The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Tons 'o Fun 1 ton disc brakes

I'm sure this has been discussed at some point in the past, but can anyone point me in the right direction to a source on changing from drum to disc brakes on these 1 tons. Plenty of options for the 1/2 tons. Thanks.

Why is everyone obsessed with converting everything including the kid's coaster wagon to disc brakes? If drums were as obsolete and dangerous as everybody seems to think, there wouldn't be any of these trucks left to restore- - - -they would all have been wrecked before they were 5 years old! A 1 ton is a commercial vehicle intended to run all day with a maximum cargo load, or more likely, a pretty good overload. I don't know of many, if any stovebolters who intend to run around on a routine basis with 2,000 pounds of anything on their trucks. Stopping a more or less unloaded truck with the original brakes should be a moot point!
Jerry

Right on Jerry

Well, if SeeBee has my problem of finding parts, guess I can understand. For my H072, I found new shoes and slave rebuild kits, but have not been able to find brake hardware kits or the adjuster yet. Mine is 13" x 2 1/2" shoes with the drum E brake on trans, so a bit funky.

I’m keeping my drums because I was able to find an NOS drum to replace a drum that could not be used. The rest of the drums could be turned to keep them within spech
I’m going to need shoes which I understand are hard to get....or I get the originals re-lined.

52_Ton -- Getting your originals relined is about your only option unless you find some good used ones from someone converting to something else. Rel;ining, if you can find someone to do it (which isn't that hard, actually) will be a touch expensive (still way less than going the disc brake conversion route, though). A year or so ago, I paid about $100/shoe to get them relined. Seeing as how the ones I had relined were the ones the factory put on (my truck has less than 60k miles on it), so I figure this set will last a good 70 years or more ... I've also, in the mean time, have come up with several sets of very usable used shoes and drums. Keep your ear to the rail and you may find what you need.

I'm with Jerry, though, in wondering if the OP understands that he doesn't actually *need* to upgrade to disc brakes. Spending the time, effort and expense to do that because he *wants* to is one thing. Doing it because he thinks he *needs* to is entirely another. It's a unnecessary upgrade (from a "Need" perspective) much like IFS, Power Steering, etc. etc.

I run my '49 3804 routinely at speeds in excess of 55 to 60 mph (with the 4.10 rear axle gearing upgrade and the 261 engine) and I can exceed 70 mph. I've cruised on the Interstate. Yes, panic braking is not without it's concerns, but I would like to think I am a good, defensive driver who tries to see those incidents before they get to that point. And BTW, I *am* a professional driver with a Class A CDL. All that to illustrate that I am not just talking out of my sphincter ... I think I am speaking on this subject with a modicum of authority.

Would discs work better in panic braking situations? Of course. But how often, when driving our antiques, do we find ourselves in those situations? Isn't it better to avoid them in the first place (as best we can)? I drive in traffic, too. I understand the limitations of my vehicle and I am ok with people behind me, people passing me and people cutting me off. I expect all that. If I see a deer on the side of the road, I slow and expect the rest of the herd to leap out at any second. If you can't drive defensively, you probably ought to find a different hobby.

And before the noisy mob of the established "experts" want to shut down my opinion (or Jerry's, for that matter) for questioning the primacy of their view --, just remember a couple of salient facts:

1. We are only asking the question to open the OP's mind to alternatives he might not thought existed -- i.e., that "Need" and "want" are two different things and do not always coexist. Spare tires, for example...

2. Just because my opinion differs from yours doesn't make either of us wrong. Some of you need to have your minds opened.

John

A little bit of research on Ebay will turn up massive quantities of original equipment brake linings, rivets, and even some specialty drill bit/counterbore tools to make uniform depth holes for the rivets if you opt to buy generic brake lining material on a roll and drill it to fit your brake shoes. I know of at least one one bolter with a professional-quality brake lining riveting machine, one that probably hasn't been used in a few decades! It's not that hard to install brake linings (and clutch facings) with a ball peen hammer and a punch, though!
Jerry

I just completed a power 4 wheel disc brake conversion on my '50 GMC 250 1 ton truck and highly, highly recommend it.

Some of the opposition is likely from the crowd that's not going to come off the hip for the $1000 needed for the conversion, outside of that its a no-brainer - if the ability to quickly stop your truck is a priority. With all the talk around installing 14 bolt rear ends, LS engines, etc you'd think it would be even more popular.

My setup: 14 bolt C&C rear end, 76-78 Eldorado disc calipers (for parking brake) and rotors from 79-87 C20 truck, caliper brackets are available from several vendors, mine came from East Coast Gear Supply, Louisburg, NC.

Front Disc calipers and rotors from 79-87 C20 truck, mounted using brackets from TSM Manufacturing. https://www.tsmmfg.net/ - can't recommend these guys enough. They have a top quality product and offer great support.

Brake Booster, MC, proportioning valve, with bracket - Performance Parts on Line beat Tuckers price for the same part and its a direct bolt on. https://www.performanceonline.com/1947-55-CHEVY-GMC-TRUCK-POWER-BRAKE-BOOSTER-KIT/

I also installed the remote MC reservoir from POL as a convenience.

The rest of the truck is pretty stock with 261 engine with a few modern upgrades such as; PCV, electronic ignition, modern oil filtration.

Trans is a Saginaw 2 bar with Patrick's shift locator kit.

The Performance On Line kit is listed for a 3100, I notice. I suppose that it would work for 3800 trucks if the master cyl size was right but it certainly wouldn't be a bolt-on-and-forget-it. There would be math involved. Also I wonder if the small diameter vacuum chamber would provide enough boost. I went to a 2-ton hydrovac after towing a 1500lb trailer with 2,500lb. camper aboard through Vancouver B.C. rush-hour traffic. My right knee was pretty sore. My typical gross is ~9,000lb nowadays so I'm not anxious to give up any boost. But my front drums are worn so I need to do something. New pickups are about 50-60 grand if you get one with a similar payload and CGVWR so there's some incentive to work on the one I've got.

The kit is a bolt on and my preference was to keep the MC under the floorboard and maintain the stock appearance as much as possible, while benefiting from the boost provided by the Corvette MC.

I agree, if your still running your 1T at capacity, then a firewall mounted MC might make sense. For casual driving, the kit referenced above is more than adequate.

I upgraded to a C20 MC on my 72 K5 and noticed much improved braking, clearance issues don't allow that a large a MC under my '50 1T

Again, if the informed "want" is to upgrade to corvette MC's and disc brakes and all that, by all means go for it!

But FWIW, I ran my errands today in mid to heavy traffic on a 4-lane State highway with my '49 1-ton, 261, SM420 tranny, 17-inch tubed bias ply tires and *original* Huck Brakes and guess what? Believe it or not, I'm still alive. Imagine that. Not only that, but I can't wait to do it again. Cheated death once again

Did I mention before that I am a professional driver accustomed to dealing with stupid drivers of 4-wheeled vehicles? Maybe that's relevant, maybe it isn't ...

Thanks for the input, I will definitely check it out. Thanks again Buckkoo.