BUSY BOLTERS Are you one?  The Shop Area
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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics126,781 Posts1,039,301 Members48,100 | | Most Online2,175
Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,877 Socket Breaker | | Socket Breaker Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,877 | 1965 Chevy C10
round knob, thrift air heater.
pull knob with settings as you turn right: off, low, med, high
A few months ago I had an electrical melt down in the engine compartment and behind the dash. I replaced harnesses, fixed burned up wires behind the instrument panel, put it all back together.
I'm still chasing down where all the little light bulbs go.
Now, the heater only works on high, and it blows strong as it ever did. If I turn it down to med or low, it goes off.
My first thought is maybe I knocked something loose or didn't plug something back in... but on the back of the heater switch, I don't feel any exposed plugs, seems like everything is plugged in.
Maybe the switch went kaput after all this time? I dunno.
Is it possible to run it only on high because something is unplugged?
I've been flipping through my shop manuals trying to find out what wires go to the heater switch, but haven't seen it yet in the wiring diagram, or I'm just missing it.
Thought I'd ask you guys.
Thanks.
-Woog | | | | | Joined: Mar 2019 Posts: 1,003 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2019 Posts: 1,003 | You have a bad blower motor resistor. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,877 Socket Breaker | | Socket Breaker Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,877 | thanks for the reply glenn.
-Woog | | | | | Joined: Mar 2019 Posts: 1,003 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2019 Posts: 1,003 | No problem  | | | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 1,715 Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters | | Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters Joined: May 2007 Posts: 1,715 | What does that mean specifically? Is that in the switch or in the motor and can it be replaced? I have encountered similar issue but able to wiggle and reboot (with boot) to get things back on track, (but this may be a different problem). | | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 893 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 893 |
Brian
1955.2 3100 Truck
The older I get the more dangerous I am!!!!! | | | | | Joined: Mar 2019 Posts: 1,003 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2019 Posts: 1,003 | Looks like 55Shaker hit da nail on da head. Its not either da switch or motor. Its somewhere in between. Usually mounted in metal part of ductwork. Usually somewhat easily accessible, because of failure possibilities. Usually inside of the veh. But ive seen em under da hood also.
Last edited by glenns towing; 02/13/2021 12:03 AM. Reason: Forgot to mention
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2019 Posts: 1,003 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2019 Posts: 1,003 | What does that mean specifically? Is that in the switch or in the motor and can it be replaced? I have encountered similar issue but able to wiggle and reboot (with boot) to get things back on track, (but this may be a different problem). Might be da same problem really. Da "boot" probly got da springy things to make contact and appease the boot wearer.  | | | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 1,715 Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters | | Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters Joined: May 2007 Posts: 1,715 | got it. Thanks again. Learning some more. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2018 Posts: 71 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2018 Posts: 71 | Reach up behind the blower box near the firewall on the passenger side in the cab and you will feel a 3 prong connector mounted on the back of the box for the resister assembly. Pull the wire connector socket forward and it will come off the prongs of the resister. It is the connector to the switch on one end and the resister on the other. If you have trouble finding it, just follow by feel the wires on the dash switch toward the passenger side. It is held in place by 2 screws which you can remove with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet. I dont clearly remenber what size socket, but I think it's a 5/16. Before replacing the old resister use a grounded test light to check for power at spade sockets in the connector. You should have power at only 1 wire at a time depending what position the knob is in. If you don't have power at all switch positions the switch is probably at fault. You can also use an ohm meter to check continuity between the ends of the connector loom by disconnecting both ends and using the "sound tone" feature on your multimeter.
Last edited by Xena; 02/19/2021 7:20 PM.
1966 K20 long bed
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,877 Socket Breaker | | Socket Breaker Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,877 | Xena - thanks for the troubleshooting tips!
-Woog | | | | | Joined: Jul 2018 Posts: 71 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2018 Posts: 71 |
1966 K20 long bed
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,675 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,675 | The reason the blower works on high speed is that there is a relay built into the system to bypass the resistor when the fan switch is in the "high" position. An open circuit in the resistor stack, or a dirty switch connection or burned/corroded wiring will disable the slower speeds.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2018 Posts: 71 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2018 Posts: 71 | Thats what the troubleshhoting is all about. Unless the truck has air conditioning, there is no relay.
Last edited by Xena; 03/01/2021 2:41 PM.
1966 K20 long bed
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