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| | Forums66 Topics126,781 Posts1,039,301 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Dec 2020 Posts: 49 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2020 Posts: 49 | I'm working on a 68 C10.
Looking for what sealant material is used to seal the glass into the "vent & door" window channels? So far what I have found is something called "Setting Tape" having various sizes. Also have found a "Butyl Tape also various sizes. That being said the material used (various thicknesses) along with the glass and channel sizes leaves the glass "loose" whether using OEM or aftermarket glass, the math doesn't work. What was originally used is a form fitting type of material that isn't anywhere found.
Any and all Help or Links is very much appreciated. Thanks, MJ
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| | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 | How about doubling up on one side of the glass with the setting tape? The setting tape you found is what was used originally.
BTW, the service manual talks about using a little SAE 10 engine oil on the metal channel when installing. That may be enough to get the tape to go around the bends as it should. This project is in my future as well. It also recommends using a little gasoline to soften up the tape when removing the old glass. I did use that trick, but used something a bit less volatile than gasoline.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | Joined: Dec 2020 Posts: 49 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2020 Posts: 49 | How about doubling up on one side of the glass with the setting tape? The setting tape you found is what was used originally.
BTW, the service manual talks about using a little SAE 10 engine oil on the metal channel when installing. That may be enough to get the tape to go around the bends as it should. This project is in my future as well. It also recommends using a little gasoline to soften up the tape when removing the old glass. I did use that trick, but used something a bit less volatile than gasoline. Doubling up with "Any" of the materials would make it way too tight or well beyond a proper fit. I have did the Math for all the tapes or material for setting the window/vent glass "the math doesn't" ad up. The old setting material that was in the channel is of a plastic type stuff (or this is what was in it) that is Molded in a stiff U shape, that U shape stuff isn't available anywhere. Mine is/was unusable.
Last edited by MJ Gordon51; 01/05/2021 8:04 PM.
Ask a question if you need a answer! Resting up on Mon-Fri from Sat and Sun.
| | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 | I believe that molded plastic stuff is actually hardened setting tape. It gets very brittle with age. But if it's not original glass, it may indeed be some sort of molded plastic.
Have you tried asking at an automotive glass shop?
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 209 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 209 | I seem to remember the u-shaped plastic being in some vents, can't remember what year, make model anymore. When we were replacing vents and doors on these trucks on a daily basis we used either cork/rubber or rubber setting tape. We had several different thickness's of both, just found the one that worked best. You would probably need to find an older glass shop that has a supply of these, they should be able to fix you up. The oil on the rubber tape will soften and lubricate it easing installation. Heating the tape with a heat gun or torch gently will also help. John | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 | Steele carries the seals for the vent window on your truck although I’m not sure if it’s the outermost seals or the glass setting seal. It’s worth a call to them. Maybe they can help.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | Joined: Dec 2020 Posts: 49 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2020 Posts: 49 | Steele carries the seals for the vent window on your truck although I’m not sure if it’s the outermost seals or the glass setting seal. It’s worth a call to them. Maybe they can help. They were my First call, out of the 9 Catalog/Online Restoration books I have only about 4 had something called "Setting tape" with 1 having 3 thicknesses like ( .031 or 1/32nd), (.047 or 3/64/ .04688), and (.063 or 1/16th.) and Steele having 1/32nd. & 1/16th. Steele has two setting type tapes one with a Cork Rubber backed with a felt Linen material other side @ $5.69 a foot which doesn't seem to have any/no stickum base material and the other one being a "moldable type" somewhat Rubber Type Polymer @ $4.99 a foot. That being said the "moldable type one does have a stickum type material that would in my mind grab both the channel and the glass at the same time BUT I still can pull the wing glass out of the channel wrapped with the moldable material. I have just one OEM wing window (extra laying around) that the thickness is at .198" and the new/aftermarket wing windows thicknesses are at .186" and my wing window channel is at .320 +/- so you do the Math Nothing fits or holds the glass good enough for a tight bond. I know this was Long Winded but it shows I have tried my best without finding a "Solution" for my Dilemma. WHATS NEXT YOU'ALL ? LOL are we having a great New Years Yet ?
Ask a question if you need a answer! Resting up on Mon-Fri from Sat and Sun.
| | | | Joined: Dec 2020 Posts: 49 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2020 Posts: 49 | I believe that molded plastic stuff is actually hardened setting tape. It gets very brittle with age. But if it's not original glass, it may indeed be some sort of molded plastic.
Have you tried asking at an automotive glass shop? Glass shops ZERO (looking in/from the Upper Desert to the Lower Desert of Palm Springs,CA areas). There only suggestion is using a calking type runny mess stuff. Not what I want to use. There's got to be something easier or less messy out there.
Ask a question if you need a answer! Resting up on Mon-Fri from Sat and Sun.
| | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 | Does anyone sell complete wing window assemblies for your year? If so, you might try finding out where they're made and calling the manufacturer to see if they'd tell you what they use. The trouble is, you'd likely need to speak Chinese to talk with them. LOL!
You may be stuck (no pun intended) with using some sort of RTV material. I think I'd try bedding the setting tape in RTV, then installing the glass and dressing the edge with more RTV. One of the Black RTV products would probably be your best bet.
Good luck in whatever you wind up doing.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | |
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