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Hello everybody! It's been a while since I posted last. I started working on my cab last week and ran into some unexpected rust under the rear window. Any recommendations? I really don't want to have to remove the whole top to fix it but I also don't want it to bubble through a year from now.

For peace of mind If the top can be removed fairly easily to gain access to the areas with rust then that is what you should do.

It will take longer, but you will have a better finished product, especially if it is something that you know may cause issues further down the road.

There are products out there to tackle rust, Spray can treatments, acid etching.

You can always treat the areas after paint with rust check/fluid film type products as well to slow the process.

Try and eliminate any areas where water can enter in the future and also create drain points for water that does enter.

I think I would approach that by removing the interior panels. That can be done by drilling out the spot welds. That would give you access to deal with the rust by media blasting, which will probably reveal additional thin spots that will need to be dealt with.

IMHO, there are over 80 spot welds to remove the inner panel and 40 or so look like you’ll be laying on your back. I’ve never removed the inner panel before and maybe some of our experts will weigh in. I’ve attached two pages from the assembly manual that show some of the detail.

I might consider cutting a few windows on the inside panel, that can be welded back in to gain access.

Thank you all for your input. I like your idea Phak. I think I will cut a few access holes on the inside. I pulled several HUGE mouse nests out today. They destroy EVERYTHING! The panel above the drivers visor was full of mouse and it ate through. Same with both of the forward cab posts and the driver rear cab corner. Sometimes I think about buying a new cab. Then I realize that I don't have $8,000 laying around... I'll be honest; the truck I'm currently working on doesn't have to be PERFECT. I intend to use it as my "work" truck. I have a 49 1.5 ton in a lot better shape (sheet-metal wise) which I would like to get restored to almost show quality.

Gentlemen, let me tell you a heartbreak story. Last summer, I had the truck out and the motor running. I decided to test out the hoist/hydraulics to make sure it all worked good. I engaged the pto and pulled the lever to raise the bed. There is a lock supposed to keep the bed from accidentally tilting back (with a load) while you are driving down the road. Well, the lock didn't disengage fully. Before I knew the latch was caught; the hoist bent both channel beams, the cross beams, and my bed into a banana.
The good news is that the hydraulics work GREAT!
Also, it didn't even make the motor grunt. Didn't slow down a bit.
Bad news is that now I have a hunchback AD truck.

Ouch! That's bad news.

As far as cutting windows in the inner panel and welding them back closed, that would be hard to get finished nicely, IMO. Granted, there are a lot of spot welds (around the window, along the belt rail and up the B Pillars), but none of them are overhead. All the ones on the belt rail are on vertical joints.

As far as the cab, with the rear rust you first showed us, and the damage you just mentioned at the windshield header and front posts, you might think about finding an original cab that's in better shape. I would think there are quite a few old farm trucks with acceptable cabs available in your area. That may be less work than trying to repair what you have.

So the inner panel is spot welded to the belt rail. Good to know. Thanks Kevin!

Yep. There's a better view of the assembly on Section 1 Sheet 42.00, although it's not exactly correct, as there's no jog in the inner panels just above the belt rail.

Take the rear cab panel out, very easy to do I've done thos to my 47 loadmaster cab not too difficult

Are you talking about the inner or outer cab panel?

I'm sure he meant inner panel, Phil.
Removing the outer cab panel would open up a very large can of worms. The inner panel would entail just cutting out spot welds and should fit back in exactly where it came out. I can't say that for removing the outer cab panel.

Interior panel,I also had mouse issue& can't really blow out well enough to get rid of the smell nor wash good enough to kill the germs&acidity of there urine