The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Pushrod Cover Bolts Leaking

I know, I know, if the oil leaks out a bit there's some oil in it......

However, I've noticed after a 100 or 200 mile cruise, there's some oil collecting on the bottom flange of the pushrod cover (1955 235). The oil appears to be weeping past the threads and seems to be worse on the bottom bolts where the oil sits. I'd like to remove these bolts to clean and dry them. I plan to use a thread sealer for the re-installation.

Any recommendations for a good thread sealer?

It looks like you are running some type of washers on your bolts. If they are split washers I would get rid of them and use plain flat washers. Oil will leak past a split washer.

The gasket is what seals the bolts. If there is oil weeping from the bolts, the gasket is not sealing. I would replace the gasket and when doing so, insure the pushrod cover is straight, the drain holes are clear (so it’s not pooling on the bottom) and don’t over tighten the bolts. Just get the bolts snug then tighten them 1/4 to 1/2 a turn additional. You can always snug it bit more if you have a leak but if its overtightened, you’ll distress the cover and you’ll have to start over.

I only use gasket cement on gaskets that I want to keep in place and won’t stay by themselves and resort to gasket sealer/maker only after I tried everything else and still can’t get it to seal.

One more thing. If you use silicone gasket maker, make sure you read the instructions carefully. They tell you to apply a bead, compress the cover until it starts to squeeze out, then let it sit for and hour, then tighten an additional 1/2 turn. That is assuming the temperature is at 70 degrees. I have had better luck letting it sit a bit longer to let it set up, then tightening.

I used it on my water pump which has Pre ‘68 Dave’s 235 adaptor plate to put the water pump in the correct position for my ‘52 3100. I this case, I felt that an additional 1/2 turn was not going to be tight enough to secure the pump. I waited 24 hours making sure it fully cured before tightened up the pump

Those washers are original ,teardrop shape and the oil looks like it is coming from the top of the valve cover possibly were the vent hole(slit ) .

My 261 has a couple of small weeps like that as well, around the valve cover and push rod cover. Simple Green and a throw-away rag does a great job of removing oil.

These engines can leak at the holes that the coil bracket bolts on to. Clean the holes & put some RTV on the bolts. If the bolt holes are not used, put short bolts in the holes.
After glueing the gasket to the side cover I always put a layer of RTV along the lower edge of the cover. These covers are seldom flat enough to seal good. A little RTV on the lower bolts is a good idea too.
George

If you have the 235 with the 4 screw valve cover, you can make spreader bars like I've done and it will never leak again. Get the valve cover surface very straight, however. Use 3/16" thick aluminum, make a pattern and cut with a saber saw and file smooth if needed. Bend in the center so that both ends point downward and of course do one for each screw. Image attached.

Am I seeing hex head bolts on your side cover? I thought you had a Stovebolt engine in your truck.
Correct bolts should take a flat blade screw driver and have a flat washer on them which does not come off.

Gentlemen,

Thanks to all of you for sharing your expertise on sealing up the pushrod cover. I never removed or installed that cover so I'll have to remove it and see exactly what hardware has been used by the PO.For give me Father (Carl), for I have sinned.........

Well, I learned something new today. I have seen those, so where might I find those fasteners?

Today, I removed one of the hex head bolts from the pushrod cover to see what was residing behind it. Much to my surprise it was an internal twisted tooth lock washer! IMHO, that's a guarantee to weep oil in that application.

I also spoke to an old timer at a Chevrolet dealership. He was familiar with the 'Stovebolts' for the pushrod cover. His recommendation was to find large slotted machine screws w/o a flat washer. He also recommend a little RTV to seal up the screw heads.

Anyone else want to chime in with a recommendation? I'm sure there are many ways to skin this cat........

Andy, I posted a suggestion in your swap meet thread.

Does all of the side cover bolts have a lock washer underneath .If so someone may have put them there if they are small enough to fit inside the gasket hole to prevent the cover from being over tightened .I have seen transmission gaskets (cork) with metal inserts so the gasket doesn’t get to tight.

Thanks klh!

KEVINSKI-yes, all the bolts have that internal star washer and they are too big to fit in the hole in the gasket as they ride between the bolt head and the pushrod cover.

Thanks,

I think I misunderstood were the washers were but either way they are not needed but I think a set of those stovebolt slotted screws would work as they did originally as long as you get your cover straight it looks good in the picture ,New cork gasket.