The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Replacing Oaky bushings on 1949 Truck.

I am attempting to change the oakie bushing and was wanting to know if the transmission needs to be removed? I tried getting the ball sleeve to sldi back but the trans mount stops that from happening. I have the mount unbolted.

You will have to do the transmission removal-disconnect shown on this page.

After doing that, you do not have to remove the transmission; but, you will have access to the bushing and seal that you want to repair/replace.

Step D - you can move ("rotate") the torque-tube downward to access that seal/bushing/etc.

I am having trouble sliding the ball cover back. The trans mount won't let me slide it back. The mount is behind the trans and ball flange. Guess it is possible that it isn't installed correctly? Thanks.

The transmission crossmember should bolt to the frame rails, so you may have to unbolt that and slide it forward to be able to drop the torque tube down. Have you loosened the packing ring at the rear of the ball cover? That should allow it to slide back, but I don't recall if it can slide back far enough to clear the crossmember with it in place.

Looking at my pictures, and based on my memory of doing this, the rear transmission support crossmember does have to be removed to drop the torque tube. You're likely to find that the rubber pads need to be replaced on the transmission support also.

Will see what I can figure out in morning. 63 and crawling around under there wears me out! I'll let you all know tomorrow. Thanks a lot.

Thanks guys. Got the tube dropped! Now to drill out pins and see if I can get old bushings ou.

You will probably find that it's almost impossible to remove the old bushing without completely dismantling the axle and driving it out the front of the torque tube with a long piece of pipe and a big hammer. Most people just drive the old bushing back far enough on the shaft to install the new one ahead of it. Someone a little more familiar with the replacement bushing will probably come along and either confirm or deny this idea.
Jerry

You only need to remove the front bushing. The hard part is installing the Oakie.

Got it all apart and back together! Front bushing came out fairly easy. Putting in the oaky bushing in was a little difficult, but got it. Did have to take out cross frame. Only one question, all the pictures in my manual show the pins that hold in the original bushing in the tube were on the bottom. Mine were on the top? Just gotta add new oil in tranny and rear end a d I'm ready to go. What is the best oil to use?Thanks again for the I formation.

Start with the 49 shop manual's recommendation (attachment).

Today's oil can have additives and too much advertising.
They range from snake oil to somewhat beneficial.
I have read about synchronizer wear due to sulfur content (GL5).
I've also read that "slick" oil can make better shifting but can be bad for old style/design bearings.
Then there is conflicting opinion/comments of super XYZ brand that has run a million miles on their trucks and cars.

I like plain conventional 90wt. found at your FLAPS.

Thanks. Hopefully by the weekend I'll have her on the road! As long as it doesn't snow.

You can get 90 wt Straight Mineral Oil for transmissions at Tractor supply which matches the specifications.