I have acquired someone else's project , a '54 3100. I have lots of work to do , and I am in a steep learning curve.
This should be easy : Why did the good folks at Chevrolet choose to locate the battery underneath the cab floor? In the case of my truck the battery box is in poor condition , and - given the fact that there is a lot of "non-originality" with this particular pick up anyway - I am considering moving the battery to the more protected engine area.
Answer to question appreciated ,
CJK
Age 68 is not too late to start hot rodding , right?
It's your truck, you can mount that battery wherever you like. But, it's almost always easier to keep it as it was originally designed, as the parts can be readily purchased and just bolted on. That said, if you have the know how, the tools and you'd rather have it under the hood, I say go for it.
Lots of guys relocate their batteries to the engine compartment, including me. Advantages include easier accessibility (especially if you're going to have carpet and/or floor mats) for maintenance or jump-starting, room for a larger battery than the original box will allow, and it's up out of the road spray. Disadvantages include possible acid leakage into the engine compartment, and a more cluttered firewall.
The battery box on my truck was previously relocated under the hood. When it came time to paint the firewall, I moved the battery back under the floor. For me, the box was in the way when accessing the rear of the engine.
33 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
The battery box on my truck was previously relocated under the hood. When it came time to paint the firewall, I moved the battery back under the floor. For me, the box was in the way when accessing the rear of the engine.
Same here. I moved it back to under the floor. Today's batteries don't need maintenance so it's OK under the floor. However, if it was on the firewall it would be easier to get to if you need/give a boost.
I liked the under floor because I could hook up a battery charger, run the extension cord from underneath, and lock the charger in the cab of the truck to charge in the driveway overnight. Also, I tend to resist change and like the original design.
I extended the rails and battery box floor and put two deep charge 6 volt batteries in. Everything runs off 6 volt except for starter and a/c. Here in Florida the battery stays cooler under the floor. Doc.
Currently making 1954 3100 better than new and Genetics
My guess would be to save money. Eliminating the need to create that reinforced access hole in the cab floor, and the battery box lid. It's much cheaper under the hood with just a simple tray, even though that's really not the best environment for a battery with all the heat.
Probably not an issue for most folks but I want my truck to appear as original as possible. I converted to 12v and still run a generator and voltage regulator. With the battery under the floor no one can tell it is not still 6v.
It is important to keep those battery cables as short as possible. Current is a funny thing. The proximity to the starter would be a major design consideration. Especially for a 6 volt system. I converted to 12 VDC and I too use a negative terminal disconnect thingie (one of those with a green knob). I use the battery hatch regularly to gain access under the floor which is no problem. As a rule, I disconnect every time I park her in the garage for safety.
Mine is still under the floor. You will see 3 sets of holes where the rearward bracket has been/can be mounted. Each set of holes indicate either a stock or two larger batteries had been used. I'm using a larger battery and the middle set of holes. Very easy to make a battery hold-down with thin angled metal, too. The battery is cooler here (and Texas like Florida is a hot place now). The short cables are a big plus.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
I also kept the battery under the truck and added a battery isolator switch. I installed mine on the passenger side seat riser. I disconnect the battery every time I park it. I also wanted it inside as I thought if I had an electrical fire more that likely I’d be in the cab and I could shut it off quickly. I installed it on the negative cable as I didn’t want 12v positive cable passing thru the floor creating a dead short if the grommet failed. If the grommet on the ground wire failed it would only complete the circuit. If the key is off it should have no consequences!
Last edited by Phak1; 12/17/20201:36 AM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Somewhere I saw a custom box that lowers down from under the truck so you don't have to disturb the carpet for service...should be easy to make. Just make sure you leave some slack in the cables...
my '36 battery came hanging below the floor under the passenger floorboard area so i fabed up a box and lid and relocated it under the seat(it doesnt hang lower than the frame) I did the same when i put in the brake booster.
Great idea! This way you don’t have to pull up the mat/carpet and it makes easy access to the relocated brake master cylinder! That’s thinking out if the box!
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
