Looking to improve the front suspension on '59 Apache; what are my options? Is going with a new Mustang II kit a good idea to save time & expense in the long run? Also want to add rack & pinion or PS. Thanks.
How can you improve on a perfect truck suspension? Just buy a Camaro or a Mustang and sell the truck. That way you don't destroy a Camaro, a Mustang or a truck.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Very good response bartamos. I agree there is nothing to improve. Its a truck not a lexus. Actually the thing to do is sell that truck and find one that is already goofed up with a funky independant front suspension there are lots and lots of them forsale. I've seen a few that were for give a way prices, lots of cool mods that everyone likes. And huge savings in parts costs and time in having to do all the work.
Last edited by Truckrolet; 07/22/20135:54 AM.
Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks. Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.
As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
I'm pretty sure it is his truck to do with as he pleases. Yes, Jack, the bolt-in kits work/fit pretty good. My buddy has one that we put one on, it rides/handles like a new truck, goes straight down the highways at 70+, and has held up to daily dirt road usage.
Therapy costs $$$ and everyone has a preferred method of therapy, some like it on a couch and some like it in the shop with a old truck and a box of tools.......
Therapy costs $$$ and everyone has a preferred method of therapy, some like it on a couch and some like it in the shop with a old truck and a box of tools.......
64Fleet: Who makes a "bolt in" improved front suspension for 1959 Chevy Truck 34" frame? You Mean the donor truck method from a 73-87? That conversion is not "bolt in" either. Next part not directed at anyone, just my opinion: That's the problem, they are cut, fab, narrow and weld. Would you pay a lot of money for a truck with a front end swap done by who knows who? that who knows what? What about weld strength and what kind of geometry, symmetry and alignment was adhered to? It's not a job for a back yard, wrought iron gate builder. You don't do it with a 120V mig. The therapy you get might be physical therapy at the hospital. In the 55-59 Truck Manual, there is a section on welding to those frames. Very specific warnings and methods. Most add on front suspension kits use boxing, these old original frames are not to be boxed, they are meant to twist, engineered to twist. Boxing is for hot rods. Everybody thinks boxing like Chip Foose, makes you go faster. They are trying to make the frame stronger because the load is transferred from a spread load at leaf spring hangers to a point load at the A arm. In my opinion the way to go is a complete chassis like a Fatman chassis, built and engineered from scratch. About $8500. http://www.fatmanfabrications.co/products/1955-1959-chevy-truck-chassis/ Not bad mouthing someone who wants to have a car ride with the cool look of an old truck, they are Stovebolters too. But have seen too many butchered, unsafe at 70 MPH, jobs. I've looked at many for sale.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Or do a complete chasis swap with a newer frame. My '59 has a '87 chasis under it (with a few very minor changes). Donor truck cost me $800 with a good drivetrain that made a greating starting point for the build. I replaced all the wear points with new and it drives just like a new truck - best of both worlds.
64Fleet: Who makes a "bolt in" improved front suspension for 1959 Chevy Truck 34" frame? You Mean the donor truck method from a 73-87? That conversion is not "bolt in" either. Next part not directed at anyone, just my opinion: That's the problem, they are cut, fab, narrow and weld. Would you pay a lot of money for a truck with a front end swap done by who knows who? that who knows what? What about weld strength and what kind of geometry, symmetry and alignment was adhered to? It's not a job for a back yard, wrought iron gate builder. You don't do it with a 120V mig. The therapy you get might be physical therapy at the hospital. In the 55-59 Truck Manual, there is a section on welding to those frames. Very specific warnings and methods. Most add on front suspension kits use boxing, these old original frames are not to be boxed, they are meant to twist, engineered to twist. Boxing is for hot rods. Everybody thinks boxing like Chip Foose, makes you go faster. They are trying to make the frame stronger because the load is transferred from a spread load at leaf spring hangers to a point load at the A arm. In my opinion the way to go is a complete chassis like a Fatman chassis, built and engineered from scratch. About $8500. http://www.fatmanfabrications.co/products/1955-1959-chevy-truck-chassis/ Not bad mouthing someone who wants to have a car ride with the cool look of an old truck, they are Stovebolters too. But have seen too many butchered, unsafe at 70 MPH, jobs. I've looked at many for sale.
This is why I am a believer in complete chassis swaps. The chassis and front and rear suspension and brakes are all designed to operate together. The suspension is much better than the original, as are the brakes. I plan to put 5-10K KM's on my truck a year (minimum), and engineering has much improved since 1946 in the way of suspension and brakes.
Bartamos, right on again. With all the work involved to do it right, you could probably get a complete frame kit from these guys http://artmorrison.com/homepage2.php
Personally I think all the frame mods to these old trucks are dangerous. The frames are of all riveted construction so they will move and distribute stress. Welding here and there will either concentrate the stress in the weld area or transfer it else where. The factory spent many hours on vibration fixtures to get it right and safe. Cutting that frame and welding on junk ruins it period.
Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks. Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.
As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
Just a question, if I rebuild the frontend Kingpin new leespring, will the help the stabilize the frontend? any thing else I need to do?
You need to insure that all of your front end is in good shape, steering gear, tie rod ends, drag link, wheel bearings, shackles and bushings. If everything is tight and in good condition you can add an anti-roll bar (sway bar) and gas shocks. The anti-roll bar will help with weight transfer while turning or stopping, the gas shocks will dampen the bumps a lot better than stock.
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
If you don't like driving yourTruck, you won't drive yourTruck..| Living life in the SLOW lane
You should probably start a new post, some good information here but the post is 8 years old and the original poster has long since sold the truck. Fred
1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes 1957 Bel Air Sport Coupe/Red/355/TH350/PS/Disc Brakes 2017 Silverado LT Single Cab SB/Black/5.3/6 Speed Trans 1947 Willys CJ2A w/F-Head engine
