The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 52-235 Engine Removal Question

I admit I am not a mechanic, but love working on my old 52-5. I realize now that all the sheetmetal is off, this is the best time to remove the engine to paint and update. But HOW? Is there a "primer" for newbies like me on how to step by step remove the engine? I welcome any help and tips on doing this....of course I will have to know how to put it back in as well.
Thanks in advance.
Scout

It should be much easier with the sheet metal off. There are step-by-step instructions here:

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/index.htm

To me, the tricky part is connecting the hoist to the engine. The manual recommends connecting a chain to two headbolts. This works but I think there are probably better ways. Also, I think an engine leveller is critical.

Stove, thanks so much for the very quick reply. I am amazed at all the knowledge out there from folks like you. Cheers.

I think this video is from a member here.

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This is how I do it, as described in the older 1940's manuals. Forged eyebolts are readily available at any fastener supplier.

I would agree. Looping a chain over a slip hook on a hoist is a recipe for disaster when the hook slips toward the lighter end of the engine.

At a minimum. Secure the hook to the center of your chain (with bailing wire?) Also, have enough chain in your loop so the pull is as vertical as possible. A real short chain multiplies the effective weight, pulling the attachment points toward each other. You don't want to bend or break your engine attachments.

The images below show how coilover (Evan) does it.

It takes a few minutes to build a proper way to hook a safe and proper way to hook to GM esgines in a safe way. Proper alternate methods work also.

Ed

It takes a few minutes to build a proper way to hook a safe and proper way to hook to GM esgines in a safe way. Proper alternate methods work also. Use valve cover bolts to keep centered.

Ed

Thanks everyone....all of your info is great and gives me some confidence in moving forward...maybe. Can I leave the transmission in and just pull the engine? Is that harder or easier and are there complications with either I should know. Doing it by myself is a little scary. Wish some of you were closer.

We have members all over your part of the country. Just ask for help and feed em, they’ll show up.

Thanks for the idea....we have some pretty good BBQ. Already heard from 1 Bolter that may live near me...what a great group of folks.

NC Scout 52-5 I am also new at this and thinking about doing the exact same thing you are. I need to remove a 250 engine from my 65 C10 and am contemplating doing it by myself. I have never done anything like this before. Maybe we can compare notes

Hey WarEagle1,
It is daunting, but I have been amazed as a newbie to all of this how much other Bolters have chimed in with advice and links. It gives me courage, but not sure I have enough courage to push me to action! I was just looking at the truck and with all the sheetmetal off, there will never be a better time but it still is a bigger more involved job to date than I have ever done. Lets stay in touch and let me know when you start the removal...

On you question of just removing the engine and leaving the transmission in: I would recommend pulling engine and tranny as a unit. Main reason is lining up the clutch and transmission input shaft is MUCH easier with them out of the vehicle than attempting to do that when putting just the engine in. It can be done separately, but trust me, you'd need probably 2 more guys helping to accomplish it.
The recommendation of using a leveler on your hoist makes way more sense if you're leaving the front clip in place, because you'll need to tilt the engine/tranny as they come out to clear things. The same thing going back in place.
Gather up your buddies (or new ones you track down here on Stovebolt) to help out. Make a party out of the job.

Always remember to leave the trans. in high gear when mating to an engine, that allows the main shaft to be turned to mate with the clutch disc, whether in the vehicle or out. Hard to turn the main shaft otherwise.

Ed

I got some excellent help from Lugnutz about removing engine and leaving tranny. Per post above the recommendation is to take them out together. Like you I'm still trying to figure this out and whether/not I can handle it. I go back and forth.

We “Bolters” pull and reinstall engines by ourselves, all the time. I also have a ‘52 with a 235 and I just did it myself with the sheet metal on, so n my case I pulled the tranny first then the engine. If the sheet metal was off, I would pull them as a unit. Do yourself a favor and drop the rear tranny crossmember from the frame. It interferes with removing and reinstalling the rear tranny mount. I didn’t, and ended up having to loosen the rear engine mounts (after they were installed), and jacking up the transmission enough to reinstall the rear tranny mount. You’ll also be able to tilt the engine/tranny combo sooner to aide removal.

It is easier with a few buddies (leave the beer until the job is done) but if it’s just you, just take your time, have an Shop Manual to follow (or print out the pages needed) and double check your work, and you’ll be fine.

The video that DADS50 posted is excellent.

Wish I could respond to each of you individually and thank you for your advice. I have been watching all the videos and reading the information you all have provided. THANK YOU.

If anyone knows of a "manual" for what to remove from the engine before removing, I would love to read that. I know to take the starter off, but do I have to pull the harmonic balancer on the front and other similar questions.. Not sure I can post a picture on this thread, would love to share a photo of what I am facing specifically. As you can tell, I am very nervous about this project and don't know what I don't know!!!

Thanks a bunch,
Scout

To be honest it’s not necessary to pull anything off the engine itself. Hoses, wires, clutch linkage, shift hardware and remove ALL the mounting bolts/nuts and out it comes. Of course if your leaving the front sheet metal on you want to take off the fan blades. No need to pull the harmonic balancer or water pump. This is not a major job for anyone with a bit of mechanical skills. On a scale of
1-10 , I would rate it about a 3. Go slow, checking as you go and the engine will be on the stand in no time at all. Good luck

BTW you can post photos directly to your posts. Instructions are in the left margin of every page, unless your using a phone to make your posts.

You should buy a Chevrolet Truck Shop Manual. You can also get them on eBay. You will find it invaluable for working on these old trucks. In the interim you can look at the manual at Keith Hardy’s Old Online Manuals.

[Removal]

[Reinstallation]

[Edit] Keith Hardy has a fabulous collection of old literature for our old trucks and other related manuals. Here is a link for you!

Keith Hardy's Old Online hevy Manuals

For all of you who have offered advice, here is a photo...Any comments or advice, always welcome.

Nice looking truck.

In the length of time it took you to post a photo the engine could have been hanging from the cherry picker. Just sayin.

Justhorsenround, I wish I had your confidence. I loosen a few bolts then wonder if I can really do this...maybe each time it gets a little easier, but the first time is hard to jump in and "just do it"
I grew up on a farm, but never really did engine work...

That's a fine looking truck...have you done all the work to get it in that condition?

I would like to say I did it all myself, but the truth is, I have a neighbor, Gary who has a '46 Chevy. Mine had been in the barn for 9 years until Covid. He and I decided to start working on it. He had the experience, I was good at following instructions. We started the project in June. Unfortunately Gary has a home in Florida and he headed south last month, leaving me to work by myself. I could not and probably would not have taken it to the level he has convinced me to go. As he said, I can spend someone else money! Everything has been done in my garage except taking the tires from Coker and the wheels we painted to my local tire shop to mount. Next big job besides pulling the engine to paint and clean is replacing the brake master cylinder with a dual master. Living in the mountains, don't want the brakes to go out!

I'll post a photo of the truck at the beginning of the project.

Cool. Attached is a photo of mine. I've got a long ways to go. New engine, addressing undercarriage rust, and painting. I'm also going to add double cylinder and booster. The west coast mirrors are not stock, but they are how I remember the truck (it was my Grandpa's) so I am going to leave them.

If you don't mind my asking, what tires did you go with? They look like bias ply. That's what I'm planning on going with for the old look.

Nice truck, looks very solid from what I can see. Hopefully not a lot of rust, and you find the undercarriage is surface rust. Interesting you are taking it back to be like you remember your Grandpa's. I'm taking mine back to what I remember my dads looked like....well, his was used pretty hard.

As for the tires, I got the Michelin X Bias Look Radials. Liked the idea of the look, but he handling of a radial. It already is so much easier to steer. Tires were on sale at Coker Tire and Michelin had a $120 rebate if you bought 4. Coker was great in helping me with them and I got them the next day.

Hopefully you can see what I started with...

One more try with a photo...