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Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 36
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'Bolter
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So my truck is a 1956 3100 and the engine is an older 216 ('52 or so. Block code: BKCA590624). It originally had a 235 in it. I need to replace my fuel lines and I'm wondering if the replacement set for the '56 will match right up to the fuel pump on the older 216? The existing lines have been cut and spliced in several places over the years and I'm not sure if it's from the engine swap years ago or what. I'm assuming I need to order the '56 model year set because of the bends being made for the actual body, but I'm also not going to cut the new lines to get it to fit if the fuel pump is in a slightly different place on the block of the older engine. Anyone know if the older 216 fuel pump is in the same spot as a later 235?

Last edited by polarbeard; 05/06/2021 3:19 PM.

~ Cameron
1956 3100 Task Force
Follow the build in the DITY
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D
'Bolter
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As an alternative, get yourself a roll or a suitable piece of 5/16 Nicopp tubing, a basic flairing tool and some fittings. The Nicopp is used by some of the OEMs for fuel and brake lines, bends nicely so you can shape it to fit your application, and it is not as hard as the steel line so it double flairs using a basic hand flairing tool.


Mike
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J
'Bolter
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Some first hand experience:

1) I did NOT have a good experience with a pre-built set for my 51 truck with a 62 engine. I was able to make the pump to carb piece work with some creative bending. There are too many variables with pump inlet angles and different trucks of different years.

2) You can buy pre-flared lengths of the NiCopp tube. It does bend beautifully, but the flare fittings are some kind of black material and I’ve had a devil of a time with leaks. Source your own fittings if you go the NiCopp route.

3) I’ve had good luck with the “regular” (some sort of coated steel?) pre-flared stuff my local Napa carries. It’s a little tougher to bend than the NiCopp, but leaks have not been an issue. I was too lazy to acquire a tool and learn how to double flare. Someday I will, but this was a nice “easy button” so I could rebuild my quickly rebuild fuel system and move on to other things.


1951 3100
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by JW51
I was too lazy to acquire a tool and learn how to double flare. Someday I will, but this was a nice “easy button” so I could rebuild my quickly rebuild fuel system and move on to other things.

Great tool to have. If you'er lucky the pipe you bent wrong for the left side will fit the right!


BC
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Ex Hall Monitor
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There are basically two fuel pumps. One with the inlet/outlet ports straight across and one with them on an angle. Both will fit your engine. Whichever way your line set runs will work if you have the matching fuel pump.


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Sir Searchalot
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1. A kit for 56 will fit the frame. I use pre flared lengths form FLAPS instead of kits.
2. The last bit of line from frame rail to pump inlet is rubber. So there is no issue there. You clamp hose to flared end of steel line and use a hose barb with clamp on pump inlet port. Filter before pump. None after.
3. From pump outlet, use a pre flared piece (if kit piece does not fit) and proper fittings to adapt at pump and carb. Rubber can actually be used there.

I know on several suggestions you say: thanks but I want to be original. You are not original with that motor, so you have to flex and adapt. No one can be so original as to cause themselves unnecessary headaches.

Joined: Sep 2020
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'Bolter
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Thanks everyone for the replies and input. I went ahead and ordered a pre bent set of steel fuel lines for a '56. Hopefully it will fit better than yours did JW51. Bartamos, you mentioned the last bit of fuel line is rubber to the fuel pump. That's how mine is now. I wasn't sure if the previous owner did that himself to make it fit or if it was just like that; which it seems to be. Again, thanks for the great information. This forum and it's supporters are such a wealth of information.


~ Cameron
1956 3100 Task Force
Follow the build in the DITY

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