I took apart two steering wheel horn assemblies from 50-53 chev 3100 trucks 20 years ago and now Im trying to put them together. I notice two issues....maybe someone can help. 1.) One of the "horn button contact assemblies" has a prong and one has not. What is this prong for and where does it sit? 2.) What is the notch on both assemblies for ( around where the steering column goes through ) and where does that fit in? There's no corresponding key in the column ? 3.) One steering wheel has an insulation around the contact and spring assembly, one does not. Figure sect 9 sheet 1.0 of the assembly manual shoes an insulator. Comments? 4.) Sect 9 sheet 1.0 shows no spring around the column stud beneath the steering wheel...this is where the spring goes right? 5.) Lastly, should there be some spring or something to bring the push cap back into position after blowing the horn? (probably at another super slow prius)
Im trying to get this beast back on the road and safety inspected...need the horn ! Appreciate any help. You may need to expand the attached picture.......Glenn
I took apart two steering wheel horn assemblies from 50-53 chev 3100 trucks 20 years ago and now Im trying to put them together. I notice two issues....maybe someone can help. 1.) One of the "horn button contact assemblies" has a prong and one has not. What is this prong for and where does it sit? 2.) What is the notch on both assemblies for ( around where the steering column goes through ) and where does that fit in? There's no corresponding key in the column ? 3.) One steering wheel has an insulation around the contact and spring assembly, one does not. Figure sect 9 sheet 1.0 of the assembly manual shoes an insulator. Comments? 4.) Sect 9 sheet 1.0 shows no spring around the column stud beneath the steering wheel...this is where the spring goes right? 5.) Lastly, should there be some spring or something to bring the push cap back into position after blowing the horn? (probably at another super slow prius)[img]http://[/img]
1) My “Horn Button Contact Assembly” for my ‘52 3100. does not have the raised tab. I suspect it might be for a later AD that has self canceling turn signals.
2) I also have the keyway and it doesn’t seem to serve any function.
3) The insulation is required to insulate the horn circuit from the steering wheel hub.
4) See answer five.
5) I don’t recall there being a spring as part of the horn assembly.
As you can see in my photos, there is nothing more than you see. The insulated contact spring assembly goes in first, followed by the Horn Button Contact Assembly then the washer and nut. Mine works great!
Last edited by Phak1; 01/09/20218:00 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
I had a spring under the steering wheel on my 1950 3100 as well. It seems to not let the wheel down far enough. Can anyone expound on the sping in the photo above and what years this was used on and what for??
I believe that the spring under the steering wheel imparts preload on the steering mast bearing. Without it, there will be play in the steering shaft when you pull up on the steering wheel.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
I believe that the spring under the steering wheel imparts preload on the steering mast bearing. Without it, there will be play in the steering shaft when you pull up on the steering wheel.
Wouldn't the two angle ball bearings on top and bottom of the worm hold the play in the steering shaft to a minimum? With those adjusted to no play, there would be no need for the spring under the steering wheel. I don't recall removing a spring from the underside of my steering wheel, but I'd have to look at my parts stash to be sure.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
If you take a close look at the mast bearing in the above picture, it looks like the spring does indeed put a preload on the bearing. Each race looks to be designed like wheel bearings, where the center nut (or in this case) the spring, applies pressure forcing the two races together separated by the balls in the bearing. I would guess GM engineers designed it this way so no adjustment is ever necessary. IMHO!
Last edited by Phak1; 01/21/20211:51 AM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
That ball bearing would indeed keep the shaft centered with the spring pushing against it, and would eliminate or at least minimize radial (side to side) play in the steering wheel. But since the shaft is a single piece from the steering wheel down to the worm, the worm bearings with the adjusting nut properly set, would eliminate axial play in the shaft.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
I went out and dug out my steering column (partly disassembled) and took a photo. There's a split ring around the shaft that the spring pushes on to take up radial play between the shaft and inner race of the ball bearing. In case anyone is interested.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
As far as the raised tab on the back of the horn button assembly is concerned, If you look at the steering wheel pic (above), you will see a hole at about the 7 o'clock position. If you flip the horn button assembly over, the tab will go into this hole.
Craig
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.