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BUSY BOLTERS Are you one? The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
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| | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,282 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Feb 2018 Posts: 166 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2018 Posts: 166 | 1950 Chevy truck doors - I've been block sanding my doors and the leading edge of my doors is showing up as a low spot. I've added some filler but when I add enough to bring them up the edge starts to appear fat (thick). I've hammered on the edge a bit but I'm having trouble getting the edge to budge. Its a pretty strong area since its triple thickness (wrap around from the outer skin plus the inside panel). I'm using a 16" block and I'm starting to wonder, maybe this block is just too long? Maybe I'm over obsessing about the edge and I should just use a shorter sanding block so the edge can kind of taper down from the center of the door? Not sure if I'm explaining this well but has anyone else found the door edges to be stubbornly low? Thank you, | | | | Joined: Feb 2021 Posts: 147 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2021 Posts: 147 | Unless your door edges are really beat up, I think, take extra time to get the best looking taper (not going to be perfect). I'm spending countless hours filling and sanding to avoid any wavy action. The top of the door and bottom curvature is straight and I use as a reference....but still a big pain in the B.
54 Chevy 3100 Deluxe 3 speed on column. Keeping original as possible but changed to 12 volt system. JB Weld..."I put that stuff on everything"
| | | | Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 916 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 916 | I use those sanding blocks as well, and have obtained excellent results᠁and I’m only a newbie at it!
~ Dave 1950 Chevrolet 3600 3/4-ton with 261 engine & T5 Transmission | | |
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