glad to have helped.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Barnfind49...would you please expound on the requirements to get the efi engine and tranny running/working? Items needed and ballpark costs?
Cost all depends on your skill level and what junkyards get for prices. Just for reference I have a $400 5.3 that I bought complete sitting on a pallet at my local junkyard. Came fully dressed with the harness and ecu still plugged in. I put the stock 3spd trans on the back of it with stock GM parts and added a $100 fuel pump. It cost me $100 to turn off the anti theft (VATS) in the ecu and it started and ran and drove and has been ever since i put it in. Never 1 issue with it starting or running. Put about 12k on it so far. Only thing i did was put plugs in it because they had 150k on them and the gaps were like .040 and i had a extra set from the race car. Still has stock wires and all accessories except ac compressor which is new. Drove it 50 miles back and forth to work monday and today 70mph down I-91 in overdrive with 2 fingers on the wheel cruisin listening to the radio. Only other costs i can think of to make it work were some gauge fittings for to adapt stock guages, i put Camaro manifolds on it to fit between frame and thats all i can think of. Its all stock parts besides that. So it can be done super cheap. Ive done a bunch of these swaps from mild to wild and expensive to dirt cheap. Mine was done dirt cheap on purpose....because i can.
In every test I've ever seen carbs make more power much to the dismay of the EFI guys usually doing the test. You have to be able to tune them and let physics take it from there. It's not a big difference and to each his own. 53, 3100, 292, 12 port cross flow, 6-71, 2/Quick Fuel 650 DP, 5 stage dry sump, Electromotive Tec 200s direct fire ignition. JMHO.
A "computer friend" on another forum regularly drives from an altitude of about 500 feet to over 11,000. Great excuse (maybe the only one other than smog emissions) for efi. Not that I cannot make a carburetor do as well (or better), but would have to change metering rods twice, and I am lazy.
As far as the speedometer is concerned, a few years ago, I changed transmissions and the linkage was in the way of the speedometer drive cable. Bought a kit with a small sensor that is attached to the drive shaft, which is sensed by an adjustable box with a cable to the original speedometer. It is more accurate now than it ever was.
And like Mick, every test I ever personally conducted, a carburetor got more power and better economy than efi. Just cannot get the carb to compete with the efi for emissions.
But your vehicle, your call.
Jon.
Good carburetion is fuelish hot air The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify. If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes! The Carburetor Shop
Back in the summer of 1962, I was a high school student who knew everything about everything- - - -including fuel systems. I made the mistake of venting to a Rochester field engineer at the Memphis GM training center about the rumor that Chevy was about to discontinue the fuel injection they had been running on the Corvette and a few other small block engines. He shared a few facts with me on that subject- - - - - -
1. The only place the injection would outperform a carburetor was at wide open throttle. 2. It cost GM more to make the system than they could sell it for- - - -they lost money on every one they made. 3. Most importantly- - - -and this is a direct quote- - - -"If every car on the road today was equipped with the best fuel injection we know how to build, and someone came up with carburetors in their current stage of development, it would be hailed as a major advance in fuel system technology!"
Of course, that was before the days of closed loop electronic fuel injection and computers. Things are a bit more sophisticated these days! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
carbking...do you have further info on the "kit with a small sensor attached to the driveshaft?"
I have one on my car, but so long ago, don't remember the name. Sorry.
Jon.
Good carburetion is fuelish hot air The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify. If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes! The Carburetor Shop
A "computer friend" on another forum regularly drives from an altitude of about 500 feet to over 11,000. Great excuse (maybe the only one other than smog emissions) for efi. Not that I cannot make a carburetor do as well (or better), but would have to change metering rods twice, and I am lazy.
As far as the speedometer is concerned, a few years ago, I changed transmissions and the linkage was in the way of the speedometer drive cable. Bought a kit with a small sensor that is attached to the drive shaft, which is sensed by an adjustable box with a cable to the original speedometer. It is more accurate now than it ever was.
And like Mick, every test I ever personally conducted, a carburetor got more power and better economy than efi. Just cannot get the carb to compete with the efi for emissions.
Regardless of where you all stand on the topic, a lot was to be learned from your different views.