The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1951 3100 Radiator questions

Happy New Year all!

So I picked up this Radiator inexpensively at a local swap meet years ago. Just getting ready to get it checked for leaks (pretty sure it has some). But in doing more research it might not be the right radiator to use.

I plan to use a stock small block 400CI, so no crazy HP, just regular compression, but low end torque, so cooling should not be taxed. Dual electric fans from a Pruis (left over from kids fender bender . I do plan to tow a small RV trailer with this truck.

This an original Harrison #3118967 with a date of 50M, Dec 1950? How many rows does it have and will it support towing? I just checked the inlets/outlets and the SBC hoses will not fit. So to get this rad usable for a V8 and towing, I would have to recore and get larger inlet/outlets?

Sounds like a lot of work versus buying a repro radiator made for a V8. Thoughts?

ps, the bottom metal brace has some rust, so I took off the side supports to fab a new bottom.

Kevin, I'd think you need to recore it, but it might be able to be cleaned well. My guess is it has 3 rows, but would have to see it to be certain. If you're towing a trailer my thought is you need at least a 3 row radiator built to support higher pressure than the one made for 1950 or 1951, but others may have different ideas. I have a 3 row aluminum core with a Spal 2020 cfm fan and an aluminum shroud made by Old Air Products--fan is thermostatically controlled. The problem we have in Dallas is that summer lasts about 300 days a year and traffic can be crazy slow. I should add I'm not concerned with being period-correct as respects the radiator. If a new aluminum one works better, that's what I'll use. Good luck.

A good radiator shop should be able to swap the hose nipples to accommodate the V8 radiator hose sizes. They're just soft soldered into the tanks. However, that's not the main problem you're going to encounter. The core won't be rated to handle the pressure you'll need to run with that engine. That core design is intended for a pressure cap somewhere in the 4-7 PSI range, and your 400 engine is going to need a pressure cap somewhere in the 15 PSI neighborhood. Even if the core doesn't leak now, it won't survive a high pressure cap. Pressure test that one at around 5-7 PSI, and if it's good, sell it and buy a new one that's pressure rated correctly. You'll also need a heater core that's rated for high pressure.
Jerry

Is this a joke? That old radiator was designed for a 216 engine. The 400 sbc is a hard to cool engine anyhow. Get an aluminum rad. designed for your application. You have spent a lot of time & money on this project. I can't understand why you would scimp on that old radiator. Its hot & lonely sitting on the side of the road with an overheated cooling system.
George

Thanks for the replies Jon, Jerry & George. No George, not a joke.

Rad was just an impulse buy (I think $15) and I just shoved it in a corner. Tripped over it again and I thought I would start looking closer at it.

Now with all your advice ( I was slowly getting there too), I will get a a new V8 radiator with as many cores as I could find.

Just need to find a new proper 216 home for this radiator. Thx!

List it in this forum on “Truck Parts for Sale”, and I’m sure there is some “Bolter” that needs that exact radiator!

Summit carries replacement aluminum drop in radiators. Since your already not going for a full restoration, a contemporary radiator that works is always better than factory correct on the side of the road.

I recently went thru the same dilemma with my 53 3100. I intended to have my original radiator re-cored with the three tubes but was quoted $450.00 The new Aluminum replacement was less than half that price. So I asked myself At what cost is it worth keeping things original looking? For me it was just a practical matter of saving a few bucks. Others prefer to keep it all stock but that train left a while back for me when I converted to 12 volt. Now I`m considering front disc brakes for a little more stopping power when towing.....