The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Identifying carb model

Folks, 216 motor fitted in a 50 chev ute.

The carb I have for this is a rochester, want to make sure I order the right rebuild kit, is there any identifying marks on the carb for a model number, had a look and could not find much

Steve

Rochester identified their carbs with a foil tag attached to the top with one of the hold down screws. Very easily ripped or forgotten after a rebuild.

Some of the carbs were stamped in addition to the tag on the underside of the carb. I got lucky and mine was stamped. Its the four digit number on the right.

Good Luck!

Thanks,

As mine is leaking, I found someone wrecking their ute and grabbed the carb of the engine, been there a long time :), Going to soak it over night in rust convertor to see if any numbers come up on the bottom

If its a Roch. model B & is the original carb, the after market parts stores have one kit # that fits all of them up to about 1960.
George

Also I suggest not to put much faith in original brass floats
Every time the carb warms up and then cools down the brass float has to swell and shrink a tiny bit like a balloon
This expansion and contraction cold works the brass and makes it very brittle until a crack develops and it starts to suck in gas on every engine cool down cycle
The float slowly sinks and the carb starts to get flooding and gas leaking out but it happens gradually until you truck is stalling at red lights after working alright at high throttle.
The brass once brittle is quite useless, soldering it shut is a very temporary solution and leaves you a still unreliable carb for long road trips

New brass floats are available at NAPA for about a $20 and won’t let you down.
Save the old ones for a farm truck or wall art.
-s

With respect to 2 ManyTrucks, I must disagree on floats.

Any brass float should be always be tested.

BUT A 70 YEAR-OLD BRASS FLOAT MADE IN THE USA IS SUPERIOR TO THE ONES CURRENTLY PRODUCED ELSEWHERE, REGARDLESS OF PRICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I can buy the same float for a lot less than the $20. mentioned above; but would not consider giving these things away if I were paid to do so!

What is currently being used for solder on these new floats will deteriorate if EVER it is touched by ethanol within a few months. If the float never sees ethanol, it still will only last a year or so.

There are so many Rochester B's being replaced by Carters, it is very easy to acquire a supply of used floats for the Rochester B.

Jon.

Yeah it’s possible what I thought was an original float was already replacements

My last experience was chasing hair line cracks in the brass on several floats trying to find a good set, eventually had to give up as every carb float had one tank leaking
I did make a good float by swapping tanks but that heats up solder quite a bit and old solder hates getting melted without being replaced
Maybe that home fixed float will now last a new lifetime but I had to go back into my carburetor a few too many times for it now so I’m biased

The Napa float felt like a premium part to me however, seemed very well constructed but time will tell.

Also non of the floats I’m dealing with were ever USA made, my trucks are all Canadian and would have much larger temperature swings for half the year when it’s snow season
Many variables at play
-s

Phak 1

After 24hrs soaking, these numbers have appeared

I think those are just casting numbers. The actual model of the carb would be stamped into the bottom if they existed. I would suggest following Wrenchbenders advice and buy the universal kit.

Here is a link from Keith Hardy’s website that has allot of info specifically for Rochester type “B” carburetors, including rebuilding. [LINK]

Thanks,

Just ordered the master kit for the model B from them, its listed as the 1950-1951 application and looks identical to mine which is a 1950

https://carbkitsource.com/kits/mk0010a.html

Steve

Good! I hope it works out for you!