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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 13
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I have been attempting to adjust the door latches, striker plates and door handle remotes on my 53 Suburban. All of these items are original to this truck. I’m confused on the operating mechanics. Do the doors open by lifting the interior door handles up or by pushing them down? On every other vehicle that I have ever owned, you would pull up the inside handle to open. On this truck I have to push down. Also what is the function of pulling the handle up? Seems like it should lock the door? The drivers door latch doesn’t catch the door when closed no matter the position of the striker plate adjustment. It worked a few times, but then I was unable to open the door from inside. I had to roll the window down and use the outside door handle to open it. I wanted to post here to get some input prior to purchasing all new latches, striker plates and door handle remotes. Recommendations for quality replacement parts and vendor would be appreciated too. Any help would be great!

Last edited by 1inxs; 10/30/2020 6:26 PM.

1953 Chevrolet Suburban
1958 Rambler American
1963 Studebaker GT hawk R1
1964 Studebaker Avanti R1
1968 Pontiac Firebird 400
1981 Avanti II
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Tclederman, is the door handle remote where the change was made? I want to purchase a new set to replace the old. Everything that I can find lists them as 1947 to early 1955. I want to purchase quality and correct. Thanks for responding!


1953 Chevrolet Suburban
1958 Rambler American
1963 Studebaker GT hawk R1
1964 Studebaker Avanti R1
1968 Pontiac Firebird 400
1981 Avanti II
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
Someone else will have to give you an answer.

I dimly recall that that the side door door-latch/opener remote is installed in a different orientation for push vs pull?

Let's hope that someone posts an answer/description.

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'Bolter
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Since mine isn't a points show truck, I installed the handles in the most ergonomically comfortable position for me. This ended up being a pull position, but you can install them 180-degrees for push if you prefer.
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20190727_153121 (Small).jpg (32.42 KB, 167 downloads)


1951 Chevy Panel Truck
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"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
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As for purchasing new, if you took a survey, most would say the new stuff is of poor quality. Some have to do major modifications to get it them work. A search for some NOS latches would be a better course of action. That's what I ended up doing with my doors. I found some NOS latches on eBay.

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'Bolter
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I won't mess with the factory (crappy) design door latches for a microsecond. They can be downright dangerous for the passenger who doesn't have a steering wheel to grab onto when they pop open in a corner. You can forget them staying shut in an accident. The Alston Trique Latch or similar design is so superior a comparison is impossible. A bit $$$ but you will wonder why you didn't install them the day you brought the truck home.


Evan
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I appreciate your knowledge on the repro latches. I will seek NOS. My door strikers are a formed one piece and I notice a lot of repro have a riveted lower catch. Some claiming to be NOS also have a riveted lower catch. Is there one better than the other in regards to the striker? Which is preference, formed or riveted? Thank you


1953 Chevrolet Suburban
1958 Rambler American
1963 Studebaker GT hawk R1
1964 Studebaker Avanti R1
1968 Pontiac Firebird 400
1981 Avanti II
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 678
M
'Bolter
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Posts: 678
Originally Posted by 1inxs
My door strikers are a formed one piece and I notice a lot of repro have a riveted lower catch. Some claiming to be NOS also have a riveted lower catch. Is there one better than the other in regards to the striker? Which is preference, formed or riveted? Thank you

The "formed" or "riveted" are actually for different years. The formed units are for early AD with turndown outside handles, the riveted are for 52-55 AD with pushbutton handles. They are not interchangeable; since your Suburban is a '53 you must use the riveted style.

When I swapped later-model doors onto my panel I had to hybridize the two styles to make the doors latch.
From Left: Early style (47-51), late style (52-55), hybrid.
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20180608_141058 (Small) (2).jpg (64.89 KB, 129 downloads)


1951 Chevy Panel Truck
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My 1953 push button handle has a formed strike plate. Pictures attached!
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BBE63A26-4131-4C9D-9C85-0812A71FB4DC.jpeg (150.63 KB, 126 downloads)


1953 Chevrolet Suburban
1958 Rambler American
1963 Studebaker GT hawk R1
1964 Studebaker Avanti R1
1968 Pontiac Firebird 400
1981 Avanti II
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 13
1
New Guy
New Guy
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Posts: 13
Originally Posted by MiraclePieCo
Since mine isn't a points show truck, I installed the handles in the most ergonomically comfortable position for me. This ended up being a pull position, but you can install them 180-degrees for push if you prefer.
That’s good information! I wondered if the door remote could be mounted 180 degree rotated to change the operation. Your picture is an example of the many options for designing the new armrests. Thank you


1953 Chevrolet Suburban
1958 Rambler American
1963 Studebaker GT hawk R1
1964 Studebaker Avanti R1
1968 Pontiac Firebird 400
1981 Avanti II
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 678
M
'Bolter
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Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 678
Originally Posted by 1inxs
My 1953 push button handle has a formed strike plate. Pictures attached!

Lots of things got changed by backyard mechanics on these trucks over the decades, including doors, strikers, bodies - even titles. Is your 53 really a 53 or did it get retitled sometime in its life due to a cab change? Perhaps this is the reason you're having problems. You mentioned that at one point the door stuck shut and you were unable to open it from the inside. This is a very typical condition of mismatched latches and strikers. It happened to me too, until I modified my striker plates so my 49 cab would accept 52 doors.


1951 Chevy Panel Truck
Joined: Aug 2008
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Yeah, it’s an original unmolested 1953. The door parts are original and quite warn over the years. I was able to locate a NOS pair of formed door strike plates as original, NOS pair of door remotes and NOS pair door latches all on eBay. I finished installing them and now all works as new.
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1953 Chevrolet Suburban
1958 Rambler American
1963 Studebaker GT hawk R1
1964 Studebaker Avanti R1
1968 Pontiac Firebird 400
1981 Avanti II
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 775
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Bondo Artiste
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Posts: 775
Nice work! NOS is the only way to go on door hardware.


~ Phillip
1949 GMC Suburban - 10 year project
1952 Pontiac Chieftain Convertible straight 8 hydramatic
1945 GMC half ton truck - Driver
1946 Chevy COE - Might restore one day...
1959 GMC Half ton long bed NAPCO
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 306
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'Bolter
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*** My 53 Suburban has the orig. formed strikers. The riveted type will not work at all on my 53 Suburban. I purchased a set of nos riveted type but had to reinstall the orig. formed strikers in order to get either door to close & latch.


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