I recently came apon a 1954 235 motor that was on a wood pallet at an auction. I have no way of knowing its history but bought it for the cylinder head needed for another 235 that had a cracked head. After getting it home and finding that it was not stuck, I then checked the top end that was very clean. Someone at some time in the past had cleaned the motor, painted parts seperately and had installed new freeze plugs. It was not a recent repaint and showed signs of some useage. I plan to try to fire it up on a test bed and hope I get lucky. The flywheel was missing and I noticed that the large freeze plug that is behind the flywheel up high was missing. There was a ridge recessed in the freeze plug opening in the block, perhaps machined in from the factory to keep a replacement plug from being pounded in too far or I wonder if it was the remains from another plug. I looked at another motor I have stored and it looks like the plug was installed backwards with the cupped end facing inward with the back side flush with the block. I hope someone has remembered doing this install and can advise me as to which way to put in the new plug. Also, can I buy just the one plug ? I don't want to make any mistakes on this one being that it is behind the flywheel. George
Good observations but not quite right. That rear plug is actually a concave disc that goes into the port with the curve facing out. (I like to use just a tiny bit of sealer at the seat). Once installed, you use a good size blunt punch and big hammer and dimple the disc. That dimple pushes the plug outward so to speak and creates the seal.
I prefer to put the square drive end of a medium-sized socket, maybe a 7/8-1" or so against the plug, and give it a good smack with a heavy hammer. The idea is to flatten the bulge a little and expand the edge of the plug against the counterbore in the block. Jerry
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If you haven't installed the freeze plugs yet, check the coolant passages for rust build-up. Rust tends to settle at the rear of the engine which may inhibit coolant flow. A hot area in the block can cause the head to overheat and warp. Also remove the drain petcock(s) and water jacket plugs to check for build-up. I had a serious build-up in my block. No flow to drain the coolant. Removed the petcock and drain plugs. Still no flow. It took me a day of gently poking also sorts of things to break up the sludge and rust. Hot water, compressed air to get the most of it and finally a block cleaner.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."