The Stovebolt Site Forums Project Journals Project Journals 1970 Chevy C10 - Grandpa’s Rebuild.

Winter...ugh. It's been -5 daytime, to -12°C overnight up here. But I am ready to start pulling wrenches in a clockwise fashion once again on this engine!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ctTWo1oXa27nnJnt8

BRRRRR... 86 here today. I try not to complain about the weather.

Comp cams 26918cs bee hive springs, spring seats and caps, retainers installed.

Engine block prepped and painted. Shiny stuff is (literally) good, clean fun.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/mkhEsWdVL6kx5vFh6

Next up, bottom end.

Lm7/LS Measurements over the last couple nights:

Reluctor wheels’ runout. Minimal. Well under spec.
Main journal clearance: .0015” (plastigauged)
Connecting rod clearance: .0015” (plastigauged).
Crankshaft mains’ runout: negligible/nonexistent.


Things are looking pretty good as I move forward here. Next up: Piston ring installation and insertion into the block. This reminds me; I need a new piston ring compressor. My old one fought me with the 261 in the 1 ton GMC.

Hey Fox;

Tres Magnifique!

Very schmexy, wanna do mine next?

Keep up the good work,
Steve

Thanks Steve.

Next post I will update hours. I think it’s somewhere up around 295 or so. I have been writing on the board each night I wrench, though. I am definitely not a quick engine assembler! However, things are still moving forward. My hands are very supple tonight after a bunch of oil soaking!

Crank in. Torqued and angle gauged. Pistons in. Torqued, I still have to crank them some degrees to be done them. The new piston ring compressor worked like a charm. What good fun tonight.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/pbyVXcwPveDj3UKL7

Well, I have gotten quite good at tearing this LS style engine apart. I had a few goof ups due to inattentiveness on my part. Time and a little extra $ gone, but hopefully it's good now. With the 1/2 to an hour I try to squeeze in when I can at night, my wife going back to work nursing, managing my guppies, I leave things 1/2 done frequently and come back to it. I am working distractedly at times, and you all know how that can go:

Here goes:

Piston rings: top were good, right side up, and gapped properly.
Same with the middle ring. Everything in place and ready to rock.
I was cleaning up stuff and was about to chuck the piston ring instructions. At the bottom, as I walked to the garbage can, I saw the little side note that said, "Ensure the oil scraper" ring is facing up at the tips. darn. I knew that 3 were good that way, as I was about to check one night, but left the shop and totally forgot to recheck. Out came all the pistons. Again. 3 of 8 were upside down. Fixed that hiccup and reinstalled. F. Pay attention, Fox.

Then...I realized I missed cleaning an oil galley passage and couldn't continue without double checking. So out everything came to clean it. Crank, everything. It was the vertical one from the base up to the cam/lifter passage. It was dirty and would have put gunk through the cam and lifters straight away. Grrr. F Pay attention, Fox.

So I began to reassemble.

Then, as I was dropping in the rear most crank cap, it slipped out of my hand and fell. Clink, clink. It hit the side of the block as it went. "For Fox Creek! Please be undamaged!" Nope. Huge gouge in the bearing. NFG bearing. Grrr! Good thing I'm self employed on this truck, right?! I'd have fired my butt, too! Of course, when I removed the cam thrust plate, it destroyed the plate seal, necessitating a new one of those. Frick.

Argh!! I stopped at my engine shop to ask about a bearing. I explained my story, showed him the bearing, and Jerry went to the back, got a brand new box, opened, and said, "10 thou under, right? Here." And gave me the bearing for the lower cap.Thanks to Jerry!

So, after taking the rig a ma roll way, and kicking myself in the pants, I am finally moving forward again.

Crank in again, pistons in again x3, Cam in, lifters in, oil pan, timing set, everything torqued to spec.

Next up, head prepped and ready to clamp down.

I'd better check stuff again before I start twisting one shot (don't screw it up) bolts.

Updated hours are:
Cab: 92
Frame: 87 (I count engine/tranny work here)
Doors: 53-
Front fenders- 34.5
Box-25
Hood/grille-11.5
Other- 2

Total: 305

Grrrr....

🦊🤬

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xBeuk9xZXXUfimpk6

The transmission is rebuilt though. 🤔😎😃 4wd converted to 2wd.

Eye candy

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yedwDJAdowKREBr28

That’s looks great!

What are you going to run for an intake manifold?

I’m keeping my 5.3 bone stock but don’t like the look of the stock intake. Can’t find a reasonably priced alternative. Looking for ideas.

I am going to run the stock manifold but I might try to shave all the ugly off it. From what I've read, the ls1 intake loses you power, the truck intake makes great torque and power, is "free", and performs as well as(or near) the ls6 intake which can run $$$. I'm trying the truck for now.

Heads are torqued down, coil packs re-loomed and brackets cleaned up and painted, plug wires cleaned, flywheel installed, and I spent tonight building a flywheel holding tool. I don’t see the point of buying a simple chunk of steel for near $60 in some cases when I flanged this up in about 30 minutes. Some of those junk ring gears I’ve chucked over the years would have sped me up, too. I had to build the teeth chunk by hand with my grinder because I didn’t have a junk ring gear kicking around.

I took a piece of angle iron and measured it for drill holes to bolt into the starter holes. I bolted it on so it sat flush against the flywheel. I clamped my little toothed chunk to the flywheel and I also had it butt up against the engine stand arm, then I welded that bugger on. It should definitely hold for the 240ft/lbs (IIRC) I’m about to unload on that crank snout. It will definitely be more solid than sticking a screwdriver in there and trying to achieve that amount of torque!

I had to build a balancer installer tool. I bought a chunk of M16 threaded rod and used nuts and washers, along with a piece of plate rounded off, a small pipe, and an old throw out bearing I had in the parts shed, to build it. It turned out well and pushed that dampener on like butter.

I like the old throwout bearing idea. Great recycling of old parts! Good job!

Tranny dummy mounted to engine as I await parts. Cab tarped outside on sawhorses, removed the drive shaft steady bearing as the shortened truck's shaft will only be about 4" long now. LS style manifolds tuck in nicely and require no frame modifications. As stated earlier, I used Dirty Dingo 73-87 adjustable sliders and installed original 73-87 clamshell engine mount/stands into my frame. Works well, so far. We will see if the starter clears that RH manifold. Engine and tranny sitting in rails awaiting parts for the fuel system, exhaust system and brake lines. Dang...I missed Christmas. 😎

I also surprised my wife for Christmas with something she has had her eye on for quite a while now. She hates pulling the trigger on decisions like this, so I did it for her and made it a present and put a note in her stocking! "Do you enjoy Led Zepplin?" RAMBLE ON! 1962 AMC Rambler American. How the heck will I pep that engine up? I might have to get the old gas axe out again to make room for an engine swap. She wants it to "scoot quietly" and surprise people. How about a turbo ls, love? 😳

Hours are on the board for next time. Man, they pile up.

Merry Christmas all!

Hey Fox;

The build is coming, looks good, keep up the good work!
Is there an HP rating on “scoot quietly” I would guess that about 350 HP should do it?

Best of the season to you and the family,
Steve

Thanks, same to you Steve. Your ole Chevy is looking pretty darn sharp too.

I don’t know. I’ve been researching and measuring; that Rambler engine bay is tiny...

I've been procrastinating updating things on here. Holidays were nice and the back to school transition was a little easier as we had to do online learning for a week.

As for the truck, I have actually been doing things. A lot of engine into the frame, out of the frame and then back in! I installed the ARP balancer Bolt for the LM7/LS but I haven't torqued it yet, because I want to finish the exhaust and fuel. I had to modify the tranny mount I had as my mount had a single bolt hole on the tranny, so I cut it out and fabbed up a new pedestal. You can't tell anything was done, but I have a little time in that bugger, too. My parts came in from summit and I've been "flat out like a lizard drinking water!"

Brake lines NAPA- front, middle and rear bent, cut, flared, installed and awaiting completion via hookup to my new booster/mc that's in a box.

Lm7 intake- fugly no more. I shaved it and plastic welded all the holes shut and moved the various ports to the rear. It was a learning curve and I am quite proficient now with that stuff. I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. I believe my method eliminates the "grapes" that I have seen some people create with their methods. Not finished as I need to smooth, prime/paint, but "done for now..."

I took some measurements and got a few short pieces bent(and long) to start building the exhaust system. I needed a 67° coming off the manifold and another bent piece for the H pipe that will run under the transmission tail. I mocked these in place and awaited my big order.

The order arrived about a week ago and I have done the following:

Frame cross member modified. I cut a 4" hole in the member to facilitate the installation on the 2.5" exhaust. I did this so I wouldn't have to snake under, then around the member and then up , over and around the bloody trailing arm. I then welded in a 4" heavy walled pipe in the hole. It turned out nice. Straight piped right out the back and I have a nice, big, juicy area if I ever want to add electric cutouts to this engine.

Next, I began mock up of the exhaust with the cats in place, and it seems the mufflers will sit nicely above the trailing arms.

In case you're wondering the parts list from summit was:
-ARP balancer bolt
- aluminum gas tank -EFI capable
- m/c and booster combo
-2.5" Borla XS Pro mufflers
- O2 sensors and weld in bungs
- knock sensors and harness
-water pump
- catalytic converters
-fuel sender
- gas cap set up


Slow, but things are still going forward!

Hour totals are sitting at 329. I have to check the board to see what allocated where but I know I jotted it up to 329 tonight. I think the frame is at 110 or something. The shop board knows! 🙄😉


🦊😎

I was able to get a little time in this afternoon as Everett was able to go to Grandma and Grandpa’s and play with his cousins. My wife was working, Eliza was napping, I did some chores like supper prep, laundry, dishes, and then I went out to the shop and got my H pipe tacked into place. No hours this evening; the shop needed a cleaning as I had stuff everywhere.

Next up, fuel tank is going in so I can mostly finish routing the exhaust. I won’t finish it out fully as I’m not exactly sure where the rear bumper/ fender sides will sit and I don’t want to have to cut stuff out in order to redo it.

Cab: 92
Frame/Chassis: 112
Doors: 53-
Front fenders- 34.5
Box-25
Hood/grille-11.5
Other- 2

Total: 330

You got a lot accomplished. That was a slick move routing the exhaust through the cross member, very nice work.

Nice work! I also like the route thru the crossmember! From your picture, the crossover pipe appears to be pretty close to the rear tranny seal. You may want to consider putting a heat shield there to limit the heat exposure.

Keep up the great work!

Last night’s work

Tonight I hit a snag that I was sort of expecting, but still didn't want to deal with. With running the 2.5" pipes through the cross member I knew I was going to be close to the trailing arms with the pipes and mufflers being straight. With everyday sort of driving it would clear and likely be fine, but I just couldn't sit easy without knowing just how close it would be if the truck were to bottom out the rear suspension completely. I had measured but it was difficult to get accurate measurements because of the rear springs and such. So, I blocked the rear frame, I pulled the rear springs out ( rediscovering how much I hate fighting rusted bolts, especially 1/2" buggers that fight the whole way until the VERY end and THEN twist off...), and then I bottomed out the rear end. Of course it hit, not a lot, but I'm not taking any chances. I began to plan out how to do this. I had simply ordered some pre-bent pieces of pipe to build my exhaust and had to figure out how I was going to use what I had left to raise the x member through pipe up about 2". I cut along the parallel in 2 180° pieces I had and then cleaned them up in preparation for welding them together to raise it up.

A few more hours in, but I think I will be in good shape. I am going to build the rest of the exhaust with the suspension compressed.

I think that your going about this the right way, if you bottom the rear suspension out now it should allow more than enough clearance at ride height. How much distance will you have between the mufflers and the bottom of the bed?

The mufflers will have plenty, 4-5 inches, but the pipe going over the axle tube will be tighter. In both cases, I am going to run a heat shield between them and the bed. I will be putting in wood, so I don't want any heat affecting it.

Tacked in place. Next I will do some cutting and figuring to get up and over the rear end and almost completely heading out the back. I’m not exactly sure what I want at the end yet.

A few ideas for paint...
I passed this on to family members to see what everybody’s thoughts/opinions were.

What do you think? The green is a little too “lime/Kawasaki green” and will be a dark olive 505 green as original. But here are the paint schemes I’m considering.
I have done some things in the meantime, but I have to clean shop before I post anymore info; it’s a disaster again!

Edit: I am also aware that the picture is a 71/72 and my truck is a 70. It was the clip art I had available that day so I used it. I will be using a 70 front end.

I like #3 the best. That said, I have always been partial to a center color scheme. My next choice, and a very close one at that is #4. That will be a great look also.

Steve

#2

I am partial to 3.
I like 4 as well.

My 2 cents, I'm leaning to #1 probably how it was originally, but with the customizing comes choice and I'd have to agree with Steve #3 would also look good on the C10.

After asking around (family, friends, kids at school, colleagues, Stovebolt) I think I've settled on #2. Not basic green, not as involved as the other 2, still killer! Numbers 2 & 3 were heavily favoured. I like them both, but I think I'll go with simpler over #3.

Thanks all!

In the meantime, I have been finalizing the exhaust system. I removed the manifolds and primed them and reinstalled. It is fully tacked in place the entire length to the last bends behind the tires. I’ll do those last when the bed is on. The hangers are in and oh boy do I like those. Good quality methinks and well priced, too. Walker style. I also installed a few v clamps along the length so I could remove the exhaust in chunks if needed. I did test this to be sure it worked! I am very happy with the outcome so far.

I have also bent a few lines running up to the MC on the brake system. I mocked up the steering shaft for clearance and slapped on the inners and core for reference. Not a whole lot of differences, but some stuff is getting done. Once the brakes are roughly plumbed in (I'm not sure where the e brake cables will run yet... puzzle truck video here I think! 😉😎), I will try to get the fuel lines plumbed and then turn attention to the radiator, shroud, and transmission lines to the rad.

Then wiring?

Tonight I prepped and primed the intake, as I had washed, sanded, and filled it a week ago. Looking good so far. I have a little sanding and touch up filling of microscopic filler pinholes, but it's going well.

PS- In addition, I also pulled the plugs out of the Rambler and dumped some oil and diesel down her holes to try to loosen her up. I let it sit for a couple weeks and then I tried to turn the crank bolt with a breaker bar. I could feel too much resistance so I stopped so I didn't twist off the crank bolt. Next, I ripped out the radiator so I can later build a good strong bar to grab the dampener and try to turn it. If no luck, I'll pull the head and see what's happening in there.

I also took its keys to the locksmith. I had a working glovebox key, an ignition partly removed but no key and 2 door locks with no keys. The glovebox key wouldn't open the trunk. So I figured if I got some keys made and one of them would open the trunk...right?

Nope. $80 down and still not in the trunk.

So I told my wife one day, "I'm gonna pick that lock."

"That's nice, dear. Good luck."

Everett was playing in the snow bank, my wife and daughter were taking a nap, so I grabbed all the paper clips in the drawer, a long Swiss Army knife flat blade attachment and went to town. After about 35 minutes of fiddling I began to get a feel of what tumblers were where. I grabbed another clip and began to bend and match it to previous clips I had made. I slid it in and could feel 3 very satisfying click, click, clicks...

Hold breath...

Turn...


POP!!!

Whoop whoop!

I stopped for the night and told Everett, "Let's go in for supper."

My wife asked, "Giving up already?"

"Nope. I got it."

"What?! That probably saved us a couple hundred bucks in labour and travel time!"

I'm happy to report that Jimmy Hoffa is not in the trunk and that there were some actually good things in the trunk: spare tire, jacks, spare MC, hub cap, a pile of old 77 Ferd truck parts (again!), and get this....

THE BLOODY KEYS FOR THE CAR!!


Did you see that coming?!

I didn't even hesitate to close the trunk lid and try the keys I found as I knew I already had a working, home made paper clip/knife combo thing a ma jig! 😉

What an adventure that was! 😎🦊

A little late weighing in on the color options, but have you considered #3 but reversed? with the color on the main part and a central darker stripe? I had a truck painted like that and it was pretty nice (for a Ferd ). #2 would look nice also.

I have to say I love the Rambler! I have always had a soft spot for AMC's. Of course living and growing up in Kenosha may have something to do with it.

Steve

Glad to have you back and posting, I was prepping the SAR team for action.

Report cards are coming due...🤪

I finally got a night without homework, my wife was working an evening, and the guppies went down to bed easily...wrenching time!

Tonight I finish prepping the intake and shot it in VHT gloss black. I also removed the exhaust manifolds off the heads so I could shoot them in VHT aluminum to match the heads.i also discovered that the RH pipe off the manifold is a real bear to remove.i assumed (insert assume joke here...) that since the LH side came off so easily, the right should be the same. Nope.I am debating modifying it at this point. I don’t think I will. To remove it easiest would be to block the transmission and pull that crossmember and drop the whole piece of exhaust. Hmmm....I don’t think I’m changing anything.

Anyways. Another issue I discovered is that my radiator shroud sits too low in relation to the LS fan. I’m chewing on these options:

Hacking up the original/ creating new mounts to make it mount. Pro- easy-ish. Con- ugly.

Build a new shroud out of 18 gauge steel. Pro- fit like a glove when done. Con- time, effort, will it clear the hood when closed properly?

Shaving the fan blades to fit inside the shroud. I think I’d need about 3/4” on all blades. Pro- easy, stock fit. Con- would shaving the blades cause cooling problems?

I’m going to run the original lm7 mechanical clutch fan. In Alberta we don’t get super hot summers or stupid crazy humidity and I think the mechanical fan will cool a warmed over LS of about 385 hp/torque.

Input here would be appreciated.

Here are a few pictures:

Have you thought about running electric fans. It would solve your problem and you would gain additional HP.

I don't know about trimming the fan blades to fit, there would probably be an issue with the balance. If you don't decide to run electric fans you may want it radius the bottom of the shroud the clear the blades. It wouldn't be visible from the top and would give you the clearance needed. After seeing your fabrication skills I'm sure you could come up with a bracket for the top that looks correct and fit properly.

Still debating fan shroud options. But in the meantime I installed the exhaust manifolds with new gaskets and torqued to spec. Next, I tackled the valley cover, knock sensors, and wiring harness for that. Then I cleaned the injectors (just blew them off as they worked fine beforehand), installed new injector o-rings, and installed the fuel rails. I had to create a new fuel pressure regulator vacuum line as the old GM one wouldn't snake that way and had a couple issues. I used some 3/16" brake line, flared it, slipped over the vac tubing tips, shrink wrapped them, and Bob's your uncle. It turned out very well. Finally, I bolted on the intake, torqued it, and I'm very pleased with how it's looking so far.

I also had a buddy come over and we had a brew and chat in the shop. We were discussing the truck and he asked, "What are you going to do with that steering wheel?"

I have the original green wheel mocked in place on the original column right now to help me visualize the brake lines to the MC, just so I don't have any interference issues.

"I was thinking of getting a 67/68 wheel, honestly," I replied. "I like the look of those. Original era. Stylish. Not ugly." I was wondering if he wanted to buy it or something.
"Oh man, I wouldn't do that."
"What? Why?" I asked.
"You're not going to use it?"
"No. I've always hated those style wheels. They're ugly as sin."
"I think that's terrible idea," he said. "Just think of all the hands in your family that have touched this wheel."

My jaw literally dropped. Ugh. What an unreal insight. I raised my brew to him. Needless to say that old, ugly, cracked wheel will be on this truck when it is completed. What a night.

Yep that steering wheel would stay in the Truck...