May-Belle is on the road again!! Only took three years, a few thousand dollars, Many, many hours and a good bit of research and help from Stovebolt and you guys. THANKS!!
Question 1. Something that I had not considered/thought of before getting the big girl on the road . . . the back edge of the hood is only a flat cut edge of steel, it fluctuates while driving. Every other edge of the hood is rolled and crimped or has added pieces to make it stronger. The back edge bounces, rolls like waves and is annoyingly noisy and visually distracting. HOW CAN I FIX THIS? Has anyone else done anything which eliminates this? My only thought so far has been to add strips of that rubber/vinyl door edge bumper material for added strength. Not sure I will like the look!
And a related question . .
Question 2. I did not remove the hood during my work on the truck. I like the patina, she worked as a grain hauler many years in Nebraska and is not being done up as a show truck, I am keeping her "wrinkles and age spots" . . . on the cab anyway. Question is - how does one replace the rubber "hood to cowl seal"? I see no way of getting any of my clutch head tools into at least 2 of those fasteners? Also, will a new seal help eliminate the issue in question 1?
I am attaching a couple progress photos since I'm kinda proud of my work on her . . . and because my wife said I should!
As always, thanks for any help with my question(s) and to all I wish a very MERRY CHRISTMAS and a healthy, safe and HAPPY NEW YEAR for 2021 . . . . I hope Santa brings you truck parts!!
The flat edge of the hood needs to be pulled tight on the cowl to hood weatherstripping. A new cowl seal should help some but I suspect the hinges may need a bit of adjustment. A Tech Tip on the hood adjustment in this forum will explain how to accomplish that. [LINK] This goes into a complete adjustment including fender alignment. If replacing the cowl weatherstripping doesn’t solve your problem, you may want yo try moving the hinges down a bit first before going into the complete alignment procedure.
A clutch head screwdriver socket on a ratchet may fit between the cowl and the hood. [Link]
Last edited by Phak1; 12/23/20203:14 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Taking the hood off is not a big deal. There are four bolts and you need a broomstick to hold it up while you remove the bolts. Support the back of the hood with wood blocks so you don't strip the threads in the hood. They're shouldered bolts and not an ACE hardware item so don't lose them.
1951 3800 1-ton "Earning its keep from the get-go" In the DITY Gallery 1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.
Thank Phil . . I did see that Tech Tip and it scared the bajeebers out of me! The hood is aligned with the fenders pretty well so I'd hate to loosen 20 bolts (if I could?) and then possibly make my issues worse?! I have clutch head screwdrivers and the ratchet set you showed . . perhap I could cut down one of the drivers and get to the bolts? Will look into that. Might be able to adjust the hood down a bit also? Will look at that also. THANKS for your thoughts and suggestions.
1Ton_tommy . . my big issue with removing the hood is lack of (competent) help . . especially during this Covid pandemic. My wife and I (due to age and health issues) have pretty well isolated ourselves for the past 9 months and most of our neighbors are women, so getting a helping set of (manly man) hands will have to wait a while. I appreciate your input and will consider the hood removal. It will certainly make the seal replacement much easier!
Again to both of you . . THANKS and Merry Christmas!!
You could weld reinforcement pieces to the hood, 1/2"x1/8" set back from the hood to cowl seal but with a new seal and good hood alignment you shouldn't need to
Hey, thanks fixite 7 ... removing the hood will probably wait until this Corona-19 is under control and I can again have a guy friend help me with it . . "she who must be obeyed" is not much for lifting, grease/oily hands or breaking a fingernail!! ;-) And, I always use a good dose of Aerokroil to loosen rust, dirt and grime before a wrenching effort.
Wishing everyone on Stovebolt . . . a SAFE, HEALTHY AND HAPPY NEW YEAR 2021!!
Thanks tclederman . . since it's also winter, even in Texas, I think March or April will be soon enough to do the hood seal work. Masks are always warn in our out of doors activities these days . . . and beside the Corona Crap, my allergies from fall ragweed to winter cedar fever to spring pollen, keep me in a mask anytime I'm outdoors. My two allergy shots once a month help but as my wonderful allergist states "Austin is the allergy capital of Texas!"
I really appreciate all of the suggestions guys . . . and once again Stovebolters are a wealth of information and a very helpful resource!!
51 2ton is that FFA blue paint?? It sure looks great !! Have you noticed how good it looks after dark with the cab markers on ? I like to turn mine on then get back and admire the lights ! Also built stainless west coast mirrors from Raneys (that dont vibrate) . Big fun for Big Bolters !!
Don't think it is FFA but maybe, the truck was a grain hauler from Hope, Nebraska?! A note in white marker on the underside of the hood says 1959 blue? I do like the cab lights at night. But, I especially like the rear lights I added . . see photo(s) below.
The left stop light is from a 40's fire truck. That red lens really pops . . and the STOP light in the center of the light bar is from an old school bus. Haven't had anyone hit me yet!!
The hood has fasteners in the centre of the hood that determine the curvature at the cowl. I personally would not mess with them. I would build up the seal thickness.
51 2 ton I am understanding better now !!! I know just who you mean by "she who must be obayed" LOL When my heart valve had to be repaired I was wanting some kind of truck parts (kinda hi-priced) "she who must be obayed said "oh well that is not so much"! So got my stuff LOL Its been 5 years and that guy knew what he was doing !!! So can now clutch the 2 big bolts anywhere !
51 2 ton Just saw your other posts I like to use those bigger bus lights for a center bright stop light too,my local junk yard will let you shop on your own. Have gone there over 50 years. They have a lot of old stuff about 80 acres,good place to find those lights !!!
YUP . . . it's always a good idea to listen to the "boss" and when she is on board with the purchase of truck parts . . . all that much better!!!
Also, after being together all day everyday for 10 months of self imposed Covid-19 isolation, I am happy to both be alive (!!) and feeling closer and even more in love with my lovely lady!
YUP . . . it's always a good idea to listen to the "boss" and when she is on board with the purchase of truck parts . . . all that much better!!!
Also, after being together all day everyday for 10 months of self imposed Covid-19 isolation, I am happy to both be alive (!!) and feeling closer and even more in love with my lovely lady!
Was she standing over you when you wrote this? Its okay, this is a safe space for us truck guys. 🤣🤣 luckily enough my wife doesnt care what i spend on my cars & trucks as long as she gets a couple road trips and vacations a year. Most of them are road trips to look at more cars for me 🤣🤣.
THE BLACK VIKING 1958 Viking 60 ~ my new toy hauler My Current fleet: 1954 chevy 3800, 1953/4 gmc 450 coleman 4x4, 1956 chevy pickup, 1958 Viking 60 Keep 'em rollin fellas!
