Did a search read all the searches , I adjusted the hood,by the steps ,outlined in the manual. had the inside hood hinges bolts loose the hood support disconnected the out side bolts loose, a 4x4 under the front. Had the hood down in the middle ,had a good fit on the cowl great fit on the front, tightened all the bolts inside and out.It looked great , then I bolted the hood support back up, and all went to h--l. It lifted the back of the hood plus pushed it forward about a half inch .Doesn't matter about the adjustment on the hood support I tried it up all the way down all the all same difference. Could the old support spring just be to stiff ?
I have the same problem. In my case, there's noticeable play in the hinges and the springs use the slack to push the hood up and forward. New hinges would help and vendors such as Chevs of the Forties sell them. I chose to install a hood prop and leave the springs on the shelf.
You could try to tighten the hinges by installing new shoulder bolts, available from Classic Parts and most other vendors.
Last edited by Phak1; 11/18/20208:11 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ā59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Wonder if it would be possible to shorten up on the hood supports and re drill a hole in arm so its not exerting so much spring force on hood. Just a thought
Wonder if it would be possible to shorten up on the hood supports and re drill a hole in arm so its not exerting so much spring force on hood. Just a thought
It would be better to address the cause of the problem rather than mess with something that probably worked well when new. What you're proposing would be a cut and try process and getting it right would be very difficult. You'll probably wind up with a worse problem. Rivets and hinge bolts can be replaced if needed, but if the holes are hogged out, it would be better to get new hinge assemblies. JMO
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
A few months back I had an issue where the rivets (that Gord&Fran are talking about) were loose. I was able to tighten them using a punch I made on my lathe (but could easily be duplicated with a grinder). The idea was a tapered punch to expand and compress the rivet. I used my 20 ton press to tighten the rivets, but Iām sure backing the rivet on a vice and using. BFH would do the trick.
Here is the [POST] if you want to read the process.
Last edited by Phak1; 11/19/20201:59 AM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ā59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
When you have the hood up on the 4x4, push down hard on one corner while snugging the bolts on the hinge. Do the same to the opposite corner. Remove the 4x4 then slowly push down on the front of your hood. You'll see the rear lip tighten and almost bind with the cowl. The cowl windlace has to be in there! The tighter you can get that rear lip, the better. Some of these hoods really need good push down to tighten them up. Sometimes, gentle isn't the way. And don't forget, if you can move the hinges as far down or back as you need, you can elongate the hinge mount holes to remedy that. On mine, everything worked fine except that the drivers side hinge needed to go back towards the rear of the vehicle about 3/8". So I removed the hinge and lengthened the three holes. Reattached, resealed, readjusted and no gaps and a flat hood.
Sorry about that it's a1949 1/2 ton pickup, and the manual is a Chevrolet Truck Shop Manual 1948 t0 1953. And I did install new shoulder bolts when I installed the hood. Think I'll remove the hood check the play in the hinges and elongate the hinge mount holes.
I used a ratchet strap between the fenders. Slightly cinched down. Then tightened the inside bolts.
Were these the original support springs? If so there should be no need to modify. If they are remanufactured then all bets are off. Other factors are , has the front clip been totally disassembled? Were all the body shims replaced? Or is this just a simple, took a hood off the fit before and now reinstalling it?
Sometimes there are body shims under the cab mount shackles, and maybe under radiator support. This may or may not pertain to your situation.
Easy to notice when you have a big gap at the rear of the fenders, small gap at the front of the fenders. Not as pronounced at the hood to cowl. But if you notice it there, you need shims.
I have mine lined up, except it is sitting high near the hood latch...is there a plate that should sit on top of the hood latch panel? I do have shims under the radiator mount as well, but it appears that it does uniquely lift up the hood, it seems to be lifting whole front as they are all bolted together. Am I missing something here please?
