I brought this gem home today. the intention is to replace my jeep.
Issues, the drivers (electric) window doesn't work, the rear (electric) window doesn't work, There is no oil pressure gauge, Mrs. Rod is mad at me, it is rusty.
Another quality post. Real Trucks Rattle HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
Leo, Wife is mad because I have too many vics. AND most of them have "issues". She demanded that I fix the oil leak on my 2003 Jeff Gordon Monte Carlo first. I'll be nickel & diming the Blazer to get it road worthy (and pass a smog test). While i'm putting the Suburban back together.
Another quality post. Real Trucks Rattle HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
Not sure about Colorado, but Pa doesn't require any inspection or smog test on anything with an Antique registration. Only requirement is age. 25 years old or older. Might be something to look into?
Glenn's, Colorado requires a smog test back to a certain year before they are exempt. After a certain year, they require a smog test annually. If I put collector plates on it, then it gets smogged every 5 years.
This peach needs to run much better before I try to smog it. I've already replaced about 12 feet of vacuum and fuel lines. All the coolant hoses are next.
Another quality post. Real Trucks Rattle HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
Interesting, a week or so after I acquired the 67 Suburban, it snowed. A week or two after the big red blazer (I didn't name it) appears in my driveway, it snowed. The 4x4 works though, even with street tires on it. BRB slams into reverse and drive, even when the idle is normal. I heard on the internet that bad mounts will cause that?
Last edited by Rusty Rod; 03/21/20213:13 PM.
Another quality post. Real Trucks Rattle HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
bad motor/trans mounts could cause that, also may be that the idle is too high. It can be idle smooth but still high if the O2 sensors or mass air flow are not reading properly. somtimes just driving a bit can help if the stuff is just dusty/dirty.
EDIT: when the mounts dry up there will be play in bolts allowing the motor to rock side to side when you shift. (I don't recommend it but I have just tightened the bolts down to buy some time and reduce stress on the mount themselves but it can make the rubber decide to quit out entirely)
Last edited by TerenceandMary; 03/22/202112:25 AM.
62' GMC Fleetside 3/4 ton 235 4-speed. Time makes fools of us all.
Mounts are the 1st thing id check. Oped da hood. Get in da drivers seat. Do your best to see whats going on under da hood. Put it in gear. Movement? Put it in reverse. Movement? Brake torque it when in either gear. You will see whats up that way if its a mount issue. 2nd thing, could be a ton of stuff. Carrier bearing if applicable. U joints. Rear end slop. Check mounts 1st. Go from there. Keep posting.
One other thing. Might be a longshot tho. Make sure you hold firm on the brake pedal and make sure the rear brakes are adjusted up. They might not be holding the rear axles enough. Kinda like putting it in gear wothout applying brakes at at all. Idle speed of the motor is a factor also. Just food for thought.....
The Tranny reverted to all Neutrals! I just spent 4 hours wrangling the old one out. The "new" tranny slipped into place just like it belonged in there. However, I did find that the exhaust system is cobbled together and leaks at nearly every seam. I'll be re-cobbling it back together so that I can see if this heap will pass the smog tests.
Last edited by Rusty Rod; 09/05/20215:29 PM.
Another quality post. Real Trucks Rattle HELP! The Paranoids are after me!