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I have a 1 1/2 ton chevy truck 1942 with a 1948 216ci in. I am recommissioning most of this bur I am slightly stalled with the carb. It has a Carter W1 on (much worse for wear). I also have a Carter YF 735, I know this is not a chevy number, I think it is International, in much better condition. It is fitted with idle jet of 11 2025 or 2029 hard to see and a metering rod 75/693 with a metering rod jet of 120/161.
I have tried to find out what the original jets would be but I am unable to find out. So any thoughts on whether these jets would be suitable or can anyone tell me the correct jet number required.

Thanks in advance
Rob

My first suggestion would be to find a rebuildable W1 because this is the carburetor that was made to work with your truck.
Here is a link to information (https://www.thecarburetorshop.com/CarterChevroletW1.htm)

You are asking information, from a Chevrolet truck forum, about an IHC carburetor.
I would find an IHC forum and ask the specific questions.
Try this. I found the attached picture and it also shows the website below.

Jon's website (https://www.thecarburetorshop.com/TruckkitsI.htm#TkitIHC) lists the YF735s as used on a 220 CI engine which is slightly larger that your 216.
I don't know for certain if this carburetor will work well on your 216 engine. If I had no other option, I would try it out.
Considerations:
Throttle linkage fit.
Throttle base fit to manifold.
Vacuum advance for distributor.
Air cleaner fit.

The Carter YF 964S (manual choke) or YF 965S (auto choke) would be my picks in a perfect world. These were designed to complement the 216 made from 1937 to 1952, and like the other YF carburetors, I like their design. However, as pointed out above, the YF735S was made for a relatively same-size engine. Both engines were OHV and both had similar manifold designs. I'd be inclined to clean it well, put a kit in it and give it a whirl. Good luck!

11-202S Low Speed Jet
75-893 Metering rod
120-161 Metering rod jet

I found the above info on a Carter 1530A repair kit, for a YF 735S, on evil bay.
These kits are good for the metal parts but the gaskets are too hard and not usable with today's gasoline.
Which brings up a good point, if you plan to rebuilt the YF, buy a new/fresh repair kit that is Ethanol tolerant.

A big Thank you to Bouymaker giving me information on the engine size difference which seems negligible. Other considerations linkage seems ok, base ok, vacuum advance same air cleaner fit but it has a lip around the top which I can file off so no problem just needs a rebuild kit.

Thanks Jon G for more encouragement much needed .

Bouymaker 2nd reply...Second lot of info is exactly what I have been searching for, it shows that only the metering rod is different so im gonna give this a try plus try and find a 75-893 metering rod as this should make it as good as possible.
Am I right in thinking that my metering rod 75-693 is a richer mixture than a 75-893.

Rob

75-693 is the correct rod number.

You might consider an investment in Shell Oil

Jon.

Hi Rob,
The 75-693 is the metering rod it should have, so I believe I'd start there first. A few things to keep in mind: we don't have the same gas as when this was designed. Today's gas isn't going to burn the same nor have the same btu rating and that's actually a notable factor. Running a bit richer with unleaded/ethanol gas is a good thing here. In Wales, I can't say because I don't know, but friends in England tell me they're being forced to use at least 10% ethanol-laced fuel. That metering rod is a stepped affair and if you want to make things more rich, you can adjust so that it sits a bit higher up off of the carburetor's floor...that is to say bend the metering rod arm to lift it up a bit. If you do this, you probably will see a change in the way it runs, but as I mentioned I think I'd start out just as that carburetor was designed.

Rob it's your carburetor to do with as you please but the supply of these old carburetors may dry up and become hard to find. Personally I would not modify it because there may be one of our International Harvester friends who really needs an original one on his truck. As Jon G mentioned, the YF 964S is a great carburetor for a 216. I would think it is historically correct (proper Carter Replacement) for your truck if you want to maintain originality. There are W1s still available as well.

I am going to be in the minority opinion on this thread (see my comment about Shell Oil )

If one does the math, comparing the IHC 735s to the original 574s Chevrolet carb, one will find:

High vacuum (cruise) the 735s is 22 percent richer!
Midrange the 735s is 35 percent richer!
WOT (wide open throttle) the 735s is 28 percent richer!

Some of the engine gurus can advise better than I, but my guess is that kind of richness is NOT good for your engine!

I am sure finding carburetors for USA-produced vehicles is not easy in Wales, but I would suggest patience is your friend! I would look for either an original 574s W-1 Carter or the 964s YF Carter; both of which were specifically designed for your engine.

I do not think you will have an issue in disposing of the 735s.

EDIT: Do you know, or can you identify your W-1, and what might be wrong. Every single part for the 483s or 574s W-1's are readily available. If the casting are good, the carb is fixable.

Jon.

Before you rebuild your carburetor, thoroughly check everything down stream.
Attached are horror story examples of what I ran into. I replaced it all.
I feel that most of this rust damage was due to Ethanol.
Gasoline filters are good for trapping the occasional particles from a gas station pump.
Don't waste a lot of time, money and effort on a carburetor if you plan to feed it dirty fuel.

Thanks to everyone for their input and information it is much appreciated, though I do seem to have stirred a bit of a hornets nest.

I think I may have to stick with the old carb which I think is a 483s or 454s W1 and a rebuild might be best.

Again many thanks to you all.

Rob

Gents, I have a 1940 1/2 ton pickup that has been fitted with a '55 model Blue Flame motor-235. I am gradually going through it rebuilding/repairing/tidying up, etc. and have now tackled the carburettor. It is a Rochester with what appears to be an automatic choke. The only numbers I can find are 9283 stamped on it. Would this have been the original carby or could it have had a carter or something else. There is a small metal tube at the rear/top, which goes into the intake manifold, just sitting in a hole in it. Should it be fitted to the manifold?
I wish to obtain a rebuild kit for the carby and sort out anything else that doesn't seem right.
Many thanks for your help in the past, Bob

It would have originally had a Rochester. From that number we can't say, but if you could attach a digital image we probably could tell.

Does the automatic choke housing have a threaded fitting that a piece of 1/4" tubing can slip into? If so, that tube is probably coming from a sheet metal fixture attached to the exhaust manifold, not the intake. Its purpose is to draw heated air (Not exhaust gas) from around the manifold to assist rhe choke in releasing as the engine warms up. Some manifolds (mostly V8's) had a tube that went all the way through the echaust manifold and drew air through, heating it as the exhausy flowed around the tube.
Jerry

This describes the setup pretty well. I have worked out that the carby is a type BC and have organised a rebuild kit for it. I am fitting a set of repro Fenton headers, hence the dismantling. I can now see that the little pipe actually was poked into a hole in the exhaust manifold, which means that gasses were leaking out around the pipe.
When I fit the headers, what would you recommend I do with this pipe? I live in the warmer area of Australia, summer temps can hit 48 degrees C, winter usually around 20.
Many thanks, Bob

Jerry, I now have the manifold apart & see what you mean about the metal band around the exhaust. I assume that the tube was welded/brazed into it. I think that I may be able to modify this band to fit the header and make it good. I also discovered that the exhaust manifold has a few severe cracks. so the exercise is timely. Thanks again for your help, Bob

I've just about finished mounting up the headers (after a bit of grinding to allow the bolts to fit), and am now wondering if I can remove the auto choke device off the carby & convert it to a manual operation?
Any help greatly appreciated as usual. Bob

My father, who was just about the wisest man I've ever met, as well as the best carburetor rebuilder, had a comment about automatic chokes- - - -"They're smarter than all drivers, and most mechanics!" A properly adjusted automatic choke KNOWS when the engine needs a richer mixture, and provides it at exactly the right time and amount. It never forgets to release itself, as long as you provide it with a little heat to tell it when the engine is warmed up sufficiently that it doesn't need the richer mixture. Wrapping a few turns of copper tubing around the exhaust pipe and plumbing the air that passes through it to the choke housing is a pretty foolproof method of providing that heat to the choke coil so it can release at the right time.
Jerry

I will second that in a heartbeat...especially the part about being smarter than I am. To me it is about like indoor plumbing. A very nice convenience. And I don't mind admitting I remember having to use an outhouse on nights when the temperature was single digits and the wind was howling so much I was sure it was going to blow the thing into the next county with me in it. Run the other end of that copper tubing back up inside your air cleaner and you'll have a nice sealed system, too.

The stove tube for the automatic choke goes from the carb to a little sheet metal plate arrangement on the exhaust manifold. If you feel underneath you will feel a screw holding it in place so you can see that it is sort of clamped around the exhaust manifold. The tube itself just goes through the little heat box through a hole in the top but It is not brazed into the manifold or exposed to direct exhaust. Just the heat from the manifold. This heat box clamp arrangement will not fit on the fentons so you will have to make up a heat chamber to work.

Now, not to be a party pooper with your fentons but if you are running a single carb on a stock intake, why would you give up the stock exhaust manifold and all the benefits that come with having the intake heated by the exhaust butterfly? Your motor will run better with the stock set up as opposed to the stock intake and fentons.

"Cracked exhaust manifold"

"Australia"

It just might have to do with hard to find original equipment parts, maybe?
Jerry

All good info gents & thanks.
1. The exhaust manifold had a couple of cracks and when it was removed, it fell into 3 pieces.
2. I was told by someone on the forum, that with the headers & a twin system, the sound was great. Nothing like being a 75 yo larrikin!
3. As I live in a pretty warm area of Australia, I rarely see temps below 5 C, but regularly see 30-45 C.
4. The idea of some copper pipe wrapped around the manifold sounds good to me, so that looks like the way I will go.

Jerry - we will have to agree to disagree on our opinion of automatic chokes.

One of my mentor's in learning carburetion about 60 years ago taught me that both Rolls-Royce and Ferrari used manual chokes.

Jon.

The only thing I choose to choke manually is a fried chicken drumstick!

Jerry

I choke them the way they were "born":

- manual choke on my 1954 235 truck engine with manual transmission

- automatic choke on my 1954 235 truck engine with Hydra-Matic/automatic transmission (it uses a "manifold heat stove" for heat)

I have not had any problems with either technique.

For those who like automatic chokes, here is an article I wrote on their history:

Automatic choke history

And here is a DIY article for fabricating a "heat stove" if needed:

Heat stove fabrication

Jon.

As usual, very nice, Jon

I've always had the manual choke on my carburetors. But I'm interested in how to set up an automatic choke system if I ever put on another carb. Any pictures of the copper tubing system to the manifold or exhaust as mentioned for a stock 235 one barrel Carter or Rochester?
Mark

Attached below is a photo of the heat-stove "plumbing" on a 1954 Hydra-Matic 235 engine.

It is very hard to see the "stove" because it is mounted near the exhaust manifold (which is under the intake manifold).

I could not find a photo of the heat stove assembly and associated tubing. Maybe Jon has photos?

Tim - no, I have no photos of a system on a car.

Remember, I REMOVE automatic chokes from everything I own, and replace them with the more reliable manual chokes!

Also, on my shop truck with dual quads, I have manual chokes on both that are tied together, as is the linkage on the carbs.

I tried to paint a "word picture" of the heat stove in my post above.

EDIT: For those interested, the Carter part number for the aftermarket heat stove is 10A-71. The stove, along with a length of tubing would have been included with the aftermarket Carter type YF carbs with automatic choke for Chevrolet. I just did a search on ebay for new old stock carbs, but the only one currently listed as new in the box did not show a picture of the heat stove. One might check ebay daily; another carb will eventually be listed.

Jon.

I remember selling and installing an aftermarket choke stove that involved drilling and tapping a 1/2" NPT hole in a manifold just above the exhaust pipe flange for installation. It was a loop of stainless steel tubing that was exposed to exhaust gas and included a filtered air nipple that was installed in the air cleaner and another tube to supply hot air to the choke housing. It worked pretty well, but it required a fair amount of labor time to install it correctly.
Jerry

Thanks for the picture Tim.

You are welcome, Mark

A photo of that Rochester carburetor in attached, below (provided by Chevs of the 40s).

I will add any photos that I find of the choke-stove and pipe/tube.

Here is some photos of the actual stove that clamps on the exhaust manifold. You can see the hole that the pipe pokes thru in the first photo.

Excellent, Phil

Thanks