The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop making a 383 stroker

i got a 350 bored out 2 a 355 wat do i have 2 do b sides put in a 400 crank ?

you need to use 400 rods as well

and a 400 harmonic balancer....

if you need info on 383 build go to a speed shop or good automotive machine shop...doc

but is it goning 2 still be a 383 since its bored out?an the motors been built very strong it was a mud truck motor would i lose any power ?

350 block w/400 crank----std bore=377,, .030 oversize=383, .060 os=388

its been bored .30 if i go .30 more to a .60 would that be kinda 2 far ?

only bore if the cylinders need it, some will run hot @.060 overbore

wat kinda power could i espect ?

prolly about the same horsepower as a 350, but much more torque, esp at low rpm

Call the guys at Jegs or Summit Racing, they can tell you everything you need to know.

its got a 488 cam in it now i mihg put more cam in im gone put 2 4s with a high rise intake 4mrm summit im tryin 2 build a truck mostly 2 beat imports an vettes an wat ever d h@ll else ets bside me yall think i could build dat motor aan put it in a 64 chevy truck short bed an beat a zo6 vettte ?

ZO6 can be beat. It just boils down to having the "right stuff"!!

IMHO, if you want to do a 383 right, don't waste your time with SBC 400 rods. They're too short and place too much pressure against the outside of the cylinder bore. Spend the extra dollars to install a set of 5.7 inch rods or 6 inch rods. The 383 that is planned for my 55 has 6 inch rods with 10:1 flats, comp 284 extreme energy cam and a Victor manifold. The machining process to run 5.7 or 6.0 rods is to grind a little off each of the even poitioned rod (just below the rod bolt) to allow the rod to clear the cam lobe. When you degree your cam in, you'll find that the difference between the 5.7 and 6.0 rod is that the piston will stay at TDC for 3-4 degrees longer on the degree wheel, compressing the mixture for a longer duration. I imagine that that duration increase by 5-7 degrees over the stock length SBC 400 rod. IMHO, do yourself a favor and don't cheap out when buliding a 383I

I'll go on record as thinking you won't be able to do it.

According to an ad I saw today $13,000 will buy the 505 horse 427 cubic inch LS7 motor they put in the current Z06 'vettes. Start by ordering one of those. It might be cheaper to get a 572 instead.

Beat a Z06 Corvette doing what? Top speed? That's nearly 200 mph. Drag strip? Its an 11 second car. Cornering? You're dreaming, the 'vette does better than 1 G.

With enough horsepower and traction you might beat the 'vette drag racing, but building an 11 second pickup is going to take some work and you probably won't be driving it on the street any longer.

Maybe you think you can beat a Z06 off-roading? That will be easy, just persuade a Z06 driver to take their $70,000 car off road and race it.

I hope you weren't serious and I'm not bursting any bubbles, because unless you are prepared to spend a serious truck load of money (enough to buy a Z06?) you are going to be disappointed!

If I've misread you, and you are both serious and have the pocket book to do this, please post lots of pictures and tell us about the project. I for one would be thrilled to see it done.

The 572 runs right at about $13500 for the 620 horse version, same as Stacey David's Copperhead, the 572R 720 horse runs just a litle under $19000. The next edition Z06, the Z06 Blue Devil is reported to be over 800 horse, and run somewhere around $100000.

Is Calloway building that one? Doesn't matter its a little out of my price range.

My '85 L98 cost me less than the 572 and outperforms 99% of every pickup ever built as long as we stay on pavement and keep the load to a single passenger.

well i aint got 2 worry bout the blue deivil round here cause aint nobody in my town got dat kinda money old sub im do wit a 383 stroker an a 64 chevy short bed an im talkin bout drag racing an ima do it cheap come 2 think of it i dont think ive seen a zo6 round here ether it might not do it when i first get it on the road but when i completly finshed its gone b supercharged an wit a 500or more shot of NOS b4 i put a supercharger on im gone run a high rise intake wit 2 4s bare headers an the fuel cell batt an 2 nos bottles r gone 2 placed behind the rear tire im gone run a pretty tall gear prob over a 4:11.1 an a 5 or six speed trans or auto not sure yet an im gone lose every bit of weight i can

I have helped build an 11 sec. 1961 Chevy truck. Be prepared to not drive your truck for a while. We built a 350 chevy with a 6-71 blower. The engine made all the power we needed, but we could not get traction without tubbing the truck and putting a ladder bar suspension under it. Once we got the thing to hook, we could not keep transmissions in it. We tried several built TH350's, TH400's, and finally spent some bucks on a race built powerglide. This transmission has lasted for years.

Also, we ran 4.88 gears with 33" tall tires that were 21.5" wide.

My freind drove this truck to school almost everyday for 3 years. Now the truck has a 4-link, 498 cu.in. big block on three stages of nitrous. The truck runs low 9 sec. 1/4 mile times. Not bad for a truck that weighs close to 5000lbs.

Thanks Phil I think you proved my point.

Building an old truck to beat something like a Z06 Corvette isn't a cheap or trivial project, and straight-line acceleration may be the only performance measure where its possible without a truck load of money.

Having a good idea what you want to accomplish when modifying a vehicle is the right way to start. But one of the reasons is so you can scope the project and think through what it will take to achieve the objective.

One of the spectacular achievements of the Z06 Corvette is getting that performance package in a streetable car. Doing the same starting with an old truck is not going to be easy or cheap.

The Z06 Blue Devil is going to be a 100% GM built car. They're shooting for the SuperCar buyers, Ferraris and Lamborghinis. I find that odd, as the current Z06 already outclasses those anyway.

53GMCPhil was it a long bed or short? mines a long bed now but im thinkin bout makin a short bed but im bout 2 throw that idea out my doors an front clip inner feders radotor suportt everthin i took 2 b blasted 2day did yall have to narrow the fram ? i think ill have 2 go mesure cuz i dont rember u can tube out the bed an not have to mess wit the fram an run pretty big meats an he steal drive it on the road didnt he an keep in mind im not tryin 2 make a daily driver nor a full on show truck or drag i wanta be able 2 go to big an small shows an show my a$$ when i leave an im trying 2 build somethin that beat em 4rm stop light 2 stop light on the bullavard an old sub u said i couldnt do it an the u said i could but it would take alot of cash i can get my hands on a 454 would this b better ? im more determand 2 do it now cuz so many folk not jus on here have told me i cant

If the engine is not going to be behind the cab then don't mess with a Z06 or anything that can put the power to the pavement. An Alston or Morrisson back half chassis clip will help but a pickup is really not the drag machine that an old station wagon was with the weight at the rear and up high for good transfer. The two best street sleepers I've had were a 350hp 327 in a 66 Corvair (Crown Engineering kit) and a 400 sbc in Pontiac Fiero. Both were light weight and had the engine/transaxle weight right on the rear tires. Hardly any tire smoke to impress the guys at the Sonic drive in but really tough off the line and that's what wins races.

We used a shortbed truck and back-halved the truck (replace the rear frame section with a back half kit. I forgot to mention that we also broke many rearends. Luckily we know an NHRA prostock racer that made us a deal on a rearend out of his car with 40 spline axles. A stock 12-bolt or Ford 9" could not handle the power and weight of the truck when it hooked.

Also, your posts are very hard to follow due to lack of punctuation.

I don't think anyone is trying to tell you it can't be done. I think everyone is trying to simply make you understand the amount of work, planning, dollars & cents, etc that's involved in doing something like this. Anything can be accomplished if you throw a big enough wallet at it and spend enough time working on it.

LONGBOX from what I've read the reason the ZR1 was not a success was because the Supercar buyers didn't want to own a Chevrolet. Won't this new Corvette have the same problem?


REBEL, its not so much that I don't think it can be done, its that I know it can't be done easily. You've narrowed the target quite a bit by saying you want to win a stop light to stop light race.

I know you don't actually expect to encounter a Z06, but let's use it as an example of your competition anyway. This car weights just over 3000 pounds, has near perfect weight distribution and computerized traction control.

Those guys have trouble getting the tires to spin, not because it doesn't have enough power, 505 horse is plenty for that, its because the computer controls application of power to the tires to keep from wasting any spinning tires.

You are driving a short box pickup (I think you'd do better with a long box) with a heavy front weight bias. Go with a 454 and 4.88 gears and you'll easily spin your tires stop light to stop light.

Coilover has a good suggestion, put the motor in the bed. Maybe run that 454 with a Toronado/El Dorado front drive setup, and then you'll have a head start on the traction problem.

Drag racing a pickup you've given yourself a huge handicap. Making it competitive, even just light to light, against an 11 second car is not going to be easy. If my skepticism motivates you, great! Go for it!

But as I said, please post pictures and tell us what you are doing.

I own both a 454 powered pickup and a small block Corvette. If we're racing on pavement I'll choose the 'vette every time. Pulling a trailer I always choose the pickup.

Completely off-topic for a sec but in addition to this a supercar buyer wants exclusivity not something that looks like a sportscar you can encounter at just about any traffic light. Pricetag alone doesn't make it a supercar. Drive a relatively cheap Ferrari even an older 308 down the streets and heads turn. Drive a Vette and most people simply ignore it.

Now back on topic. Like OldSub I'd like to see this done and hope you start a journal somewhere along with pictures with your progress. I just do hope you take safety into account too. Building it to go fast is one thing. Making sure it is capable of stopping and allowing you to have control over the vehicle is a separate issue and equally if not more important.

http://www.caranddriver.com/carnews/11836/spied-2009-corvette-stingray.html
Putting the engine in the back would work for traction, espesially using the Toronado TH425, but you would have to use a BOP pattern engine, as the 454 wouldn't bolt up to it. Better yet, get one from a mid-'70s front drive GMC motor home. They use a 470 cid Olds engine. No replacement for displacement!

You can modify the BOP pattern to take the Chevy motor. I watched my brother do it once out in the driveway to put a Cadillac Turbo 400 in a Chevy pickup. Going that route opens the door to the 502/572/640 series of serious motors.

That's when I let my inner 17-year-old do the driving. Then at least the cops pay attention!

I would use the 500 inch Cad if I used the Toronado/Eldo rear engine approach.

Oldsub, I think you're right. IIRC, my junkyard TH350 was a "dual pattern", which meant it had two pairs of top holes. The lower & middle hole pairs are the same between Chev-V8 and BOP patterns.
mv

I have seen the dual pattern GM automatics, but the Toronado/Eldorado/late Riviera TH425 isn't your average tranny. It's a beast all on it's own. Never used with the Chevy pattern engine, so it doesn't have the upper holes. I suppose that you could make it work, but why not just use the engine it's designed for? Beides, I've driven a '76 Eldo with the 500 inch engine. Let me tell you, that thing accellerated like a rocket!

i dont need a 454 2 spin tires from stop light 2 stop light.my 283 with a granny gear 4sp will do that. its main purpose would be 2 beat imports mustangs .being i dont think ive seen a z06 round here. ill most likely build my chasie. an get my body work done an then ill paint it. an build the buttom end an some of the top end. an get it on the road an add more an more porformace parts ove time. i might ven add some fiberglass body parts or watever

I don't believe the TH425 was ever offered as a dual pattern trans, but I do know they can be modified to take the Chevy motor.

The problem with the 500 Cadillac is its limited potential. You can't make them much bigger using readily available parts, while the Chevy design can be bought as a crate motor up to 640 that I've seen.

The beauty of the Cadillac is the torque it makes in basically stock form. Looking for low-budget performance they are great. I have two of them sitting in my shop for future projects.

Rebel your tire spin with the 283 illustrates the challenge you face. The difficulty you already have connecting the power to the ground is going to get worse when you increase the power.

The physics just do not favor a pickup against the fast imports or Mustangs either. The weight bias means the pickup is going to struggle to get the same traction as these cars you want to race.

my truck is long bed 4 got 2 add walla go .an its not an uncontrllable spin its when i tac an dump

i jus found a 500 cad motor built 4 a mud truck. $500 says it has plenty of power but hes prob sold it . wat cars years modles do i need 2 look for to find a 500 cad motor?

The 1970 500 inch eldo engine was the king-moose. 550lb/ft torque & 400 HP. The 71 & 72 were lower compression, but still made lots of tire smoke.
The heads were revised sometime around 74 or 75 which brought the power down alot.
The shorter stroke 472 engines were plenty powerful too.
MV

The 1970 500 inch eldo engine was the king-moose. 550lb/ft torque & 400 HP. The 71 & 72 were lower compression, but still made lots of tire smoke.
The heads were revised sometime around 74 or 75 which brought the power down alot.
The shorter stroke 472 engines were plenty powerful too.
MV

2 more things no one's mentioned about doing the 383 conversion, the 400 crank will not fit into a 350 block as is. The main journals need to be turned down to the 350 size. Also, you will have to use a 400 flywheel/flexplate due to the external balance. There was also a mention of using a blower or nitrous or even both, not with aa stock 400 crank. It won't hold up. The 400 crank is cast, not forged. You'll want to run a forged crank wiht either a blower or nitrous, along with a 4 bolt main block, forged pistons, and forged rods. Running cast parts,...can you say "Grenade"?
And one more thing, most of those imports are all show, no go. I've driven many of the so called "hot imports", so far, not impressed. Had a guy in a while back with a turbo charged Honda, supposedly the fastest import in town. It could barely pull itself along. There have been exeptions, I have driven a Supra that would do an honest 160+, and some of the Nissan 300Z and Mazda RX7s are pretty hot, but for the most part, it's all bluff.

Regarding the Cadillac 500 motors, some of the very latest ones are fuel injected. Might be harder to adapt, and probably not the answer for an 11-second truck, but might be interesting.

Hanging out on the Corvette forums its not unusual to read about broken stroker motors. When it comes time to rebuild they seem like a good idea. Once you start pushing them a little it seems many of them don't last.