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| | | Forums66 Topics128,179 Posts1,057,161 Members48,465 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2018 Posts: 395 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2018 Posts: 395 | I'm planning to rebuild the pivot area for the brake and clutch pedals on my advanced design era truck. Mine is badly worn and the pedal arms drag on the floor when pushed in. I was hoping to see a tech article on doing this rebuild, but didn't see anything. Looks challenging. Anyone done this? Advice? | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | I don't have an AD but it does not look challenging to me. It's one of those take it apart and see what it needs. Round bushings/tubes rotating on a round rod or tube is what I assume. If it's too far gone or out of your fabbing skills, maybe buy a donor..........OR HERE is some of what you need. Also maybe: click and clickGood chance for you to do a tip. Do what a professional photographer does, take many many pics, then choose the best for the tip.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,509 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,509 | There could be a few reasons the pedal arms are dragging on the floor. Most common I think is they're out of adjustment (although this doesn't need to be done often). Each pedal is a two-piece affair and can be adjusted with a 5/8" wrench (outside the firewall...engine side). You'll see how the clutch and brake pedal rods connect with the swinging arms and it is all pretty self-explanatory. If your bushings are worn, they can be replaced. There is also a spring at one end which keeps them from wandering left/right.
If the whole she-bang has worn to the point that it needs to be rebuilt at the tube on which the bushings ride...well, anything is possible, but it is on the unlikely side of things. If you hold the swinging arms (you'll need to do this from under the cab) at the top where they attach to the pedal rods and try to rock them side to side in an arc, what happens? You ought not get much play at all doing this.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 2,333 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 2,333 | I did my bushings and found the shaft was not worn just the bushings .the new bushings i got were oversized and needed to be fitted l spent hours doing it by hand a socket and sandpaper .I tried a wheel cylinder hone and it did not work very well .There used to be two types of bushings oversized and stock size .the old ones were dimpled and the new ones were solid . Worked out in the end lots of elbow grease without proper reamer tool | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,308 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,308 | Make sure that your front cab supports aren't collapsed. Also check the condition of the rear cab mounts. A cab out of wack will cause the pedal shafts to rub the cab holes.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | Good point. Be sure the pivots/bell crank/bushings are actually loose. Rubbing can be caused by other factors, as Carl points out.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: Feb 2018 Posts: 395 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2018 Posts: 395 | Thanks guys. The mounts are rock solid and the pedal arms rubbed even when they weren't attached to anything. I need to pull the trans out, so I'll take a look at adjustment possibilities when I'm under there. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,509 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,509 | That's very encouraging, Mark. Mounts are a possibility I almost mentioned, but it is down on the list (fortunately). If your mounts have deteriorated to that point a couple of other things will be large red flags, and I don't think there's any way you wouldn't have noticed them.
One suggestion: if you have the chance to take this to a coin-op car wash you might do so and clean as much down there as possible. Decades of migrating brake fluid and grease mixed with road dust can make this area messy. Another comment: the arms travel in a natural arc and the pedal rods are also bent into that same arc, so there is a "happy spot" those must travel in and it isn't all that forgiving. Recently I noticed my brake light was staying on and it turned out to be a bit of the new pedal seal I installed had become caught between the rod and the hole. Added to that, the return spring wasn't quite strong enough to pull the brake pedal back as sharply as it should, so I added an extra spring down there. That tube (or steel rod, basically) that your brake and clutch arms pivot on is one tough piece of metal...incredibly tougher than the bushings, so it isn't likely to have worn out. Good luck!
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2018 Posts: 395 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2018 Posts: 395 | | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,163 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,163 | That tube (or steel rod, basically) that your brake and clutch arms pivot on is one tough piece of metal...incredibly tougher than the bushings, so it isn't likely to have worn out. Agree, but if you get enough grit in there, they will wear some. My original had some definitely visible wear on it, so I swapped it for another one off a later frame I had that had some very slight wear marks. I just put in the pedal bushings that were advertised as undersized to compensate for worn shafts, but they were a good fit on the shaft that had maybe 2-3 thousandths wear (I didn't measure it.) My pedals had worn the upper part of the holes where they go thru the firewall, but then my front cab mounts were basically non-existent. The arc-shaped pedal arms can only go on the straight arms with the bushings, because they have grooves in the mating parts where they bolt together.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | |
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