The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Hole filler suggestions, please.

My passenger side door went back together seamlessly. My driver's side door, however, has a few wallered-out holes.

I don't want to drill a new hole and patch the old one, and I'd rather not make the old holes larger, and use larger screws. Would something like one of these fillers work okay to make the hole 'narrow enough' to hold a screw? (I'd rather not use JB Weld in case I convert to power windows later, or have to remove the panel again at some point).

Those holes look like they're machine screw thread rather than sheet metal. What kind of screws came out of them. If they're machine screws then you could get a helicoil kit and put thread repair inserts in them. They'd be like new then. JB Weld or one of the other products wouldn't be my first choice, but you could probably use them by putting some in the hole, then smearing the screw with oil or vaseline and lightly screwing it in until the stuff sets up.

If they're just holes for sheet metal screws, and if you can reach around the back side with a dolly, Just flattening them with a hammer can make the sheet metal screws hold again.

Thank you for the information, klhansen! I'm just attaching my metal panels back to my doors (interior) so I can hang my doors.

They're clutch head screws (about 3/4" long at the shaft).

I can't get behind the panel to the back of the screw once the panel is on.

I take pictures and post from my phone as I go, and sometimes forget that not everyone has a cell phone or laptop to zoom with. My apologies! The pictures are about 4"-5" tall on my end. =)

Yep, Machine screw threads. Maybe 10-24 size, but take one to the hardware store and check with their screw gauge. A Helicoil kit will fix up any that are stripped out. But if the screws thread in and hold reasonably well, they're probably fine. It doesn't take much torque on the screws to hold a panel on.

Thank you, klhansen! Half of them hold, and half of them would sit and spin all day, and never catch. Hubby doesn't think there's enough to work with inside the door. I found these also, but I'm not sure if they'd work or not. I've not had the time to read into them

On the holes that were too large, I found matching nuts then used JB weld to attach to the backside of the damaged hole and held it in place with masking tape. When set remove the tape and viola you have a secure thread to bolt your panel to. Just put a small dab of JB weld on the nut, it does not take much to hold in place. Try to avid getting the JB in the thread section. If you do just run a thread chaser in it to clean it out after it dries
Harold

The "Riv-Nuts" you pictured will be an excellent, permanent fix. They are installed with a tool resembling a pop riveter and they're available in a pretty good selection of diameters and thread pitches. You will need to drill out the old screw anchors, however. Go for it!
Jerry

Here is a couple of links for rivet nut kits.

https://www.harborfreight.com/45-piece-threaded-insert-riveter-kit-1210.html

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TODXQ...d_r=60afcccf-921f-4875-8591-a6bb5f285e95

If you only plan on doing a few holes, you can buy only the rivet nut inserts you need and use a bolt, nut and a washer to install the rivet nuts (don’t use any bolt or screw you plan on using to bolt on your door panel). Thread the nut on the bolt, then the washer and thread them into the rivet nut insert so the bolt just pokes thru the insert. Run the nut down until the nut and washer touch the insert. Install the insert into the hole (you’ll need to drill out the hole to match the OD of the insert) and using two wrenches tighten the nut while you hold back on the bolt until the insert cinches up on the sheet metal. A bit of oil on the nut and washer will help.

This process is slow but effective. The rivet nut installation tool is much faster and if you anticipate more fastener issues, would be the way to go.

I've also used a battery powered 3/8" drive impact wrench and a nut, a washer and a piece of all-thread rod to install riv-nuts- - - -just turn the power level down low to avoid over-torquing.
Jerry

Thank you so much Harold, Jerry, and Phack!! I've been feeling a little defeated in the restoration world lately. Everyone who has replied has renewed my faith that I will accomplish this [massive] undertaking.

I'm taking screenshots, putting them in my restoration album on my phone, and placing an Amazon order right now!

Thank you so much!!
Maria

A couple of thoughts. They do make a small hand tool for installing these. Mine originally came with a socket head screw but a normal machine screw will work when you lose the socket head screw. Lube is your friend when using this tool. I prefer using this over any of the squeeze tools. It just takes less effort and you have more control.

The other thing to do is find the heavy duty rivnuts with the serated edges. They grip oh so much better than the thinner smooth light duty versions.

You can possibly “borrow” the setting tool from your local FLAPS. You’re having way too much fun. Keep plugging away and one of these days you’ll be cruising!

@ MNSmith - Thank you for the information, and the visual! I'll go search for those now. I actually did something to my elbow a couple of months ago while working on removing a clutch head screw...I'll gladly take your advice on the tool you're talking about. LoL

@ Justhorsenaround - Thank you! I'll definitely check into it. (And hopefully sooner rather than later). =)