The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Bolt on Disc Brake Conversion Kit for 1953 3600

While searching the site, I found a link to a disc brake conversion kit for the 1955-1959 3/4 ton trucks. I also read on this site the 1953 and 1954 3600s use the same steering knuckles as the 1955-1959 trucks. I emailed the seller and asked if his kit would work on my 1953 3600. He replied: "This will work on a 53. You will have to drill out the holes on the spindle from 7/16-1/2 inch."

Does anyone have any experience with this kit? It appears to use REAR rotors from a 2000-2006 Chevy 2500 and calipers from a 1976- 1986 K20.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-1956-1957-1958-1959-Chevrolet-Truck-8-lug-front-disc-brake-conversion/350973126802?hash=item51b7a0e892:g:GDgAAOSw~QRZ~4WB

I would ask him if he would sell just the brackets. The other parts could be sourced from your Flaps with lifetime warranty's.

I had to google that one.

Friendly Local Auto Parts Store

It's been more than a week since my original post and I didn't get many replies. I'll ask a different question:

Has anyone converted their 3600 to disc brakes?

What parts did you use for the conversion?

For a long time, there were no conversion kits available for 3/4 ton trucks.. There just was not enough demand for them, since the original equipment drum brakes were very adequate for stopping them, given that most stovebolters don't use their trucks to haul the maximum gross weight loads the trucks were designed to carry. The vendor has explained what's necessary to make his kit work with your truck. There are several other modifications necessary for a disc brake conversion to function properly- - - -changing to a power boosted master cylinder the right size, running new fluid lines, and possibly installing a proportioning valve to prevent rear wheel lockup when running without a load in the bed. If enlarging a couple of holes in the spindles and steering arms is a challenge, maybe you need a little help from someone with a bit more experience at making modifications to a system where a mistake can be deadly dangerous. Disc brake conversions might be the current fad, but a good rebuild of the original system is a lot simpler, less expensive, and potentially a much safer choice.
Jerry

Jerry,
Thanks for the reply and the warnings.

Enlarging the holes isn't a challenge. I believe I have the skill and experience and I'm sure I have the equipment to handle that rudimentary task. I'm am aware of the hydraulic system upgrades that are associated with a disc brake conversion on one of these trucks. The calculations for the hydraulics are not a problem and neither is bending tubing. I have a shop full of equipment and have been wrenching and fabricating on cars, trucks, jeeps, etc. for over 40 years including braking and steering systems.

I have posted this query because I'm trying to understand the options that are available. I'm considering building my own system. I was working down that path before I discovered the "kit" I linked in my first post.

My last question to this forum about a power steering conversion using a Toyota box for my 3600 morphed into a dissertation about insurance. I'm hoping this thread won't be similar. Fortunately for me, rfs56trk provided the information I needed about the power steering conversion via instant messaging and email.

Once a disc and caliper is chosen, it's mostly a matter of bracketing the caliper to something rigid enough to carry the torque when the brakes are applied. Fortunately, the bolt holes for the drum brake backing plate are right there to work with. When I used to fabricate brake systems from scratch on circle track race cars, I would use air pressure to clamp the caliper onto the rotor where I wanted it to fit, and then fabricate brackets to mount the caliper firmly to the spindle from appropriate thickness steel plate. Most calipers need to be able to slide side to side to self-center and to accommodate brake pad wear, so be sure to check clearances closely to avoid interference as the caliper moves in and out. A plasma cutter and some sheet metal templates makes the fabrication job a lot easier! Good luck!
Jerry

Jerry,
Thanks for the tip on using compressed air to clamp the caliper on the disc.

Ron,
Thanks for the link.