As I tried to put the front torque tube together, I got a hold of some aftermarket u-joints to replace the originals, GM 605118... My question is, the originals yokes are locked with a bolt to the the transmission shaft and the front shaft... As I assemble everything, I could actually use one of the aftermarket u-joints in the center to assemble the shaft and tube, BUT without the locking bolt to the shaft as it is set up with the original u-joints... Is this extra lock (bolt) really necessary?
I think I would use the locking bolt. Without it, the u-joint could slide on the splines and wear more than originally engineered.
A suggestion: since this is related to your other post(s) about the u-joint on your truck, it would make sense to reply in the same thread, keeping the related questions together.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I am not trying to re-engineer the set up... The problem comes with the lack of original parts and seing if period aftermarket substitutes are workable... In this case, there is a NEAPCO u-joint around with a different lock ring and bearing cap, but looks actually even more difficult to work with in place (lock placement/sliding cap to remove joint) than the original design... Having said that, I was thinking about sliding the aftermarket u-joint (in the center) as a unit and forgoing the bolt, but I won't do it now, since I do not want any future problems... That bolt was placed in there for a reason and I don't claim to know more than the GM engineers who design it...
Following the project, you could also use this u-joint on the transmission side, BUT the issue comes with removing the old speedometer gear/finding a new speedometer gear and pressing it into the new U-joint... So back to square one. Scrounge for original parts and salvage what you can...
Your suggestion about the post makes sense, but there was so much more to discuss about the problem, I figured I keep it separate not to make the post to long and more complicated...
Here is the process of assembly that worked for me, never having done this repair before... After pre loading the front ball (Using 8-12 lbs) of torque, I set that aside and proceeded to set the tube in place with the help of two jack stands... The next step was to install the front u-joint and bolt it in place. After that, I could slide the front section of the tube with the ball, collar, and gaskets in place and just snug the 4 bolts up... Immediately afterward you must slide the entire tube forward for fitment of the center section...
Once that is done, you can raise or swing the center section (tube) into place and line up the yokes and spider together...As you line everything up, now it is the time to slide the bearings into the spider and set the locks in place... As I recall, the chamfered side of the bearings must face inward on installation... Before closing everything together, I partially filled the ball with grease...
The final step entailed sliding the ball and collar forward to meet with the center support... Once that is done, you can push everything upward and hang it in place but loosely... Before you go all the way up, it helps to put together the six collar bolts and close everything up... Then snug the two 3/4" mounting bolts slowly until you're in place... At that point, finish tightening up the 6 bolts and determine if you need the four gaskets in the kit, or just three... I ended up using only three gaskets.. Better put them all in place. You can always remove one by cutting it, but you can't add more unless you take everything apart again!...;(
I hope this helps the next poor devil making this repair... I should have the complete photos tomorrow..
