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Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 123
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 123
Thanks, I should get the relays tomorrow or monday. Thanks this will make it easy to wire. i appreciate your help.
Frank

Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 123
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 123
Installed two relays. It works great. Thanks for all the help and concerns.
Frank

Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 123
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 123
Comments not concerns. darn Auto correct.

I hope the person who invented "Auto Correct" burns in hello.

Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,476
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,476
Glad you finally got it solved and upgraded along the way!

I find myself a victim of auto correct too!


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 123
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 123
I should add it is functional but not very pretty. i have a terrible time making wiring instalation look good. wires everywhere. thanks again for everybodys help especially hotrod who sent me a wiring diag.

Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 1,960
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 1,960
Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
Listen carefully- - - - -you do not have a short, nor an open circuit. You have enough current draw to make the circuit breaker built into the light switch cycle on and off. The fact that it takes some time to begin cycling means there is not a "short" in the classic sense of the term. A short would make the breaker begin cycling immediately, as soon as the lights were turned on. An "open" would keep the lights from operating at all. Do the lights flash when they're on low beam? If not, you need to start investigating the current draw ONLY in the high beam circuit. Forget about looking for parasitic drains or other extraneous Bovine Scatology. It's simply distracting you from finding the true cause of the problem.
Jerry
Hi Jerry , I am having the same issue with my high beams.
To be clear, the over draw is at the light switch and not the fuse block?


~ BD.
"You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker
1958 Apache Stepside
1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 1,960
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 1,960
Originally Posted by Phak1
I know that the headlight switch is new, BUT, the contacts on the built in breaker could be the culprit. I had the same issue, but with the original headlight switch. My lights operated flawlessly on low beams but when I changed to the high beams, after a 1/2 minute or so the lights would come on the go off. The high beams draw more power then the low beams. On my truck, which is twelve volts, the high beams draw 60 watts and the low draw 50 watts. That extra 10 watts caused the breaker to heat up and open. The contact points were burned. That troubleshooting drove me crazy until I finally gave up and replaced the switch. Issue solved.

I’m not saying that is your problem, but I am saying it’s a possibility. The repop overseas parts are not the quality that the old “Made in USA” were.
I had the old switch from the rewire and popped it in. Still the same problem.
I need a relay

Last edited by Guitplayer; 08/26/2021 2:12 PM.

~ BD.
"You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker
1958 Apache Stepside
1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
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