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Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 395
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 395
I'm planning to rebuild the pivot area for the brake and clutch pedals on my advanced design era truck. Mine is badly worn and the pedal arms drag on the floor when pushed in. I was hoping to see a tech article on doing this rebuild, but didn't see anything. Looks challenging. Anyone done this? Advice?

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
B Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
I don't have an AD but it does not look challenging to me. It's one of those take it apart and see what it needs. Round bushings/tubes rotating on a round rod or tube is what I assume. If it's too far gone or out of your fabbing skills, maybe buy a donor..........OR
HERE is some of what you need.

Also maybe: click and click

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Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,509
J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,509
There could be a few reasons the pedal arms are dragging on the floor. Most common I think is they're out of adjustment (although this doesn't need to be done often). Each pedal is a two-piece affair and can be adjusted with a 5/8" wrench (outside the firewall...engine side). You'll see how the clutch and brake pedal rods connect with the swinging arms and it is all pretty self-explanatory. If your bushings are worn, they can be replaced. There is also a spring at one end which keeps them from wandering left/right.

If the whole she-bang has worn to the point that it needs to be rebuilt at the tube on which the bushings ride...well, anything is possible, but it is on the unlikely side of things. If you hold the swinging arms (you'll need to do this from under the cab) at the top where they attach to the pedal rods and try to rock them side to side in an arc, what happens? You ought not get much play at all doing this.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,333
K
'Bolter
'Bolter
K Offline
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,333
I did my bushings and found the shaft was not worn just the bushings .the new bushings i got were oversized and needed to be fitted l spent hours doing it by hand a socket and sandpaper .I tried a wheel cylinder hone and it did not work very well .There used to be two types of bushings oversized and stock size .the old ones were dimpled and the new ones were solid . Worked out in the end lots of elbow grease without proper reamer tool


1954 Canadian GMC 9300
"The Journey"
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5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,308
Make sure that your front cab supports aren't collapsed. Also check the condition of the rear cab mounts. A cab out of wack will cause the pedal shafts to rub the cab holes.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
B Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
Good point. Be sure the pivots/bell crank/bushings are actually loose. Rubbing can be caused by other factors, as Carl points out.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 395
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 395
Thanks guys. The mounts are rock solid and the pedal arms rubbed even when they weren't attached to anything. I need to pull the trans out, so I'll take a look at adjustment possibilities when I'm under there.

Joined: Mar 2014
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J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,509
That's very encouraging, Mark. Mounts are a possibility I almost mentioned, but it is down on the list (fortunately). If your mounts have deteriorated to that point a couple of other things will be large red flags, and I don't think there's any way you wouldn't have noticed them.

One suggestion: if you have the chance to take this to a coin-op car wash you might do so and clean as much down there as possible. Decades of migrating brake fluid and grease mixed with road dust can make this area messy. Another comment: the arms travel in a natural arc and the pedal rods are also bent into that same arc, so there is a "happy spot" those must travel in and it isn't all that forgiving. Recently I noticed my brake light was staying on and it turned out to be a bit of the new pedal seal I installed had become caught between the rod and the hole. Added to that, the return spring wasn't quite strong enough to pull the brake pedal back as sharply as it should, so I added an extra spring down there. That tube (or steel rod, basically) that your brake and clutch arms pivot on is one tough piece of metal...incredibly tougher than the bushings, so it isn't likely to have worn out. Good luck!


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 395
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 395
Good info. Thanks Jon

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,163
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,163
Originally Posted by Jon G
That tube (or steel rod, basically) that your brake and clutch arms pivot on is one tough piece of metal...incredibly tougher than the bushings, so it isn't likely to have worn out.
Agree, but if you get enough grit in there, they will wear some. My original had some definitely visible wear on it, so I swapped it for another one off a later frame I had that had some very slight wear marks. I just put in the pedal bushings that were advertised as undersized to compensate for worn shafts, but they were a good fit on the shaft that had maybe 2-3 thousandths wear (I didn't measure it.)
My pedals had worn the upper part of the holes where they go thru the firewall, but then my front cab mounts were basically non-existent. The arc-shaped pedal arms can only go on the straight arms with the bushings, because they have grooves in the mating parts where they bolt together.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.

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