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#1385603 11/23/2020 5:01 PM
Joined: Nov 2020
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Hi Everyone, I wanted to take the time to summarize my findings after everyone’s input in the hopes it helps others too. AS IS, this truck has a great stance and I want to leave it that way AND daily drive it.. But looks like it doesn’t allow for compromise.. nono I have a bit painful decision ahead.

Tires
They simply DO NOT make radials for 6” wide rims.. Staying with bias ply it will look incredible.. BUT it will not have adequate traction for taking turns like a daily driver in all weather conditions. :can't look: Bias ply does not adhere to the road like radial and will have less contact patch. This leaves me with buying new rims or basically keeping the entire truck as is.

Rear and front axles
I did not realize the traction issues with the existing rear setup. Apparently its mean for slow moving with heavy loads.. In less than ideal conditions, like my friends 65 pickup, that back end is going to hop and spin. straight lines 35mph - ok, but bumps and turns, add bad weather, I could be asking for an accident. :can't look: Significant mods will be needed to make it a DD.. like adding 4 link..

The front end, steering and suspension will be difficult in daily driving.. again in straight lines 35mph - ok, but bumps and turns, add bad weather, I could be asking for an accident. :can't look:

Engine
Although this amazingly runs, drives and stops..Will need a complete look over along with drive-train and potentially babbit bearing replacement. FORGET hwy driving. This will cost at least a few thousand, ideally with the DS being sent out, looked over etc.. Rebuilt WELL — 261s cannot be found, 292s can, but will require replacing remaining drivetrain — not original. I want more power than a stock 235..

Whew.. this leaves me with staying original OR significant modification. Should I add 4 link suspension to the rear frame or go with another chassis? If I am going to so that.. I might as well go 4WD. Not easy decisions! I don’t know about you guys, but I walked into this thinking I could really preserve its history and feel like I am committing a sin in some ways if I change it too much. cry BUT at the same time, I want to use it and have fun with it!! Any input appreciated!


'38 1.5ton; "The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips"
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 268
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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These trucks were driven in all sorts of weather conditions way back when. With bias ply tires. In my opinion you need to compensate for bad roads and weather and not be taking corners at 50 mph or excessive speed on snow or ice. Just my 2 cents


1949 gmc 1-ton
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'Bolter
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As mentioned in the other thread, I would keep it all original. I would also use it as well as it could be used and leave it at that. Once restored or at least fixed up, you will have a well desired, all original truck that you can at least get some use out of it. It may even surprise you.

But to add a little extra, I would not depend on it for everyday general use. Even thoroughly modified, I still would not want to use it in harsh everyday conditions, especially in your heavily trafficked area that can have harsh winter conditions to boot.

My opinion anyway, lol.


'60-'72 Chev/GMC Fan
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T
'Bolter
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Honestly it depends on how you’ll use it. I can’t imagine daily driving a 1938 anything, let alone a 1.5 ton!! It’s got no AC, probably no heater, windshield wipers... maybe. It doesn’t just lack in suspension and tires, it lacks a lot of things really. It can be done though... you’ll just have to drive it differently and more carefully than you would a modern truck. Now if you mean by daily driving just to work and back and you only live 5 miles from work and you take a backroad, shouldn’t have many problems. But downtown city stop and go traffic with a crashbox? Its possible, but I sure as heck wouldn’t want to do that!! I think to make it a good DD you’ll have to modernize some things. You can do it piecemeal one thing at a time. I’d start with brakes!!! I’m all for originality but the single reservoir original system leaves no room for error... one tiny leak and you haven’t checked it for a week and then you need to stop in a hurry and the pedal goes soft... no thanks. Tires are important too, but remember before radials everyone drive on bias. They do handle different than a radial but it’s something you can get used to. I have Daily driven a jeep for years before with super swamper bias tires... I never got into an accident because of them. I’d say if money is too tight to upgrade the rims and tires then just get some cheap bias tires and run them for a while as you save for the radials and new rims. That’s what I’m doing. Engine as long as your on flat ground and not going up mountains should be ok for a bit. When you do change the engine you’d want to change out the crashbox for something better too.


My to do list for my 1940 is like this: brakes, like new used set of bias tires, wiring harness, turn signals brake lights, third row suburban seat with integrated seatbelts, then drive it as is a bit. Then a phase two where I’ll replace the engine trans and regear the axle (5.43). That will be a big project basically replacing the entire driveline. Not sure what motor I’ll go with yet I have a 261 but it’s stuck, the original 216 Babbitt still runs great but for me going to town means going over a 7% grade mountain!!! There is a longer scenic route around the mountain that the 216 would do in the short term.

Anyway mine is for fun and puttering around hauling hay fence panels lumber, etc. it will do big truck duties occasionally but they will all be lightweight compared to what the truck was originally designed for.

If you truly want a DD that does it all and does it well, you may want to look into a chassi swap or keep your current frame and chassis and upgrade things as necessary. You don’t have to do it all at once, but you do want to put the safety items first ahead of the comfort things, although a heater in the winter would become a safety issue if the windows can’t defrost..

And I don’t see the need to 4 link that massive rear axle. I’m normal driving conditions it should not be wheel hopping or anything else like that.

Last edited by Tony292; 11/23/2020 5:44 PM.
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Thanks very much for the input guys!! Correct Tony, I do not have a heater! I was surprised! I like your plan BTW. You get best of both worlds! Thanks Bill and Johnny. The trouble is I almost need a vehicle that will drive better than my vette in bad conditions! drive So I am deciding that route or redo..


'38 1.5ton; "The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips"
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 330
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
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On the question of to keep stock or modify, I feel it is your truck, your time, and your money, do with it as you wish.

If someone thinks you are doing the wrong thing, ask them how much they are willing to pay you for your property.

Then you will need to decide to sell or ignore them.

Keep on truckin'.


Mac :{)

1962 K10 short step side, much modified for rally
1969 T50 fire truck, almost nos, needs a few things
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'Bolter
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Thats true man. I have been just a little stuck thinking it made its way from '38 to now in very good shape. Definitely want to honor the history.. may put a small plaque behind the seat or something with the history so its not lost.. It was a fire - water truck and probably involved in saved some lives


'38 1.5ton; "The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips"
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T
'Bolter
'Bolter
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You can always do things to “hide” your mods. You can find a 261 they do pop up for sale here once in a while. If you install it it will look close to a 216. Also the transmission, you can get a sm420 to swap in and with the right bellhousing keep your stomp starter and it will bolt up to the 261. There is a mod you have to do that’s on this forum to be able to bolt your clutch pedal up to the 420. But the 420 will look very similar to your current trans but with synchronizes it will shift much better and 99% wouldn’t even know.... he’ll you’d have to crawl under the truck and know exactly what you’re looking for to tell the difference. If you want to keep the original look inside, keep the original seat but install seatbelts. There are many ways you can fool the 99% and make upgrades that “look” original.

Joined: Feb 2004
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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It would be a real shame to butcher up another all-original truck with some history when there are probably half a dozen project trucks within a hundred miles of you, gathering dust because somebody ran out of money, skill, motivation, or all three, somewhere along the way. I'd suggest leaving this one in "as found" condition and searching Craigslist or some similar site for one of those vehicles to use as a project. If you find something in the late 1950's or newer, it will accept a "belly button" (everybody's got one) V8 conversion and an add-on independent front suspension and rack and pinion steering from a sub-compact pony car. That way a failed project will be rescued from the scrappers, and the overall cost will be reduced by taking over somebody else's butcher job at pennies on the dollar.
Jerry


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'Bolter
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Thanks, appreciate this input. BTW, around here.. you cant find these trucks.. or no one is advertising any. I had to go midwest.

Last edited by 38_1.5Ton; 11/23/2020 8:51 PM.

'38 1.5ton; "The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips"
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'Bolter
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You’re right, they are drying up. The ones that do show up are increasing greatly in price. I lucked out and got my 1940 a year ago for 2300, running and with the interior finished. Now I’m seeing people wanting twice the price for something trashed.
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Last edited by Tony292; 11/23/2020 10:34 PM.
Joined: Mar 2004
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M
'Bolter
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Get a beater for your DD, put the 38 on the road stock for now (least expensive way to get it on the road) and drive it to see what you like and dislike about it. Driving a 38 1-1/2 ton truck as a DD in the Baltimore area will not be fun...keep the Vette for that, it won't rust due to road salt!

If you decide to make the 38 a modern DD your still going to need a beater as this project will take tons of money and years to complete.

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1956 8400 Wrecker w/Holmes 525
1956 9200 Tractor w/Allison Automatic
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1953 Willys M38A1 Fire Jeep
1978 Jeep CJ-5 Navy Jeep
1984 Jeep CJ7
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Big Bolt Forum Moderator
Big Bolt Forum Moderator
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I drive my 58 2 ton around, but it is big enough, that I can't fit in just any parking spot, normally not a huge deal. While it is a lot newer than your 38, I still do not drive it like I drive my wife's 2008 Subaru. As stated by others, I would try to leave the 38 as stock as possible, and just drive it carefully.


Mike
1955 Chevy 6400 ex-flatbed (no bed now!) sold September 2023
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