Truck in question: 1946 Chevy 11/2 ton with a 2 ton front axle.
Can I run a standard tapered roller bearing and race (inner) with a tapered barrel bearing and race (outer) together in the same wheel hub? (front)
Does anyone have a source or part number for front wheel studs for a 1964 two ton Chevy?
Now the story for those who like to read: I've got about 25 miles on the recent build, all local miles. I promised my wife a road trip in "Old Blue". While performing a pre-trip safety check I broke a wheel stud. Which led me to noticing I have a bad inner wheel bearing race. I checked with all the local parts houses and none can look up anything for my truck because it's too old. I went thru the entire dorman catalog and no wheel studs from that manufacturer will work going off dimensions. So I stole a good wheel stud from a donor axle I have and installed it for now. I would like to replace all of them now for safety if I can find them. Others I removed from the donor are stretched. I was going to steal the wheel bearings too but they are all ball style and I saw that as a downgrade that I didn't want to make. Which gets us to two weeks later, our rescheduled roadtrip is a day away and I just received a new old stock front inner wheel bearing assembly from Ebay and to my surprise it has tapered rollers. Not barrels like I am replacing. So keeping assemblies matched, is it ok to run a tapered bearing on the inner with barrel bearings on the outer? Each with their correct race obviously.
everything i read and research say the need to be matched. the inner and outer. tapered to tapered, barrel to barrel and roller to roller. If you look on the timken site they even have each others matching partner in their catalog. and for sure read up on the torque needed. 5lbs or less for most tapered bearings. This is the best video.
as to your wheel studs. break out the calibers and check the dorman site. I needed longer ones but the knurl was off so I bought the longer ones with a larger knurl and just drilled to the larger hole size needed to match. Now your running a big bolt so basic dorman auto wheel stud catalog is probably not your world. I would check with more of a bigger truck catalog.
as to your wheel studs. break out the calibers and check the dorman site. I needed longer ones but the knurl was off so I bought the longer ones with a larger knurl and just drilled to the larger hole size needed to match. Now your running a big bolt so basic dorman auto wheel stud catalog is probably not your world. I would check with more of a bigger truck catalog.
Thanks for the reply. It seemed as though 9/16" was the kicker. They make tons (comparatively) of ½ andâ…"
Don't forget to check on 14MM thread studs- - - -they're virtually identical diameter to 9/16"- - - -just use the corresponding lug nut to the stud. There are a bunch of modern trucks like my Ram 1500 that run 14MM studs. You could even step up to 5/8" studs if you're willing to drill the hub to the right diameter to get the stud splines to swage into place properly.
Barrel-type wheel bearings are as obsolete as a whalebone corset- - - -use whatever tapered roller or ball bearings you can find. If you're planning to run the truck loaded to its max gross weight, or way overloaded like they were used when they were new, if might make enough of a difference to need a barrel-shaped roller, but I really doubt it! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Brian 46 chevy Don't recallof ever doing that ,mix bearings, but if you have no alternative I would try it carefully. Matched bearings and races to fit the hub shouldn't matter. Once assembled and turning free should work fine.
Brian 46 chevy One other thing,once you drive alittle feel your hub should be cool or barely warm from brake drum heat. If you notice on smooth road you can feel slight slack in the bearings thru the steering--then she'll run a long time !! Always like to feel the hubs ocasionally to watch for trouble.Learned on big gimmi's !!
I definitely like to feel my hubs after driving too. Trucks and trailers... like you said it can be your first alert to trouble. Well by sheer luck my second bearing arrived today and it is a barrel type so I cleaned it up, packed and installed it. After cleaning the nos bearing it was immaculate! So, my truck rides again! Wife and I are going to take a short cruise in it tomorrow then Sunday will be it's first long trip... possibly the farthest the truck has ever been driven in a day. Off to see my parents for Easter then home the same day! I know they'll get a kick out of seeing it run.
Got to love when a plan comes together. Glad it showed up right on time.
My son just rolled in from his two hour interstate trip home. First thing I did was feel the hubs as we just did same bearing packing last time he was here. Nice and cool as they should be.
So since I am not a machinist I will ask this question. Even though I won't be drilling out any stud holes, how do you set up to do the job with the required accuracy?
The accuracy your talking about can’t be accomplished without a custom fabricated jig but it can be removed by cutting the stud flush to the axle face, placing a center punch mark as close to center as possible and drilling it out with a hand drill.
However, you don’t need to drill it out entirely but just get the wall thickness down thin enough, so you can drive a sharpened punch between the stud and the axle and collapse the outside of the stud shell into the center of the hole. I then use a needle nose pliers (kind of like the old tin coffee can opener keys), wrapping the shell around the end of the needle nose pliers . As you twist the needle nose pliers, it pulls both sides of the stud shell, collapsing along the way.
One more tip, if you drill hole is that far off, you can take a die grinder (or a Dremmel) or even a round file with allot of elbow grease and thin out the fat side.
Last edited by Phak1; 04/04/20211:37 AM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
No special rig for me. I just enlarged the hole after pressing out old studs with a bigger drill bit and drill press. Then the ole Harbor freight press again to push in new ones. Thousands of miles later no issue.
I used a ball joint press I bought on Ebay and a 3/4" drive impact wrench to push 10 new studs into the rear axle flanges of my Ram 1500 about a year ago. I needed longer studs to install a set of wheels with a different offset and some spacers I made to get the wheels to clear the brake calipers. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Glad to hear that you got the "barrel" shaped or Hyatt bearings. New tapered Timken bearings have instructions stating that tapered and Hyatt bearings should not be mixed. It is okay to run the Hyatt bearings on one hub and tapered in another, but not Hyatt and tapered in the same hub.
