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#1395352 02/01/2021 9:30 PM
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 224
4
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 224
Working on the lights of my ‘47 Chevrolet 3100. I replaced the dimmer switch. I thought I connected the new switch correctly as I used the old one as the example.
Fast forward: now connecting the inner fender wiring harness and the headlight leads. I am getting only high beams. Could be I’m just not in correctly connecting wires. I have power to the bottom 3 terminals of the fuse box. The upper 2 terminals (high and low beams);won’t light the test light on either high or low beam.
I’m now rechecking the wiring diagram and tracing the wires.
When I click the dimmer switch to high beam I at least get a current flow. When I use low beams.....nothing.
My question is: Could I have crossed/incorrectly wired the dimmer switch that would cause the hi/lo beams to not work correctly?
Will check with a meter but I thought I’d ask smarter folks for ideas.

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,002
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,002
The center terminal connects to the battery feed and the outer ones to the headlights (wouldn't really matter which is which). You probably have the wires switched. If the hot is connected to one of the outer terminals and high beam feed is connected to the center terminal, you'd get exactly what you're seeing. Double check your wiring at the dimmer switch.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
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Originally Posted by klhansen
The center terminal connects to the battery feed
Just to clarify for others that may know, the center terminal which is the feed, is coming from the headlight switch not the battery.

Last edited by Phak1; 02/01/2021 11:18 PM.

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,002
Phil is correct. I should have said input to the center. blush


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 224
4
'Bolter
'Bolter
4 Offline
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 224
I suspected it was my connecting the dimmer switch wrong (operator error). Guess I was hoping it wasn’t though. Seems that dimmer switch is cleverly snuggled between the inner fender and firewall. Hehe
I appreciate your help. Snow is forecast so I’ll spend time on this in the man cave.
Thanks for your help.


Moderated by  Jon G, Rusty Rod 

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