Whatever you are doing, this is not the correct approach. The list of "common size bolts" used on an AD is the same as a list of "Common size bolts". Mostly UNC and some UNF. If you state the activity you want to perform, it would help. I can't give you my valued opinion until I know what you are doing, if anything.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
So are you putting a truck back together? Do you have any of the original hardware? Do you just want to go and buy a bunch without knowing the size, the length.......? Not trying to be a hard A, but tell us what you are actually doing and what pieces you are assembling. You are, at present, being too general. Answer my questions so I can help you get done with whatever you are wanting to do. I could guess, but what good is that? Every part has a different size, finish, pitch, length and head. Sheet metal screws also. Bed bolts could mean holding bed sides and bulkhead together or it could be holding the wood on or the crossmembers or .......... Hardware is not that hard to figure out. I want to help you, in a general way, to be able to do that. For the future. Truck people need to know how to figure out their own hardware and not try to get a magic list. There is none. You could, I guess, study a giant old parts manual if it states the full size. Factory Assembly Manuals show the size most times. But better to learn a few simple ideas.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
I have read your many posts and see you are mechanically inclined and have taken on many mods and etc. So if I explain how to figure hardware, I would be talking down to you That is not my intention. I would have liked to have had the answers to my questions.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Still a PITA. You still have to get the PN's off the FAM and then try to find them on the parts list to get the size. I guess it's something to do on a snowy day.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Unless one is going the Full Concourse route, it doesn't matter that much in terms of exact length or head type. I can tell you this, there is a boatload of 5/16" UNC nuts and bolts on theses trucks for holding on the sheet metal.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Almost all bolts are NC, coarse thread, so one can eliminate NF, fine thread, bolts from your searching. NF threads are only used for steel, not cast iron parts.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
There are a number of NF bolts used, but mainly on stuff attached to the frame (steering gear, Master cylinder mount, etc.), but you're correct, sheet metal attachment bolts are all coarse thread.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Kevin's list of fasteners has quite a few NF. Also, I assume the poster has figured out that he can take the PN's in the FAM and cross to Kevin's list. To figure out some of the bolt/screws. Not what I would do but a viable way.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Of coarse there is always the easy way out and just buy a stainless steel hardware kit from a vendor with everything individually packaged by location (hood, door, fender, bed etc.).
I looked at a few figures on the FAM to try and cross over the PN's to the size on the link, but unfortunately, none of the bolt PN's that I tried matched what was on the parts list. You can, however successfully cross the nut PN's to sizes, and at least find the diameter and pitch of the corresponding bolt. The parts list also doesn't include any clutch head fasteners, such as the flat head ones I found at the outside ends of the hood brace rods. The Master Parts Catalog does have a parts history section that lists supercessions, but that's too much cross-referencing to be worthwhile (at least to me).
Mike B's Classic Parts link is pretty spendy, but you'd expect that for the time they took to catalog and package everything. Stainless steel is overkill, IMO.
Last edited by klhansen; 01/18/202111:42 PM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I used SS fasteners everywhere I possibly could on a '52 3100 which I am currently building for a customer. I am saving him a ton of money since I won't be charging him to prep, prime and paint all of those fasteners.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
I agree it seems like a lot of money, but there is some value in not having to chase bolts when working on one section of the build and having the stock looking indented head on the bolts where applicable.
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
Maybe you got a low-quality part that caused it to crack. Also, ensure that the armorer wrench is set at a 90° angle to the torque wrench. If you are sure to keep the 90-degree angle, then you need to buy new bolts. Many stories on the internet now specialize in selling building materials. But I recommend you to buy bolts here https://www.scrooz.com.au/, because this online store has long been in this area and, most importantly, sells bolts of quality metals.
Last edited by Avanewman; 07/22/20225:39 AM.
I just read this in a news story: “Williams' body was found stuffed in a bag in the bathroom of his apartment with no obvious signs of foul play.” Um, isn't his body being in a bag in the bathroom a pretty good indicator that something went wrong?
I will say this about the SS set I bought. In the complete set I received - there was not one fine threaded bolt . I needed these to attach the front grill, inner fenders, and fenders to the radiator surround and cab. But this is for a 1941-46 truck and perhaps these SS sets are different for AD series.
I spent time chasing these down at an extra cost (pun not intended).
I ordered the SS set from The Filling Station and was told that they don't expect to see the kits for 8-9 MONTHS! As slow as I have been to finish my project, I don't expect to wait that long.
I've seen some cautionary comments here about SS fasteners tending to degrade, seize and "gall." I thought SS held up better against the elements compared to Non-SS.
Stainless won't degrade, but if you don't put a little lubricant on the threads, they can gall and the threads will seize. Decent quality zinc plated hardware will work fine, and are a lot less money. The originals were likely zinc plated and lasted over 70 years.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.