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#1404851 04/05/2021 1:26 PM
Joined: Jan 2014
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J
'Bolter
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Might have found a pretty sweet deal on a “low pressure” 235. Running the block code on Tim’s site reveals it’s a 1951 235 that would have been fitted to a powerglide. It was allegedly rebuilt some years ago and but never installed. I’m not factoring that story into the purchase price, but it does seem to have been torn down and painted anyway.

Hypothetically, what all would it take to make this oddball thing work in an AD truck with a manual transmission? I think a guy has to remove the timing cover to make a front engine mount? What has to happen (if it’s even possible) at the tail end of the motor?

This is mostly just for curiosity. There’s about a 3% chance of me actually doing this. And I’m aware of the questionable wisdom of not just installing a full pressurized 235 instead.


1951 3100
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E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
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The rear mount is from the bell housing to the factory crossmember.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
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H
'Bolter
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From memory.....for what it's worth....

The front mount is a plate that bolts to the block. Replacing that plate requires removal of the timing cover, crank gear, and cam gear (probably easier to remove the cam, but also requires removal of the rocker cover, pushrod cover, rockers, pushrods, lifters, as well as distributor) and the oil pan has to come off as well for two final fasteners.

Or, as an alternate solution, and assuming you're not looking for a 100% factory install and the engine has an existing front blank plate, source a bellhousing for the rear mounts, square the motor up, and matchdrill the existing blank plate from the bottom. Use the largest bit that fits the hole to find center, the drop down to a smaller pilot bit and step the hole up to final size.

Naturally, swap your clutch and starter over.

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J
'Bolter
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Ok, that sounds like way more trouble than what I’d want. Thanks for all the replies.


1951 3100
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'Bolter
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JW 51 That isn't much trouble,assume you understand that 235 is from a big truck ?? No reason you can't do it. just be sure to block your pan so you don't drill into it ! Have a 235 dipper not a real powerhouse but OK to haul about 4 ton of white rock and spread on the driveway!!

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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JW51 : “ . . . it’s a 1951 235 that would have been fitted to a powerglide.”

Fixite7 : “JW 51 That isn't much trouble,assume you understand that 235 is from a big truck ??

If the 235 is an original from a 1951 Powerglide:

- change the front plate to a truck front plate

- change the sintered bronze bushing at the rear of the crankshaft to a special Powerglide-to-truck bushing

- use the truck clutch-housing and flywheel/pressure-plate/clutch-disc and throw-out /release-bearing

Readers: Please correct and add-to, as needed.

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S
'Bolter
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JW51: I just completed the install of the same engine (1951 235) in my 1953 3100 pu. It too was rumored to have been rebuilt . This project is not much different than swapping any other engine in. Bolting up a newly sourced bellhousing, flywheel and new clutch with the motor out of the truck was no problem. Drilling the holes for the front motor mount as outlined above was easy enough as there are detailed instructions in past posts here. I did remove the 4 speed tranny from the truck when pulling the engine which made removal and install of the motor easier. At the time I was engine shopping It was hard to find a good engine for a reasonable price locally. I gambled on this one as it came with an Offenhouser dual carbs and Fenton headers ,which I did not use but added value as sellable parts. My engine had good compression and ran good on my homemade run stand. I had many questions and challenges but the many generous members here will get you thru the rough spots. In summary I have a good running engine that was way cheaper than a rebuild and has hydraulic lifters. Parts swaps are compatible plus I am learning a ton of useful information that will hopefully give me another twenty years of service from an old friend.


1953 3100 Pu
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'Bolter
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tclederman On that 1951 235 , Chevrolet never put a powerglide on the 41 to53(???) 235 did they ?? Wouldn't have been enough gear box for the trucks those came in.I think you could use the 235 babbitt engine ,if it has the mount plate you can drill,otherwise gotta tear it all down (not easy). Mine in a 48 big truck is not very powerful. Don,t know if that powerglide would be a bolt-up,either. Correct as needed.

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F
'Bolter
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JW 51 I see you want that to be a stick,think you can do it if it has that plate for the front mount,then should be fairly simple !!

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T
Ex Hall Monitor
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The powerglide was introduced in 1950 on cars only. 50-52, while it was a two speed transmission, in Drive it started in high gear. If you wanted to start in Low you had to pull it into Low. In 53 it started in low in Drive. The cast iron PG is HEAVY if you ever have to move one. When i had the PG in my '53 rebuild they used a forklift to haul it around.

Last edited by Tiny; 04/13/2021 6:34 PM.

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'Bolter
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Swami 29 How are your hydraulic lifters doing ?? Do thay "Tick" very much?? Have heard of some fixes for them,seems like some wizard could find a way to use those. Mine are all solids so can't experiment on them !


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