| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,078 Posts1,056,057 Members48,433 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | 
#13908 05/31/2005 5:07 AM | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 60 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 60 | I Have just pulled My 216 to replace with a Pre-53 235. The No. 1 cylinder piston bearing needs to be replaced. Obviously I will replace them all since I have it out. Is it as easy as just putting new bearings in. Or do I have to send it out to get babbited? Im trying to go cheap as possible. Thanks alot in advance, Jess
1951 3100
| | |
#13909 06/01/2005 12:14 AM | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | A pre 53 235 would have babbitted rods, from the factory. You either would have to get a reconditioned rod, get your rod reconditioned (somewhere?) or have it machined to take the inserts. The third way is what I would recommend. | | |
#13910 06/01/2005 5:10 AM | Joined: May 2000 Posts: 424 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2000 Posts: 424 | Does #1 need a new rod, or can you adjust it enough by removing the shims between the rod and cap? Was it knocking? | | |
#13911 06/01/2005 7:09 AM | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 60 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 60 | Im not sure if it was knocking cause I never heard it run. About the shim adjusting Im not sure how to do that. thanks alot for the replies, Jess
1951 3100
| | |
#13912 06/01/2005 4:23 PM | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,792 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,792 | Is the crankshaft round and smooth on that cylinder? If so, you can just replace the rod from the bottom. Pull the piston down in the cylinder far enough to expose the wrist pin, loosen or remove the clamp bolt, and slide the wrist pin out by shaking the rod from side to side. Measure the crankshaft with a micrometer to see if it's been ground undersize, and buy a reconditioned rod with the babbit sized correctly for the crankshaft diameter. If more than one rod bearing has problems, I'd reccomend a full overhaul, and probably a conversion to insert-type bearings by getting the rods machined to accept a removable bearing.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | |
|
|
| |
