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Joined: Mar 2020
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Hi all,

I am trying to remove my engine. I've disconnected the ball collar and slid it back. The U joint has no cap screws holding the u joint to the front trunion. I'm not sure how to disconnect the U joint so I can remove the engine and tranny at the same time.

any help would be greatly appreciated.
Attachments
U joint.jpg (201.37 KB, 291 downloads)

Joined: May 2015
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,150
The rear yoke of the u-joint should slide off the driveshaft. It does even with the u-joint that can be unbolted from the front yoke. You should be able to just pull the engine/tranny forward.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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'Bolter
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i have the torque tube supported with the crossmember which i removed then slid back. Do I need to jack up the frame at the back of the truck to remove pressure? I think I read that a while back but I'm not sure. It doesn't seem to be budging.

Joined: May 2015
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,150
I disconnected the u-joint on mine (it had bolts). But with the truck sitting on the springs in the back, it would tend to bind. You might be able to jack up the frame and remove that bind.
[on edit] Actually, since you have the torque tube blocked up, there shouldn't be a need to jack up the frame. Maybe lift the engine/tranny a bit and pry it forward. The splines may just be bound up just a bit from wear.

Last edited by klhansen; 10/23/2020 10:37 PM.

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jan 2010
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D
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Is your truck a 1/2 ton?

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'Bolter
'Bolter
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thank you very much Kevin. I'll tackle it tomorrow and see if I can break it loose.

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'Bolter
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Kevin, I checked out your 3100 pics. Awesome project. I'm dealing with much the same. This is my first project. I'm a newbie to car work. Thank you for the help.

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'Bolter
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Dad, yes, truck is 1/2 ton.

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'Bolter
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I've been putting some significant prying force on that U joint and it is not budging.

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Your ujoint looks nothing like the one on my 3100

Mine had lock tabs I had to bend back, dont see that on yours

Maybe clean it up a bit, see if there is a keeper
Attachments
6A5C64CD-0484-473C-8AAF-1B464E2EB72F.jpeg (199.95 KB, 209 downloads)

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Alright, I was able to pull the engine. Thank goodness I was doing that anyway. The back half of the universal joint slid off the torque tube. Turns out the front portion is bolted to the transmission through the center of the U bolt assembly. It came off easily with a 3/4" socket. Apparently there is no way to pull the transmission or replace the clutch without pulling either the engine or rear end. That's crazy. I have to be missing something. Will post pics after my phone recharges.

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'Bolter
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That U joint comes apart by pulling the small wire rings, then the bushings pull out.
That joint was never used on 1/2 tons originally.


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J
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Originally Posted by Pre '68 Dave
That U joint comes apart by pulling the small wire rings, then the bushings pull out.
That joint was never used on 1/2 tons originally.

I agree with Pre '68 Dave, that type of u-joint was never used on 1/2 tons originally.
I don't think you can get that type of u-joint to come apart while its still bolted to the tranny's main output shaft.
There doesn't look like there is enough room to slide the bearings over enough to remove them.The rear tranny housing is in the way.

The original 1/2 ton used cap screws with lock plates.
illustration

That type of u-joint I think was used in 3/4 ton truck. Which has a partial enclosed torque tube and a open drive shaft.
Also, the 3/4 ton truck used a different (shorter) rear yoke.

1950 Shop manual (1/2 ton U-Joint)

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The transmissions that used that type of joint had special indents in the case to clear the trunnions during disassemble and assembly. See pic.
Attachments


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Pre '68 Dave what type of tranny & year/s was that housing used on ?
I never seen a rear housing that looks like that.

MikeA777 are you sure your truck is a 1/2 ton ?
Post a picture of the entire drive line.

Picture of 4 speed tranny with u-joint attached.
The 4 speed tranny was used in a 1950 3/4 ton truck.
The only way to separate the u-joint is to remove, the whole u-joint assembly from the tranny by
running a socket through the center of the yokes and unbolting the front yoke from the tranny's main output shaft.

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'Bolter
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I am not certain the truck is a 1/2 ton. That's what the title says but the plate on the door jamb is not original. Here are some pics.

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'Bolter
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Here are the pics
Attachments
Driveline front.jpg (501.17 KB, 167 downloads)
Driveline rear.jpg (384.48 KB, 172 downloads)
U joint 2.jpg (204.4 KB, 174 downloads)
Tranny front.jpg (161.87 KB, 169 downloads)
Tranny back.jpg (141.27 KB, 161 downloads)

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'Bolter
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Jorb,
I believe that joint style was used on 1940-47 3/4 ton trucks.


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'Bolter
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Mike, is your truck a 1947?


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'Bolter
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Pre '68 Dave. Truck is titled as a 1950 but i'm not confident that is accurate. Maybe someone grabbed an old transmission and put it in the truck.

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'Bolter
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My two challenges are
1) find a U joint
2) find the back piece of transmission casing matching what Pre '68 Dave has shown in his picture above. Otherwise I have to pull the engine or rear end to work on the clutch/tranny.

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'Bolter
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Mike, does your transmission have a reverse lockout lever on the shifter?


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'Bolter
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Dave, the shifter has no reverse lockout lever. It's a straight stick coming out of the top.

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My best guess is someone put a 1948 to 1953 3/4 ton 4 speed tranny in your truck.
The reason I say that is because the rear yoke is shorter, which is used in the 3/4 ton partial torque tube/open driveline. 2nd photo

The 1st attached photo is the type of u-joint you need.
Note the longer rear yoke.
The front yoke is hard to find.
Attachments
3600 front drive shaft.jpg (97.62 KB, 122 downloads)

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'Bolter
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Jorb, looks like you're right on a few points. I need a different u-joint assembly and the part in your illustration is nowhere to be found at the moment. If someone comes across this assembly, I would love to know about it. The transmission casing Dave shows earlier in the post would also be most welcome.

Refusing to send the truck to the junk yard, I'm going to try to get an alternate u-joint to work. Hope I don't need to work on the clutch before I find a solution.

A million thanks to all who responded. I'm an absolute newbie, desperate to put this beautiful old truck back on the road.

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Did the truck run when you bought it?

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'Bolter
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DAD, Truck did not run. I have a replacement 235 I'm putting in it

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'Bolter
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Welding holes, stripping rust, ordering tons of parts, getting nervous.
Attachments
Truck Frame.jpg (501.17 KB, 92 downloads)

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'Bolter
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I don’t believe there was a extension housing with the cutouts made for the SM420 transmission which you have.


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Looks good,

It would of been nice to know if that driveline was operable, so you could have an idea what needs to be replaced


Looking at the pic of your yoke it looks that there is a keeper on top?


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